Vacuum Pump Delete - Electric Replacmenent

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And in other news out of Novi huge black truck loses brakes and crashes into group of people, said he was testing a new brake system.....Fail.
Just kidding buddy. But you have a check valve on that so built are is held?
Maybe like the moroso oil accumulators have the electric valve.

That would be my luck! hahaha... yep, I’ve got a check valve on the line to the canister and at the canister then the one at the booster.

I could always hook the electric pump up again as a redundant source of vacuum. Maybe it wouldn’t bother me if the thing wasn’t running all the time.

[1SLOW1500]

Sti like to see someone just power up.a stock electric pump. Sure we can buy the harness and make it plug and play. Pump wouldn't run as on you system with the tank.

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[tyler.frost92]

Well, I deleted the electric vacuum pump and am now pulling vacuum from the PCV hose without any issues (AFM is disabled).

I tried a few different ways to see if I could pull vacuum off of the intake before the throttle body because I was trying to avoid introducing any unmetered air via the PCV. As expected, they were all utter failures and I resorted to splicing a T fitting into the PCV hose.

I ran my vacuum line from the PCV back to a vacuum reservoir mounted just behind the engine bay fuse box. I had to remove the wiring harness terminal closest to the bulkhead from it’s mounting bracket to allow it to drop down a few inches and make room for the reservoir.

I bent up two metal brackets and mounted them with bolts to some existing holes in the upper bulkhead lip, just in front of the cabin air intake. This is a perfect spot for the reservoir IMO.

It’s nice not hearing the electric vacuum pump anymore or worrying about whether or not it would fail. This is also a much cleaner set up.

Here’s some pictures. Pay no attention to the hole I drilled in my intake air box nor the driver’s side valve cover breather hose... those are all the cost of doing business when trying new things.

I’ve amassed nearly every part I need for a hydroboost retrofit (not cheap) but I’m considering not installing it after seeing how this setup turned out. If I end up keeping it, I’m gonna upgrade my brackets and hoses for a more finished look. When you look at the pictures try to ignore the ridiculously long valve cover breather hose. If I had the normal hose, this setup would look very clean. Unfortunately, the bend radius on the replacement hose I bought caused it to kink unless I made it long like it is in the picture.

Thanks to imiller74 who shared his setup with me months ago back when he got his blower. I’ve been sitting on this idea since then and finally pulled the trigger.

Now, what to do with the vacuum pump...

Would this setup work the same if I teed off of the outlet of my catch can?


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22 minutes ago, tyler.frost92 said:

 

Would this setup work the same if I teed off of the outlet of my catch can?


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It should but confirm it on your own before running it. I’ve had absolutely no problems and think my brakes perform better compared to stock. I used to run out of brake assist briefly when applying my brakes multiple times in a row (slow speed maneuvers requiring repeated braking). Now, that’s pretty much unheard of and way better than the mechanical or electric pumps. I think the reservoir is a big help and would probably be a good idea even for the guys running the mechanical pump.

 

Obviously, you really need to be smart about this because it’s your braking system. Make sure you’ve got a check valve on the line between where you spliced into your catch can’s outlet line and the reservoir can. The brake booster already has a check valve where the line connects to the booster. Be sure to check that the valve is installed in the correct direction. I know it sounds obvious, but it’s an easy mistake to make (which I did) so just be smart and double check everything. 

[tyler.frost92]

It should but confirm it on your own before running it. I’ve had absolutely no problems and think my brakes perform better compared to stock. I used to run out of brake assist briefly when applying my brakes multiple times in a row (slow speed maneuvers requiring repeated braking). Now, that’s pretty much unheard of and way better than the mechanical or electric pumps. I think the reservoir is a big help and would probably be a good idea even for the guys running the mechanical pump.
 
Obviously, you really need to be smart about this because it’s your braking system. Make sure you’ve got a check valve on the line between where you spliced into your catch can’s outlet line and the reservoir can. The brake booster already has a check valve where the line connects to the booster. Be sure to check that the valve is installed in the correct direction. I know it sounds obvious, but it’s an easy mistake to make (which I did) so just be smart and double check everything. 

Thanks for the reply. I’ve been having some nasty noises coming from my vacuum pump, and I’d like to just delete it. Thought about going the electric route but can’t seem to source a switch with good reviews. I don’t want it constantly running. Also I can’t just have the dealer replace it under the bulletin because everything in Michigan is still shutdown. So hopefully I can locally source a canister, tee, and check valves. I should have some vacuum hose laying around.


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2 hours ago, tyler.frost92 said:

 

 

Thanks for the reply. I’ve been having some nasty noises coming from my vacuum pump, and I’d like to just delete it. Thought about going the electric route but can’t seem to source a switch with good reviews. I don’t want it constantly running. Also I can’t just have the dealer replace it under the bulletin because everything in Michigan is still shutdown. So hopefully I can locally source a canister, tee, and check valves. I should have some vacuum hose laying around.


