Jump to content

Rough Country .5” top spacers - 2 sets for Stamped and Aluminum UCA’s

Arkangel

By Arkangel
in Classifieds (Buy/Sell/Trade)

Recommended Posts

Arkangel Enthusiast

Arkangel

Posted
Posted

I have 2 sets both brand new never used

 

One is for stamped steel UCA’s and goes under the coil

 

the other is for steel or aluminum UCA’s and goes on top of tr strut

 

$30 shipped per set

 

 

54679E39-DF3E-4A5F-A751-DD8C192843D0.png

72A4FD0A-6FCD-4A23-B1EA-5620B8B01C5D.png

Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted

I think these are for cast, stamped and aluminum becsuse they all use the same strut/spring

Arkangel Enthusiast

Arkangel

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The round ones are for stamped steel UCA, the others are for cast/aluminum UCA. You can confirm it with RC if youd like.

TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted

You want billet aluminum ONLY, especially if you’re up north.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      Oil Consumption

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Through the years it hasn't been my typical method as I tried to drop oil on an engine that was hot from having been worked, however that was not always practical and had to fire up a unit and let it warm up reasonably well and drop the oil when I had the time to do it but am referring to not only vehicles but a variety of farm equipment and highway tractors etc. However on a vehicle where one is crawling under it and the exhaust is nearby to ones body and if wanting to pull the plug without danger of being hit with boiling hot oil or attempting to remove a HOT oil filter, its sure safer and easier to not have everything smoking hot and can remove the filter right away when under the vehicle and let it all drain. Of course its not the end of the world if a bit of oil stays in the engine that might have eventually found its way out, I like to get out as much as possible but any oil changes that take place in shops would rarely be sitting around for very long at all before the plug is thrown back in and filter slapped on and oil poured in and sent out the door quick like. There would be very little time spent ( assuming they even did it ) in starting the engine with oil to fill the filter, then waiting to verify the level on the stick. A good reason to check ones oil level shortly after a shop changed the oil on a vehicle just to make sure its correct and to look under for any oil around the drain plug or filter. 
    • CPhelps
      4 Wheel Drive System

      By CPhelps · Posted

      Cool to see another Vermonter!
    • diyer2
      Winter Returned

      By diyer2 · Posted

      To many wildfires.
    • diyer2
      Oil Consumption

      By diyer2 · Posted

      I have changed oil and filter for years by starting a cold engine to warm oil up, let it run 5-10 minutes depending on temperature. Drain until it starts dripping, refill with quantity from owners manual or get it close.   
    • Chuck FB
      Fluid Change Questions

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I changed the factory fill oil in the rear diff of my truck for the first time today and the miles is close to 9000 on the truck. There was a lot of fines on the magnet, a very thick layer but working it through my fingers it all felt like mush and as most know it appears like graphite, so no surprise chunks anyway. Certainly was time to do it from my thinking and could have been done sooner but the oil didn't look awful but sure wasn't new looking and never expected it to either. I did use some solvent to help me clean out the bottom area of the axle housing, just get any other stuff settled at the bottom washed and wiped out of the housing for the bit of effort it takes. I used Amsoil Severe Gear 75W90 in the easy packs to try out what they are like and I used up 4 packs and didn't spill much at all in the process but did take all four of the packs and go to the work bench and emptied them into a measuring container and there certainly was some in them that added up to something, then poured that into one of the easy packs and squirted in what I could get out of it. I would say the level is within 1/8th of an inch of being level with the threads at the fill plug so just the perfect amount. Once again, more than what GM says the fill volume is but computes with what others are adding to their rear diffs as well. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...