Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Just did this on my 6.0 Double cab... love the look of extra lights.  I just tapped into the rear trailer wiring at my plug that goes into the box for the Deck lights.. 

 

truck%20lights%202_zpsly9n8vtm.jpg

Posted
23 hours ago, Bhurt said:

Just did this on my 6.0 Double cab... love the look of extra lights.  I just tapped into the rear trailer wiring at my plug that goes into the box for the Deck lights.. 

 

truck%20lights%202_zpsly9n8vtm.jpg

Look's Good - Deck Lights Info ???? Thank you

Posted
3 hours ago, slj2008 said:

Look's Good - Deck Lights Info ???? Thank you

they are the same 3/4" led marker lights. 

 

IMG_1666_zpschdhauv7.jpg

Posted
51 minutes ago, Bhurt said:

they are the same 3/4" led marker lights. 

 

IMG_1666_zpschdhauv7.jpg

Thank You -  Now I see what there mounted to day light photo . Must be PLAY time.

Posted

i would love to do this, but with white LED's that dimmed on and off upon opening the door, remote starting the truck, or hitting unlock on the key fob...

something i've always wanted to do

Posted
26 minutes ago, jerseytaylor said:

i would love to do this, but with white LED's that dimmed on and off upon opening the door, remote starting the truck, or hitting unlock on the key fob...

something i've always wanted to do

I think if you tapped into your interior light circuit you would have that function, minus being on with the remote start.  

Posted

At night time it works with the unlock function and the remote start function Since it’s tied into the parking/marker light...So anytime the parking lights are on so are they. 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
On 21/10/2018 at 8:23 AM, EXSlider400 said:

No resistors. I showed in the pics where I tapped into the harness under the frame on drivers side (purple wire with grey). I also added in one behind the new lower grill I installed when I switched out the main grill. 

D0A9C5C5-E374-47B0-B160-BBC1162F0F81.jpeg

Here is a pic but need to take one of whole truck at night and I will do later. 

D520E2F4-F96D-4D73-A1F6-81F0F5B09C9B.jpeg

  • 2 years later...
Posted

EXSlider400.  I love the look of those lights on running board.  What is the light you used? brand/ part # etc.  Have they held up okay?  Thanks

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)
On 3/7/2021 at 9:40 AM, BG2500 said:
Edited by EXSlider400
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • .30” of rain all month and it’s been weeks since that. “Mowed” our two properties today for the first time since July 2nd. It only took 30 minutes because all I had to do was level some weeds and saplings in a few problem areas. Everything else is dead.
    • Dealer reported a failed shifter module assembly so the whole shifter is getting replaced. Yet another premature repair… up to $12,000+ in extended warranty payout in only 5 years and 80,000 miles! 
    • According to the dealer it’s an internal leak/failure of the compressor.  Again, another failure that shouldn’t happen at only 5 years and 80k miles.  For some reason the compressors must be hard to come by right now, because the truck’s been at the dealer almost a week and they just located a compressor at another dealer several states away today.  We’ll see if this fixes the issue.  
    • I'm not sure if this should be a reply on this thread or a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - ACDelco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles. When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so i did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance.
    • I wasn’t commenting on your post. Certainly wasn’t arguing. I was making an observation on my long term experience with supposedly proper length of driving for proper heat cycles. Works for me. Although I have seen water or vapor come out of exhaust when vehicles weren’t run very long and shut off. It’s very humid in the morning. Then hot and humid. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...