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I’m in Michigan too. The dealer should still be able to repair your vacuum pump and perform recall service. I believe that qualifies as a critical service since it’s a safety item on your vehicle and you need your vehicle to get food, supplies, etc... might be worth a call if you haven’t already. 

 

I wouldn’t use an electric vacuum pump again. It constantly ran and struggled to keep up. Mine weren’t cheap pumps either. Another consideration is that if you have any problem with your electrical system, the pump might not function.

 

Obviously a problem with the electrical system is concerning in and of itself. I had a low voltage situation about 3 months ago. While running the truck with a lot of load on the alternator, it would shut the truck off when I executed a low speed turn (increased load due to electric steering assist). Definitely wouldn’t want to lose brakes because of it too. 

 

Before you remove your mechanical pump, make sure you have the two screws that block off the oil galleries in the block. Super simple install, thread locker is already on them. I can’t remember the GM part number for them but they’re like $5 for the pair. 

 

Also, you can still order a vacuum reservoir from Summit and have it delivered to your house. The canister they offer comes with everything you need (not the hose), including the one way check valve. I think mine was like $35. 

[tyler.frost92]

I’m in Michigan too. The dealer should still be able to repair your vacuum pump and perform recall service. I believe that qualifies as a critical service since it’s a safety item on your vehicle and you need your vehicle to get food, supplies, etc... might be worth a call if you haven’t already. 
 
I wouldn’t use an electric vacuum pump again. It constantly ran and struggled to keep up. Mine weren’t cheap pumps either. Another consideration is that if you have any problem with your electrical system, the pump might not function.
 
Obviously a problem with the electrical system is concerning in and of itself. I had a low voltage situation about 3 months ago. While running the truck with a lot of load on the alternator, it would shut the truck off when I executed a low speed turn (increased load due to electric steering assist). Definitely wouldn’t want to lose brakes because of it too. 
 
Before you remove your mechanical pump, make sure you have the two screws that block off the oil galleries in the block. Super simple install, thread locker is already on them. I can’t remember the GM part number for them but they’re like $5 for the pair. 
 
Also, you can still order a vacuum reservoir from Summit and have it delivered to your house. The canister they offer comes with everything you need (not the hose), including the one way check valve. I think mine was like $35. 

Not pictured is the block off plugs/bolts. Hopefully that's everything I need minus hose



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41 minutes ago, tyler.frost92 said:

Not pictured is the block off plugs/bolts. Hopefully that's everything I need minus hose



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All you need is the canister and the 1/2” to 3/8” adapter. The canister comes with a check valve; it’s a 90 degree fitting that connects into the large port on the canister. There’s a check valve already at the booster and the PCV valve is a check valve so you’re covered. 

 

Pick up some constant tension hose clamps (or similar) and you’re good to go. 

[tyler.frost92]

All you need is the canister and the 1/2” to 3/8” adapter. The canister comes with a check valve; it’s a 90 degree fitting that connects into the large port on the canister. There’s a check valve already at the booster and the PCV valve is a check valve so you’re covered. 

 

Pick up some constant tension hose clamps (or similar) and you’re good to go. 

 

I planned on adding a check valve between the tee and the intake and one between the tee and canister. Guess I don't need to

 

 

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[tyler.frost92]

Well... it works








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[tyler.frost92]

Inside of my pump that sounded like a lifter tick after truck fully warmed up.




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[tyler.frost92]

Double post

[wingsaa]

Okay so I hooked it up like 'tyler.frost92' and everything worked fine and has really good brake vacuum. One thing I noticed immediately however when I was checking the brake pressure was that I went very lean in my LTFT. I'm not really sure why. All of my connections are tight and there is no vacuum leak. I was just testing so I didn't remove the belt from the pump and just left it running. I don't see how that could be causing an issue unless somehow it's allowing unmetered air in that way somehow. I also capped the mechanical vacuum pump as well and it really ran like crap then with throttle tip-in at idle.

 

I swapped back the mechanical pump hose to the booster and the LTFT's went back to normal.

 

So is that it? Do I need to remove the belt from the mechanical pump so it doesn't run and then cap the port? If that is the case I should be fine to remove the pump then and plug oil ports. Just wanted to test everything before physically removing the pump.

 

Edited update

Okay, I'm going to eat a bit of my own crow. Just a reminder to check and double check... and in my case, triple check connections. I must have had a leak at one of the connections. I retightened everything and all is good! I guess Monday's can be good after all. lol

 

Edited July 26, 2021 by wingsaa

[oneslowl83]

On 6/17/2019 at 11:38 AM, Juanito said:

Well after reading all of these for a while I thought to myself. Ah what the hell. I ran a catch can on my 2015 Sierra 5.3 and spliced a tee into the vacuum line that goes to the intake manifold. My brakes work fine! Deleted my belt driven pump. Note that my truck is tuned with Cai and cats are deleted  

So you tied the booster sensor vacuum line into the exit side of your catch can that is routed into the driver side next to coil packs with a T? Am I correct with what you are saying?