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2016 Silverado , warped rotors?


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Have a 2016 Silverado, with only 10k miles . Seems like my rotors are warped already. Is this common?

Only drive to and from work mostly and moderate stop and go, No towing or any heavy loads.

So, do i get my stock rotors resurfaced or say screw it and get the Powerstop brake kit upgrade, with new Pads and Slotted rotors?

 

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I wouldn't turn the rotors, I would get a new set.  Drilled/slotted rotors aren't really better, except that they look cool.  I've had good luck with Raybestos rotors, no slots, just the Advanced Technology ones.

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1 hour ago, Dr Awesome said:

I wouldn't turn the rotors, I would get a new set.  Drilled/slotted rotors aren't really better, except that they look cool.  I've had good luck with Raybestos rotors, no slots, just the Advanced Technology ones.

Thanks for the tip to get the Raybestos rotors . Would I have to get new brake pads as well? The current ones seem like new...

 

I guess I'll start with swapping the front rotors then go from there.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 5/25/2018 at 5:33 PM, jamoka3 said:

Have a 2016 Silverado, with only 10k miles . Seems like my rotors are warped already. Is this common?

Only drive to and from work mostly and moderate stop and go, No towing or any heavy loads.

So, do i get my stock rotors resurfaced or say screw it and get the Powerstop brake kit upgrade, with new Pads and Slotted rotors?

 

I just replaced rotors and pads on mine, It seemed as both inside break pads on the front were dragging almost non-stop causing the brakes to wear uneven and trash rotors from the heat. I've seen some people simply grind the edges (barely) so they slide a little better in the slots. Be careful not to take to much as you will get a loud rattling sound from the pads bouncing. Hope this helps to prevent it from happening again soon.

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On 5/25/2018 at 11:55 PM, jamoka3 said:

Thanks for the tip to get the Raybestos rotors . Would I have to get new brake pads as well? The current ones seem like new...

 

I guess I'll start with swapping the front rotors then go from there.

 

Might be too late, but I would have gotten new pads for sure.  There is a reason your rotors warped and it could be because the pads were not seating right and, with the new rotors or after the brake job, could do the same thing.  You want new pads and you want to bed them by doing a few 30-5mph brakes and then a few hard 60-5mph brakes.  5mph is reference, as long as you don't stop, it should be fine.  It's just a way to make sure they are braking on the entire surface and eliminate any high spots without damaging anything.

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On 5/25/2018 at 11:24 PM, Dr Awesome said:

I wouldn't turn the rotors, I would get a new set.  Drilled/slotted rotors aren't really better, except that they look cool.  I've had good luck with Raybestos rotors, no slots, just the Advanced Technology ones.

Slotted rotors are intended to vent gasses that build up under the pad due to heat during use.  Modern pads though, have eliminated much of the gas build up problems.  Slotted, or cross drilled rotors are really more for looks these days, but if you really want them, be prepared to replace your pads more often.  The slot edges, even if rounded, will chew your pads quicker.  Don't even bother with cross drilled rotors.  They are prone to cracking around the holes.  They're even illegal on many racing circuits these days because of that.

 

The reasons for having slots and holes dates a ways back before modern technology fixed the shortcomings that drilling and slotting was designed to fix.

 

And yes, if you get new rotors, get new pads. 

Edited by EDL
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