Vacuum Pump Delete - Electric Replacmenent

300 Blackout · October 10, 2018

Has anyone deleted their belt driven vacuum pump and replaced it with an electric pump on the L83 or L86?

I’ve seen lots of talk about the possibility of doing this but am yet to see someone who followed through with it.

I know there are OEM screws available to block off the oil feed and return ports for the belt driven pump. I also know there was some talk about using a corvette electric pump but didn’t see anyone who successfully installed it.

If I were to do this modification I would likely use an aftermarket pump kit like the universal one from Summit unless the Vette pump is plug and play, then I’d go OEM.

1SLOW1500 · October 10, 2018

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-v-external-engine/1818314-l83-l93-gen-v-how-kill-vacuum-pump.html

If anything I would run a belt drive dual valve cover pump. I have had HUGE power increases with a Moroso and a Aeromotive unit on a full race block.

I would guess the trucks need more vacuum to increase the brake boosters stopping power.

imiller1974 · October 10, 2018

I'm planning on deleting mine soon. I have the AFM/DOD turned off with a tune. I'm planning on drilling and tapping the back of the intake plenum and using a 3/8" or 1/2" fitting plumbed directly to the brake booster like the pre 2014 5.3's... I may run a vacuum can and check valve....

1SLOW1500 · October 10, 2018

I wouldn't tap the intake. I would go off the valve covers with a inline or cap oil separator. If you are doing this for power, performance, and engine health. If it is for the brake booster I would do electric like the vetts. And just pull air from a small breather filter. In the tune intake manifold volume is use to calculate the fuel and the maf tables. Stealing it after the maf,map,IAT,BARO, can cause issues. It can be tuned around by changing the OS. But why all the trouble.

Pearl2017 · October 10, 2018

The racing usage of vacuum pump aside I also agree/believe the only real reason to have one is due to AFM/DOD mode and less vacuum that goes with it. When i go off warranty if that thing so much as squeaks it is coming off. Last thing I want is that vac pump disintegrating and ejecting its guts into the oil system. Please keep us posted of your results on this mod :-)

300 Blackout · October 10, 2018

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-v-external-engine/1818314-l83-l93-gen-v-how-kill-vacuum-pump.html
If anything I would run a belt drive dual valve cover pump. I have had HUGE power increases with a Moroso and a Aeromotive unit on a full race block.

I would guess the trucks need more vacuum to increase the brake boosters stopping power.

I read that whole thread but they never updated it to post their results.

Rather than tapping the valve covers, could I just connect vacuum lines to the existing ports that run to the air box and then delete the air box? It would essentially be a catch can with a vacuum pump pulling vacuum and not exhausting into the intake. Or, I could exhaust the pump into the intake after the oil separator has cleaned the air. Thoughts?

The other question is, could I use the stock vacuum pump with a bypass valve set to say 12-15 in/Hg, to drive this system and then use an electric vacuum pump to run the brakes? Yes, I want to keep V4 so the brake vacuum is needed.

1SLOW1500 · October 10, 2018

I would run it to a catch can and then back to intake. And I would worry more about the booster. I love the idea of a electric. I would like to switch to that.

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Centex14 · October 11, 2018

I tuned out the afm//dod and I’ve noticed my brakes doing funny things lately that seem to lead me to believe it’s a vac pump going out. I’m curious to see where this thread goes.

2014 z71 LTZ
Volant Intake
Borla Exhaust
Diablo
Bilstein 5100
Rough Country Level

1SLOW1500 · October 11, 2018

I tuned out the afm//dod and I’ve noticed my brakes doing funny things lately that seem to lead me to believe it’s a vac pump going out. I’m curious to see where this thread goes.

2014 z71 LTZ
Volant Intake
Borla Exhaust
Diablo
Bilstein 5100
Rough Country Level

I would hook up a vacuum gauge even if you just run a 1/4" hose into the car through the door jam. And re how much vac. You are running.

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300 Blackout · October 12, 2018

1SLOW1500, What adapter did you use between your oil filter and truck? After you feed the turbo, how does it return to the sump?

I’m rethinking my bypass filter plumbing because I don’t want to return the oil through the oil fill cap. I think I’m going to use the oil ports that supply the vacuum pump and plumbing them to feed the bypass filter after I delete the pump.

Where the vacuum pump is mounted on the engine, there are two oil ports that supply and return from the pump. Does anyone know which of these ports, top or bottom, is the supply?

imiller1974 · October 12, 2018

That's exactly what I was thinking of doing when I run a bypass filter.

1SLOW1500 · October 12, 2018

I have a sandwich adapter over the oil filter. It has o rings on top do you just bolt it down and a filter mounts as always to the bottom like stock. Only issue is only a small oil filter fits. Return is a 5/8 line on the passenger side. Filled and taped the pan high and back just before the starter.

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300 Blackout · October 12, 2018

I have a sandwich adapter over the oil filter. It has o rings on top do you just bolt it down and a filter mounts as always to the bottom like stock. Only issue is only a small oil filter fits. Return is a 5/8 line on the passenger side. Filled and taped the pan high and back just before the starter.

That’s why I asked. I have a pancake but my filter won’t fit because of the frame’s crossbar. Might not need the pancake any longer if I plumb into the vacuum pump’s oil galley.

300 Blackout · October 12, 2018

That's exactly what I was thinking of doing when I run a bypass filter.

Great minds think alike :-). Now if I could figure out which one is the supply, I’d be all set to get things rolling once the electric pump arrives.

1SLOW1500 · October 12, 2018

Yeah that is why for $40 I can get a remote filter kit with lines then mount the new filter mount inside the frame, like you see the fuel filters on the diesel trucks. K&N have the wrench nut welded to the bottom so oil change should be easy. Also the oil adapter has 3 ports. So I will run the innovate dual oil pressure/temperature. Dash gauge sucks.

Next oil change HPL rated number one oil. And I made some calls and the Big drag cars are running it. If my $40k engine and turbos need it then more than good on a turbo sierra.

And when you remove the pump you should be able to spindle the pump and see the flow direction.

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