Leveling kit and steering rack problems

[danb303]

I'm new to the forum and have read several posts on the issues with the steering rack after a leveling kit has been installed.

I'm at about 42k miles and want level when I replace the tires. i don't want to have to deal with replacing the rack. Has anyone nailed down the actual cause of the rack issues?

I have noticed that the instructions on most of the leveling kits tell you to unplug the rack before you start. Any chance the failures are coming from those who choose to skip that step in the process?

 

thanks

[wforrest08]

Everything I’ve read about unplugging the rack says NOT to do it because the connector is apparently a one time use design? There’s more than several reports of trucks not leveled or lifted with the rack noise as well as thousands of 6+ inch lifted trucks with 24”+ wheels that apparently don’t have the noise.  If your just looking at making the truck sit level you can always bring the rear down instead of the front up which won’t change the front end geometry if your that concerned about it. Just like most of the issues you’ll read about on here what percentage of trucks is it and does the risk out weigh the reward? 

[Silverado-Hareek]

I've posted about this in a few threads, but the short version of my situation is:

 

1)  Truck had no steering issues (that I recall) when it was stock

2)  I had bilstein 5100 leveling shocks installed.  imediately I noticed the steering was tighter and there was a popping noise and feeling in the steering wheel when turning at low speeds.

3)  I had an alignment done to correct for the level.  No change to the tight steering and popping noise.

4)  I had new 33" tires installed and immediately the steering had loosened back up and the popping noise/feeling was gone.

 

The only solution I can come up with is the level originally put the tierods on a weird angle that caused the steering to bind up some, and then the bigger tires somehow corrected the angle.

Edited July 24, 2018 by Silverado-Hareek

[danb303]

Is taking the battery cable off an option?

 

[Silverado-Hareek]

5 minutes ago, danb303 said:

Is taking the battery cable off an option?

 

I think you're supposed to do that before doing any work so that you can't damage the steering system.  I'm not sure if my mechanic did that or not when he installed the shocks, but I never did it following the discovery the popping steering.

[dcarl]

I didn't when I installed my Zone 2" and never noticed any problems.

As far as cables go, I had to remove a ground cable when i installed a Zone Body Lift and add an extension they provided in the kit.

Otherwise no problems at all.

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[danb303]

1 hour ago, Silverado-Hareek said:

I think you're supposed to do that before doing any work so that you can't damage the steering system.  I'm not sure if my mechanic did that or not when he installed the shocks, but I never did it following the discovery the popping steering.

Instructions on the Rough Country kit

3. On models with electric power steering, remove the 6 bolts holding the factory skid plate using a 15mm socket. Unplug the three connectors going to the electric power steering. See Photo 1.

[Silverado-Hareek]

11 minutes ago, danb303 said:

Instructions on the Rough Country kit

3. On models with electric power steering, remove the 6 bolts holding the factory skid plate using a 15mm socket. Unplug the three connectors going to the electric power steering. See Photo 1.

Yeah I remember reading that.  You can either disconnect the battery or unplug the wires going to the steering.  The ultimate goal being to cut power to the steering system while working on the suspension.  I think the issue is if the steering system is moved during the install, it can force the electric power steering motor to move and act like a generator and generate an electric current that could damage something.  It's not likely, but they're trying to eliminate possible issues.  As you can see most guys around here are saying they didn't do it either because they didn't know or didn't care but ultimately did not have a problem.

[C_Blair78]

First time posting guys, been searching for answers so I’ll give you the run down. Installed a Zone leveling kit on my 2016 Silverado. After 40,000 miles I had a popping in the steering and they replaced the intermediate shaft, did not fix. Ended up replacing the steering rack, dealer discovered the level kit and immediately blamed it on me and the kit. Fixed it for 20k more miles and last week I started noticing a clunking and steering noise. Took the level kit off and poof noise is gone. Problem is that I HATE the raked look of the truck. I mean I despise it lol. I was looking to go with a bigger tire but I want the raked look gone and I don’t know what else I can do. This is the only issue I have had with the truck. Dealer said they only seen a couple with the level kit issues but after browsing here it’s a little more evident I’m not the only one having an issue. Just looking for advice on what to do and what size tire I can run on no mods with a lift or is there an alternative. Thanks In advance 

Blair 

[Silveradoh]

First time posting guys, been searching for answers so I’ll give you the run down. Installed a Zone leveling kit on my 2016 Silverado. After 40,000 miles I had a popping in the steering and they replaced the intermediate shaft, did not fix. Ended up replacing the steering rack, dealer discovered the level kit and immediately blamed it on me and the kit. Fixed it for 20k more miles and last week I started noticing a clunking and steering noise. Took the level kit off and poof noise is gone. Problem is that I HATE the raked look of the truck. I mean I despise it lol. I was looking to go with a bigger tire but I want the raked look gone and I don’t know what else I can do. This is the only issue I have had with the truck. Dealer said they only seen a couple with the level kit issues but after browsing here it’s a little more evident I’m not the only one having an issue. Just looking for advice on what to do and what size tire I can run on no mods with a lift or is there an alternative. Thanks In advance 
Blair 

Maybe try leveling with bilstein 5100s instead of a spacer? Not sure if that would help, but worst case you could put them back to the lowest setting and get a little better ride than stock. I had a pretty bad click on mine as well (2” RC level), had the dealership look into it and they greased something, can’t remember what, I’ll look later and edit this. It helped a lot, I did notice a little click every once in a while, but it’s vastly improved. Hope this helps a bit.

