Jump to content

Quad 8" Sub Box, is it possible?


Recommended Posts

Posted

I found these subs: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_5751P2D212/Rockford-Fosgate-P2D2-12.html?search=Rockford_Fosgate_P2D2-12&skipvs=T

 

And this box: http://ground-shaker.com/index.php?option=com_hikashop&ctrl=product&task=show&cid=116&name=gs-jchvp212b-black-12-dual-ported-sub-box-fits-chevy-silverado-gmc-sierra-ext-double-cab-2007-2017&Itemid=104&lang=en

 

Its not quite going to get the air volume the speakers want, for a ported box they want 1.79 cubic feet, the box has 1.25 cubic feet, and since there's two subs, i believe that 1.79 should be doubled, so i'm not sure how that would affect the sound? I'm not sure what amp to use. I havent been able to find a decent one. I'm not buying anything until i'm sure, i'm still open to smaller speakers but i do want a big thunderous boom that i can increase and reduce as needed. I want more bass than i need.

Posted
8 hours ago, PMad said:

I found these subs: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_5751P2D212/Rockford-Fosgate-P2D2-12.html?search=Rockford_Fosgate_P2D2-12&skipvs=T

 

And this box: http://ground-shaker.com/index.php?option=com_hikashop&ctrl=product&task=show&cid=116&name=gs-jchvp212b-black-12-dual-ported-sub-box-fits-chevy-silverado-gmc-sierra-ext-double-cab-2007-2017&Itemid=104&lang=en

 

Its not quite going to get the air volume the speakers want, for a ported box they want 1.79 cubic feet, the box has 1.25 cubic feet, and since there's two subs, i believe that 1.79 should be doubled, so i'm not sure how that would affect the sound? I'm not sure what amp to use. I havent been able to find a decent one. I'm not buying anything until i'm sure, i'm still open to smaller speakers but i do want a big thunderous boom that i can increase and reduce as needed. I want more bass than i need.

Those will not give you a "thunderous boom".  Anything you out in that space will not give you a thunderous boom.  

 

Your best bet is these which actuslly afe prerty nice for being so small but you are very limited. 

 

http://ddaudio.com/products/subwoofers/redline-series/sl-2/

Posted
On 6/2/2018 at 2:46 AM, PMad said:

I found these subs: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_5751P2D212/Rockford-Fosgate-P2D2-12.html?search=Rockford_Fosgate_P2D2-12&skipvs=T

 

And this box: http://ground-shaker.com/index.php?option=com_hikashop&ctrl=product&task=show&cid=116&name=gs-jchvp212b-black-12-dual-ported-sub-box-fits-chevy-silverado-gmc-sierra-ext-double-cab-2007-2017&Itemid=104&lang=en

 

Its not quite going to get the air volume the speakers want, for a ported box they want 1.79 cubic feet, the box has 1.25 cubic feet, and since there's two subs, i believe that 1.79 should be doubled, so i'm not sure how that would affect the sound? I'm not sure what amp to use. I havent been able to find a decent one. I'm not buying anything until i'm sure, i'm still open to smaller speakers but i do want a big thunderous boom that i can increase and reduce as needed. I want more bass than i need.

Yeah 1.25 cf for (2) 12’s is ridiculously small. It will work, but it won’t be nearly as loud as a bigger enclosure. It will be tight and punchy. I suppose you don’t have much choice though. I’d also bet those thin woofers he posted are super expensive. 

 

Keep in mind any time you install 2 12’s inside the actual cabin, it’s going to be pretty f-ing loud even with a less than ideal enclosure

 

For subs I always recommend single channel D class. You could get (2) high quality 1x100w amps and run them at 1ohm each. Which if it’s a quality amp will be about 350-400watts rms each.

Posted
7 hours ago, truckguy82 said:

Yeah 1.25 cf for (2) 12’s is ridiculously small. It will work, but it won’t be nearly as loud as a bigger enclosure. It will be tight and punchy. I suppose you don’t have much choice though. I’d also bet those thin woofers he posted are super expensive. 

 

Keep in mind any time you install 2 12’s inside the actual cabin, it’s going to be pretty f-ing loud even with a less than ideal enclosure

 

For subs I always recommend single channel D class. You could get (2) high quality 1x100w amps and run them at 1ohm each. Which if it’s a quality amp will be about 350-400watts rms each.

That's way to small even sealed. You have to take in account the displacment of the sub as well 

Posted

Im trying to build a pretty decent setup, something that thumps pretty well. I dont necessarily need something that will put your heart into afib but something thats gonna make people say "Dayum!"

 

There's very little room, so because of the available cf, should i drop to 10's? Would that create better sound than the 12's because of the CF?

 

The DD Audio SL series that Nasty mentioned, those are $300-500 each, from what i was seeing anyway. Thats almost my budget for the whole system haha. I'm looking around $100-$150 per speaker, up to $200 for the box, then based on what i buy, $100-$200 for the amp.

 

 

Posted
33 minutes ago, PMad said:

Im trying to build a pretty decent setup, something that thumps pretty well. I dont necessarily need something that will put your heart into afib but something thats gonna make people say "Dayum!"

 

There's very little room, so because of the available cf, should i drop to 10's? Would that create better sound than the 12's because of the CF?

 

The DD Audio SL series that Nasty mentioned, those are $300-500 each, from what i was seeing anyway. Thats almost my budget for the whole system haha. I'm looking around $100-$150 per speaker, up to $200 for the box, then based on what i buy, $100-$200 for the amp.

 

 

With audio you get what you pay for      I am a little biased and my standards are super high    but 500 bucks for a whole system. Wont happen for anything even decent     

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is NOT impact damage nor neglect. There were previous class action lawsuits because of such paint preparation st GM manufacturing plant. Not just the Cherry Red Color. This paint is applied in three processes to obtain the desired color.  The manufacturer will cover for 36 months or 36k miles only. That rust is actually corrosion because of the paint process failure. Corrosion is covered for 100,100 miles or a certain months. However their corrosion doesn't include this type. Go figure. Clearly manufacturer knew from previous paint issues. This started 3 weeks ago out of the blue.  
    • Is it time to put a piece of tape over the CEL? 
    • consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...