Vacuum Pump Delete - Electric Replacmenent

[300 Blackout]

Electric vacuum pump en route. I ordered a CVR VP655 from Summit and it will be here next week.

 

[1SLOW1500]

9 hours ago, 300 Blackout said:

Electric vacuum pump en route. I ordered a CVR VP655 from Summit and it will be here next week.

 

That is a very nice pump. says it is for booster only, no crank case. And I see it is a few bucks. Hope you used a discount code!

[300 Blackout]

No discount code. I ordered it at 9:57pm last night and it arrived at my door at 9:33am this morning. I’m seriously impressed by Summit right now for delivering my order in less than 12 hours using their free ground shipping. I’m gonna use it for the booster.

[1SLOW1500]

Racers get 10-25% discount. In fact 2 codes are post up for today. Oh well so how you going to hook it up. Easiest would be booster to pump. But I have to think there is a safety valve or a pressure cut out. Then GM plugs to the factory block holes and remove factory pump. New belt and all done.
Very interested in results and pictures.

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[300 Blackout]

Pressure cuts off at 20 inches. Unit automatically turns on when it drops to 15 inches, I’m gonna confirm with a gauge prior to install since it can be adjusted if needed. The quality of this pump is superb. All electrical connections are potted. Machining is spot on. Very clean and well executed final product. Inside its box, the product was held securely in place with form fit rigid foam. Summit did a good job with their packaging too, but I’m impressed the manufacturer also took steps to assure the product was secured as well as it was. Totally worth the price.

I’m connecting the CVR directly to the booster. It has a relay wire for the ignition so no need to worry about the pump running when the vehicle is off. A side benefit of this is that I will retain brake boost even if the vehicle stalls for one reason or another as long as the key is still in the on position.

After I remove the stock vacuum pump, I will be using the oil galleys to feed my bypass filter using two brass Bosch 12mm-1.75 male to 1/8NPT female threaded adapters. Then use my 1/8NPT to -04AN hardware and steel jacketed hose to connect to the bypass. I’ll definitely be posting pics.

What thread locker is safe to use on the threads being bolted into the engine oil galleys? I’m thinking a medium thread locker with high temp stability that can be allowed to dry on the threads prior to install. Ideas?

[1SLOW1500]

I like the blue thread lock but in the paste. Looks like a glue stick. Same about product as GM has on there bolts. But depending on threads like non npt. You need teflon tape not pipe tape. And then try to get a torque wrench on them even though it isn't needed and uses a low torque gm specs it and it is peace of mind.
I question the port size being large enough. I would think it is better to have a remote dual filter, with the pickup on the stock location.

Best would just be a dry sump off a lt4 or after market system. And one could get multiple chambers. Say 4 for pan oil, one for air/vacuum, and one for my turbo drain. But the price is the same as a new motor.

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[1SLOW1500]

just looked at my truck. Noticed the pump runs of it's own belt. I want to see what the GM part is for the electric pump. 

[300 Blackout]

just looked at my truck. Noticed the pump runs of it's own belt. I want to see what the GM part is for the electric pump. 

The GM part for the corvette electric pump is a Hella pump in AC Delco packaging.

 

I saw the independent belt today also. Should be an easy delete. Found a great mounting location for the pump just above the plastic engine guard on the frame in front of the mechanical vacuum pump. I’m off to the store to buy rust reformer and some other items to address the rust on my frame before I mount the pump. I’m also going to connect the CVR pump relay to the instrument panel circuit. Seems to be a good choice for always being on when the ignition is on.

 

I spent quite a few hours today reading more than I ever wanted to know about Loctite. Thanks for the heads up about not using it on coarse threads. Turns out there are a lot of variables in choosing the right thread locker for the type of connection, metal, thread size, etc... In the end I decided I’m going to use PTFE thread tape.

 

The oil galleys should be sufficient to supply the bypass considering the return port on the filter base is very small. Perhaps a larger supply would be ideal, but I’m gonna try this for now and see how it works.

[300 Blackout]

Installation in progress

[300 Blackout]

Front of the truck looking towards the front driver’s side tire.


In front of the driver’s side tire looking toward the passenger side of the vehicle.


I stripped the frame wax then painted the frame member where it’s attached. I used all stainless steel hardware. I’ll post up all of the parts and tools needed once I’m finished getting everything hooked up.

[Centex14]

What about using one of these for crank case and brake booster?


2014 z71 LTZ
Volant Intake
Borla Exhaust
Diablo
Bilstein 5100
Rough Country Level

[1SLOW1500]

What about using one of these for crank case and brake booster?


2014 z71 LTZ
Volant Intake
Borla Exhaust
Diablo
Bilstein 5100
Rough Country Level

Yes but issue would be oil. A inline catch can may resolve that.

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[300 Blackout]

I thought about using my factory vacuum pump for crank case vacuum and installing a relief valve set to about 10-15 inches. I’m not sure what additional strain that would put on the oil pump fighting against crank vacuum on a stock engine so for now I’m not going to do that.

Im not sure electric pumps are the best choice for crank vacuum. It seems that a mechanical pump can increase its CFM output as engine RPM’s increase. I would think this is needed as more CFMs need to be moved to maintain vacuum at higher RPMs and less at lower RPMs. Perhaps an electric pump could do this but the mechanical pump seems more intuitive.

[1SLOW1500]

I thought about using my factory vacuum pump for crank case vacuum and installing a relief valve set to about 10-15 inches. I’m not sure what additional strain that would put on the oil pump fighting against crank vacuum on a stock engine so for now I’m not going to do that.

Im not sure electric pumps are the best choice for crank vacuum. It seems that a mechanical pump can increase its CFM output as engine RPM’s increase. I would think this is needed as more CFMs need to be moved to maintain vacuum at higher RPMs and less at lower RPMs. Perhaps an electric pump could do this but the mechanical pump seems more intuitive.

You are very correct belt drive pumps. Are common on race cars. And it is to get negative pressure, that helps the piston rings and oil. On max output race engine I saw 40-60fwhp increase. Race cars dont have power brakes. We and many others tried out gm electrical emission pumps as they can be had cheap or free. And they burn up.

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[imiller1974]

Is the brass and black object on the bottom of the pump assembly, the vacuum switch/solenoid? Does it have a part number? I've been looking for a good vacuum switch/solenoid for my pump setup. I purchased a Cadillac ATS pump for under $100 on Amazon that had good reviews for our similar uses.