Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Anyone here have issues with STOCK tires/wheels rubbing the UCA?  I was rotating the tires yesterday and noticed what pretty clearly looked to be like tire rub marks on the UCA. This seems odd considering everything is completely stock with no modifications.  Anyone else notice this ever?   This is with a 2017 with the stamped steel control arms.

 

I didn't think to get any pictures but next time I have the wheel off I'll snap a few pics. Not sure what else this could be.

Edited by reardiff
Posted

Do you have 18" or 20" wheels? I have a 1.5" level and it rubs pretty good on the control arms, I didn't pay attention to whether it did before the level.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

Posted
Anyone here have issues with STOCK tires/wheels rubbing the UCA?  I was rotating the tires yesterday and noticed what pretty clearly looked to be like tire rub marks on the UCA. This seems odd considering everything is completely stock with no modifications.  Anyone else notice this ever?   This is with a 2017 with the stamped steel control arms.
 
I didn't think to get any pictures but next time I have the wheel off I'll snap a few pics. Not sure what else this could be.
Johnny01: I had this problem on my 2016 chevy Silverado 1500 after I installed a 2.5" leveling kit. But not before. I ended up installing Borla wheel spacers to solve the issue.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Posted

Stock 20 inch wheels with 275/55/20 stock tires, no level or any other modifications. Just seems really odd being it's 100% bone stock truck. It's been since April since it has been in for an oil change and last time the wheels were off so seems unlikely it could be anything else.   Now I am very hesitant to go up to a 275/60/20 with a 2 inch level if it rubs already I'm guessing it will even then but worse. 

Posted
Stock 20 inch wheels with 275/55/20 stock tires, no level or any other modifications. Just seems really odd being it's 100% bone stock truck. It's been since April since it has been in for an oil change and last time the wheels were off so seems unlikely it could be anything else.   Now I am very hesitant to go up to a 275/60/20 with a 2 inch level if it rubs already I'm guessing it will even then but worse. 
I have r65's on a 2014 sierra 1500 and the 2.5 lift kit. Barley rubs when the wheels are cranked all the way.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Posted
1 hour ago, reardiff said:

Stock 20 inch wheels with 275/55/20 stock tires, no level or any other modifications. Just seems really odd being it's 100% bone stock truck. It's been since April since it has been in for an oil change and last time the wheels were off so seems unlikely it could be anything else.   Now I am very hesitant to go up to a 275/60/20 with a 2 inch level if it rubs already I'm guessing it will even then but worse. 

I have then same wheels/tires on my 2017.  I installed a RC 2" level and began to experience UCA rubbing at full lock and plus it rode like shat (stiff on the front).  So, I removed the level.  The level kit helped at some kids' sporting events I had to go to, where there's never enough parking, and allowed me to park up on the curb side along with all the other trucks.  However, this is my DD so I just decided out of practicality to put it back and keep it stock for now.  I'm getting great gas mileage and its a comfortable ride.  

 

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Yes, the stock 2018 chevy and gmc models that I have checked (5) have slight rub marks on the UCA and the sway bar. I noticed before I put my level kit. now of course it rubs a bit more. 

Posted

Curious why it would rub more with a level kit, one would think that would make it rub less?   I wonder if replacement UCA's would be any different?

  • 5 months later...
Posted

I went to replace the standard stock tires on my 2018 GMC Sierra yesterday after 42,000 miles. Yup, guess what, I too have rubbing on both sides. Put original tires back on and drove to GMC dealership where I purchased the vehicle. Service shop wanted to blame it on my alignment being out when looking at the tire tread was pretty even. He wanted to charge me $100 to re-align the truck. I told him the only way I would pay for alignment was if it corrected the issue...... tire rubbing on the upper A frame. I said; " you align the front end and if the tires do not touch afterwards..... I pay and problem fixed. However, if tire is still rubbing I'm not paying". He declined. 

I left and found my salesman in his office. He was floored that his Service manager did not take my offer to pay if the problem was fixed! Salesman agreed to pay for the alignment to determine if it actually would fix the issue. After re-alignment......... tires still rubbing. 

They (GMC) are negligent in design and not wanting to fix their design flaw. Now, I have to purchase new tires ($1100-$1200) that will run the inside of there tire........ dangerous!

Is there any litigation going???

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Yup, my '17 with 20" factory wheels and tires rubbed on the UCA. I just put a 1.5" leveling kit on, don't know if it will make it worse or not. If it becomes a problem, I will look into spacers. 

Posted

with a level kit, tire rub will increase ever so slightly.  Especially if you go with a wider tire.  For me I did a 2" level kit and changed to 285/55r20 tires.  This change did increase the tire rub on the upper control arms slightly over stock.  1 1/2" wheel spacers fixed that right up & stance is so much nicer now.

Posted

anyone have a 17" work truck rim  to see how it rubs with a leveling kit?  Now you guys want to make me look at my 18 haha. I never hear anything weird when turning even full lock...