Bob


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[Silverado-Hareek]

18 hours ago, Silveradoh said:

 

 

Maybe try leveling with bilstein 5100s instead of a spacer? Not sure if that would help, but worst case you could put them back to the lowest setting and get a little better ride than stock. I had a pretty bad click on mine as well (2” RC level), had the dealership look into it and they greased something, can’t remember what, I’ll look later and edit this. It helped a lot, I did notice a little click every once in a while, but it’s vastly improved. Hope this helps a bit.

Bob


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This wont' make a difference.  I have 5100's and have the same popping noise.

 

The popping only occurs when the weather is hotter I've discovered.  I had the popping initially last summer when the shocks were installed, then it went away over the winter, and now it's starting to come back here in the spring as the weather warms up.  I read on this forum that others have discovered the popping to be temperature dependent.  With that being said, I know two other guys with this same issue.  One guy had the popping show up on his stock truck, and then continued after he did a level.  The other guy had his show up after doing a level.  Both have just been driving  with the issue for tens of thousands of miles and have reported no other major issues.  My opinion is to just live with it.  That's what I'm doing.

[C_Blair78]

On 4/22/2019 at 2:45 PM, Silveradoh said:

 

 

Maybe try leveling with bilstein 5100s instead of a spacer? Not sure if that would help, but worst case you could put them back to the lowest setting and get a little better ride than stock. I had a pretty bad click on mine as well (2” RC level), had the dealership look into it and they greased something, can’t remember what, I’ll look later and edit this. It helped a lot, I did notice a little click every once in a while, but it’s vastly improved. Hope this helps a bit.

Bob


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Thanks Bob, based on my experience, they probably greased under the boot where your intermediate shaft bearing is. They tried that with mine too, when it was the steering rack that was faulty. Where’s the best place to look for a good deal on the Bilstein 5100’s? I’m no truck expert so any help is appreciated 

[Silveradoh]

This wont' make a difference.  I have 5100's and have the same popping noise.
 
The popping only occurs when the weather is hotter I've discovered.  I had the popping initially last summer when the shocks were installed, then it went away over the winter, and now it's starting to come back here in the spring as the weather warms up.  I read on this forum that others have discovered the popping to be temperature dependent.  With that being said, I know two other guys with this same issue.  One guy had the popping show up on his stock truck, and then continued after he did a level.  The other guy had his show up after doing a level.  Both have just been driving  with the issue for tens of thousands of miles and have reported no other major issues.  My opinion is to just live with it.  That's what I'm doing.

The temperature part is interesting, I live in FL, so it’s pretty much always warm, no break in the click for me. Thank you for correcting me on the 5100s, I’ve been driving with the issue for probably 15-20k miles and no major issues either, so you’re probably right to just live with it.


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[Silveradoh]

Thanks Bob, based on my experience, they probably greased under the boot where your intermediate shaft bearing is. They tried that with mine too, when it was the steering rack that was faulty. Where’s the best place to look for a good deal on the Bilstein 5100’s? I’m no truck expert so any help is appreciated 

That sounds right, I looked at my service receipt and they didn’t put what they did on there. As far as the 5100s go, Amazon had a pretty decent price when I looked before, and I know there’s a few companies that give deals to the forum members, so I might try searching the forums as well.

Bob


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[Silverado-Hareek]

2 hours ago, C_Blair78 said:

Thanks Bob, based on my experience, they probably greased under the boot where your intermediate shaft bearing is. They tried that with mine too, when it was the steering rack that was faulty. Where’s the best place to look for a good deal on the Bilstein 5100’s? I’m no truck expert so any help is appreciated 

My last 2 sets of Bilsteins were bought from 4 Wheel Parts online.  They've had the best deals when I catch them running a shock sale.

1 hour ago, Silveradoh said:

 

 

The temperature part is interesting, I live in FL, so it’s pretty much always warm, no break in the click for me. Thank you for correcting me on the 5100s, I’ve been driving with the issue for probably 15-20k miles and no major issues either, so you’re probably right to just live with it.


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It's definitely coming from the power steering system.  You can feel the popping if you have someone turn your wheel and you hold on to the tie rod, parked of course.  I don't know for sure that it's not a wear and tear problem, but these other guys I know are still driving with theirs popping and haven't reported any problems.  The steering assembly alone is like $1200 just for the part so I'm definitely going to just keep driving it until i notice something more is wrong.  It's interesting because these trucks get sold from dealers with lifts kits.  And the new 2019 Silverado Trail Boss comes with a 2" lift and the same electric power steering system.  I would guess the worse thing that would happen is that your power steering system would fail but you should still be able to control the vehicle and get it to a shop.   It just would be hard to turn the wheel.