Jump to content

Stereo (again) unresponsive RAP


Recommended Posts

Posted

So its been a year without a stereo, and I have finally found a door switch. Someone mentioned in the thread I posted in May of last year, that it was the door strike switch. Well hours and hours searching the end of the internet and $210 later, I finally found one, had it delivered today, and I got it installed tonight. Was excited was finally going to have a stereo again, and not have to pull the fuse anymore.

 

Any one want to take a wild guess as to what happened with the stereo? That's right--it's STILL not turning off. I have disconnected the battery and waited 10-15 minutes (both positive and negative leads). Had all doors closed, put fuse for stereo back into fuse panel, connected battery, and on came the stereo. Keys were in my back pocket.

 

Formulabruce suggested checking the accessory wiring to the stereo (yellow), and maybe that is the issue, and wiring it up to something that quits when the key is shut off (that is looking more and more of an option at this point).  Davester suggested it was a third party issue (maybe that wiring harness Crutchfield supplied with the Sony Double Din DVD player). The one thing I do not understand, is why would it just randomly start doing it in 2016/7, when the stereo was installed in 2005, and never had a problem.

 

Regardless, I digress. So RAP is not working. The dome light does come on when the door is opened, and shuts off 20-30 seconds after it is closed. Stereo will not shut off. Dome light with passenger door 20-30 seconds-stereo wont shut off, dome with rear doors-almost immediately-stereo wont shut off. I suppose tomorrow I will tear the dash apart (again) and look for something-anything.

 

I bought the door switch from gmpartsdirect.com

https://www.gmpartsdirect.co/oem-parts/gm-latch-15110643

Posted

Given that the dome lights come on & off proper with the doors, that indicates the BCM is correctly getting and processing the doors opening/closing, I would look at the crutchfield-supplied wiring harness, as that harness should/will have some circuitry to get the RAP signal from the serial bus and then turn on/off power to the radio based on that (there's also be a separate always-on power supply to the radio for the clock and to keep radio settings).  After 10 years, it's possible something has failed in that circuitry.

Posted

There is a timer in the gauge cluster which has had issues with the lead replacement solder used similar to the light bulb on the circuit board problems.

 Getting a rebuilt cluster solved a few problems on my friends truck recently

 Good luck!

Posted

Thanks Guys-again.

 

I replaced the cluster a few years ago, with a rebuild from Rockauto. I have noticed there maybe another bulb out in the upper right corner, however, everything else on the cluster works fine. Bruce, you say there is a timer on the cluster, I am curious if it affects RAP in anyway.

Posted

Any chance of contacting Crutchfield and ask them?  Maybe they might know of an issue since the harness came from them.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No, not yet. Hoping I'll have something a little more definitive in the next day or 2. They seemed to be very confident they can order it. I do have some understanding of the whole allocations and restraints stuff so we'll see.   I think this is what I'm looking for.   3000 ORDER ACCEPTED BY PRODUCTION CONTROL
    • Then you haven't read your book. It also says check every 400 miles.   If you need to add multiple quarts in that distance then reading the stick isn't the issue. Put the two together and it will make sense. Read it all.     
    • Following up on my topic, I put an O2 sensor in it which seems to have got rid of all the b2s1 codes (I ended up having multiple codes). Next I’ll try to figure out the P0011 but I might focus on exhaust manifolds first, they’re getting pretty rusty. I’m hoping this thread will help someone in the future.
    • I’m going off the instructions.
    • My expectations are a bit higher.    No faded paint or dry rotted plastic/rubber. I use a dressing and a ceramic sealant. No hazy headlights.  No door dings. Small dent in the front bumper. All rock chips repaired. No brush scratches. No windshield chips. No fender benders. Limit damage due to a proactive plan the included ceramics and PPF and prompt attention to any exterior issue. NO RUST. Stays out of the salt and had the rear wheel wells Line-X coated as well as the bed which has a bed rubber and has been under cover since before I bought it. Washed and detailed regularly. Rex chewed up the tow button, got whacked and the button replaced the same week. He's leaned his lesson. If I can train a dog the kids are easier.    All suspension is original save the King Shocks I installed very early on. 50 years ago dad told me a good shock will keep the screws in the dash tight and the front end mint. He was right. Everything within new spec yet, tight and aligned well several times. Coolant system is OEM save the modifications I made early on. Not a single leak anywhere on this machine. (Did repair an intake leak on #4 during the HPFP replacement.) The injectors I replaced didn't need to be. They checked out great. One of those, while I'm in there with the manifold off and the fuel rail apart things.  Not a stain or abrasion one to the upholstery. Have kept is covered since new. Never had a carpet, it's a work truck but the carpet squared I laid on the floor have keep the factory rubber liner MINT. Ceramic wind tint helps preserve the interior.    Original BRAKES with 60%+ left of the pads and rotors mic excellent. We just did a full preventative brake service. Disassembly, clean inspect including measurements, lube, Dot 4 power flush including ABS system.    OEM battery. OEM vacuum pump. In fact the only things not OEM are a pinion seal the high side pump and injectors and a small plastic shield around the starter. All hoses/belts etc.. are still in service and doing well. Original tires lasted 125K and had I known some additional details would have made it to 150K with legal tread. (Date out is six years, not 5 and Continental says they are good for 10 so I pulled the trigger to early)   I never let my children or grandchildren run the show. Feet on the floor and hands in your lap. Dog gets a pass.    A truck is a machine the gives you back whatever your willing to put into it. Same as a computer or a butter knife. I use a shovel but I scrap it, hose it off and oil it when I'm done with it. My original spade I've had 60 years.      Set the bar higher...you spend less money. No, before you ask, I have spent a fraction of the cost of a new truck in my entire maintenance program including disposables, filters/fluids etc.     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...