Posted

checked my 18 today, stock 18" rims and tires with a ZONE 2.25" leveling kit. pics are at full lock and both sides are equal. Looks like it has plenty of space but maybe at full lock it comes close - its a bit over 1/2" space-3/4"

 

dont mind the dirt

 

IMG_20200416_121755219.jpg

IMG_20200416_121812422.jpg

IMG_20200416_121821478.jpg

IMG_20200416_121830048.jpg

Posted
On 4/15/2020 at 5:33 PM, steve76t said:

with a level kit, tire rub will increase ever so slightly.  Especially if you go with a wider tire.  For me I did a 2" level kit and changed to 285/55r20 tires.  This change did increase the tire rub on the upper control arms slightly over stock.  1 1/2" wheel spacers fixed that right up & stance is so much nicer now.

I've got 2.25" level up front, and 275/60/20's now and i'm rubbing the UCA's as well, and looking at wheel spacers - Steve, what brand of spacers did you get?

Posted

G2 Axle & Gear. Got 'em at Summit Racing.  quality CNC'd hub-centric billet aluminum spacers.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I wonder what the price is out at the coast, Big Sur or other out of the way locations as I bet they are charging quite a premium over the in land pumps. 
    • Were you looking at the HD trucks on the GM website or the half tons as that makes all the difference. As far as I know there are only two options for the HD trucks and that is the standard 2 speed transfer case or the 2 speed transfer case that has the added 4 high auto feature and they put that transfer case by default into the LTZ and High Country although its optional in the LT and not sure if its available in the work trucks.    The half tons, that is where its been a total mess in my estimation for a few years now with most trucks below the top trim having the single speed transfer case as standard but with the option of having the two speed such as one would get by choosing the Z71 package, however then not being able to get the two speed transfer case with the towing package unless it was a higher trim truck AND had the 6.2 gas so one could combine the towing package gearing diffs with the two speed transfer case. Having said that if its a trail boss package then it gets the two speed transfer case but not necessarily able to get the tow package as it would depend on trim level and engine chosen. Believe me, people have bought the GM half tons assuming "of course it will have a two speed transfer case" only to find out after when they really pay attention to what they now own .... crap, there is NO low range !.    I don't believe Ford or Ram have gone that way yet with their half tons but like I say its been a few years now that GM has done this with the half tons. 
    • $5.19 for regular...
    • My office is slowly filling with Blazer parts. Getting ready to do the big bang of repairs. Intake (second time), water pump, radiator, hoses, and I'm going to re-seal the timing cover where someone went hog wild with silicone. Might as well, because I don't think that's done right.   There's a local tow yard that I didn't realize also has quite the inventory of junk vehicles. This is an old school junkyard. No waivers. Cash only, you were never here if anyone asks. Don't piss off the owner, or you'll end up in the back of one of those cars, headed for the shredder. And if you see something, don't snitch. Cars stacked double high, wasps nests, trip hazards and junk everywhere. I found a few little odds/ends for my Blazer. The $20 I spent was worth the experience alone. But I was never there. What yard?   I officially love/hate this truck. It's so out of my wheelhouse, roughest vehicle I've ever owned. Every. single. repair. -is so hard-fought, everything that can go wrong, goes wrong. Currently in a hate phase, and kind of wish I was closer to sending it down the road with a lucky new owner, to be honest. Preparing for the day when I tear into this thing...lots of pre-funk with Ibuprofen.   Rock Auto sent me a bad reman rear wiper motor. It was a bear to install. The tailgate in these things has about eleventy-billion fastners and pieces and things that need to be uninstalled/moved just to access the shoddy rear wiper motor. The casing on mine was cracked clean through, btw. Nice, GM, nice. SO I got this new motor installed, hit the switch, I see it wig-wag (without the arm installed) and think I'm golden. Reassemble everything. With the wiper arm installed I gave it one final test. Time to clean up and take the other half out to dinner, collect a paycheck, right?   Nope. I hear the plastic worm gear stripping as the arm hung up. Just like my broken motor. Weak/old and shredding itself internally. I can assist the arm and the range of motion is normal, and it parks correctly. It just doesn't have the poop to actually sweep the arm with a blade on it. Oh, hell. Turned the key off and shut the shop door behind me. I get to do that over again, too.
    • A complete delete is the most thorough mechanical solution, but it is also major engine work. On a quiet truck that is still under extended warranty, opening the engine purely as prevention is difficult to justify. A plug-in disabler stops commanded cylinder deactivation, but it does not remove or repair the collapsible lifters, so it should not be treated as failure insurance. I would keep the oil full, document the maintenance, and have any persistent tick, misfire, or loss of power diagnosed promptly. If the engine eventually has to come apart, that is the logical time to compare an OEM-style repair with a complete delete. The right choice depends on the truck’s symptoms, warranty status, expected ownership period, and whether the engine already needs to be opened. We explain that decision in more detail here—full disclosure, this is our own guide: https://www.bluev8.com/blogs/news/do-you-actually-need-an-afm-disabler   One exception: some 2021 L82/L84 trucks have RPO YK9, meaning cylinder deactivation was already disabled in the factory ECM; on those trucks a plug-in disabler is redundant, although the AFM/DFM hardware remains inside the engine.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...