Vacuum Pump Delete - Electric Replacmenent

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Is the brass and black object on the bottom of the pump assembly, the vacuum switch/solenoid? Does it have a part number? I've been looking for a good vacuum switch/solenoid for my pump setup. I purchased a Cadillac ATS pump for under $100 on Amazon that had good reviews for our similar uses. 

Yes, it is the switch. The part number is VS25 and the silver check valve it’s screwed into is VS27. I found the switch at summit in the link below but didn’t find the valve.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cvs-vs-25

[1SLOW1500]

what is the pump cut out pressure? I see -22.00 on my digital gauge with the stock pump and DOD delete. 

 

[300 Blackout]

what is the pump cut out pressure? I see -22.00 on my digital gauge with the stock pump and DOD delete. 

I should have readings by tonight once I pick up a gauge. I just finished all the wiring. I’m a little paranoid about electrical stuff so I read the gmupfitter electrical guide before making my connections and choosing locations for ground, power, etc... I think it turned out great although I went a little heavy on the electrical tape and shrink wrap. :-)The pump isn’t loud at all.

https://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/474/2014%20BBM%20Electrical%20section_10_18_2013_WIP.pdf#page250

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I used 1/4 refrigerator water line as conduit to pass the relay wire from the engine compartment to the driver’s side interior fuse box.

 

Just below the A pillar, above where the factory door wires enter through the body into the footwell, is a round weather plug/cap. I drilled a small hole in the middle of it and ran the conduit through it and into the footwell.

 

It comes out just above the parking brake.

 

And can easily be routed into the fuse box where I also spliced in a fuse since the prong I used was not fused.

 

The prong I chose is next to a 50amp fuse and is for an accessory power outlet/retained accessory power (APO/RAP) which means it is only powered when the ignition is in the run position and retains power for up to 10 minutes after the vehicle is turned off as long as the driver door remains closed. It also automatically turns off during the crank cycle. The fuse number on my vehicles panel diagram is #10. This prong was left exposed from the factory and was very easy to connect to using standard female blade terminal fittings. This circuit seemed to be a safe choice for the relay as it is controlled by the BCM rather than the ECM. Looking back, I could have run both the pump power and relay off of this same circuit rather than running power for the pump directly from the battery like I did.

 

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To ground the circuit, I reviewed the gmupfitter electrical guide and chose a location on the frame near where the pump was installed. I removed the bolt, scuffed the surface with steel wool and connected my ground. I also used plenty of dielectric grease to protect from the elements. I again used water line as conduit to protect the wire from chafing if it rubs on the frame.
This pic shows that at the chosen grounding location there is a factory wire that connects to a vehicle ground. The wire I am connecting from the pump can be seen above.
This is what the prepared grounding wire from the pump looks like.

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Been working on this all day. Finally removed the engine’s vacuum pump (I made it much harder than it needed to be but then again there really isn’t a “how to” readily available online).

Four bolts come out with hand tools, you just need noodles for arms and a variety of sockets to choose from to get them out. They are all 13mm bolts but the socket length and extensions are key to being able to fit just right. Too long and you hit the steering shaft. Too short and the pump diaphragm blocks you. It is much easier if you remove the factory vacuum line first and cut the vacuum pump belt before starting.

Removing the wheel well liner isn’t absolutely necessary but it’s helpful. The best vantage point is looking from under the truck with your feet towards the front passenger wheel and head towards the front driver’s wheel (do yourself a favor and take the wheel off, you’ll need the room) then looking between the front differential and the steering rack towards the pump. The rear two bolts are easiest to remove from the top of the engine not the side wheel well. You can get the socket on the bolt while looking from the wheel well then move up to the top to finish removal.

The top front bolt is also easiest to remove from the top. Once you remove the vacuum line the bolt sits directly under the hose connection port on the pump. The bottom front bolt can be accessed from the top or from under the truck. I’d recommend getting them all out from the top. Even though you’re going to have to do it by feel since you won’t be able to see the bolts, it’s much easier on your back and hands.

I’m taking a break before trying to get the pump out of the truck. It’s a bit of a square peg in a round hole. Probably gonna remove the pulley.

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Stock pump is out. Needed to move it forward past the wiring harness that was previously attached to it and then up past the ECM. It’s takes some firm pressure on the wires to make room for it to be pulled up. I was a bit nervous but it eventually came out with enough rotating the pump and bit by bit moving past the wires.

The oil intake on the pump (top oil galley on the engine) has a fine mesh metal screen. Mine did have some debris that was caught by the screen which I removed before taking the picture below. I would imagine if enough built up eventually the screen would clog causing the pump to run dry and failure of the pump. From what I can see it does not appear to have a screen in the return.

After I’m done, I plan on disassembling the pump to inspect the internals. Now I’m moving on to install my bypass filter.

[imiller1974]

Woohoo, alrighty! I'm doing this soon, but not looking forward to it. I'm actually a little sore today from doing all the drivetrain fluids yesterday. Crawling under and out from under multiple times made the 'ol legs and back a little sore... LOL.  I was looking at the vacuum pump while I was working on the front diff fluid, and wondering how the hell I was going to get it out of there... Square peg in a round hole sums it up.

[300 Blackout]

Woohoo, alrighty! I'm doing this soon, but not looking forward to it. I'm actually a little sore today from doing all the drivetrain fluids yesterday. Crawling under and out from under multiple times made the 'ol legs and back a little sore... LOL.  I was looking at the vacuum pump while I was working on the front diff fluid, and wondering how the hell I was going to get it out of there... Square peg in a round hole sums it up.

It’s definitely not a difficult job but not one I’d look forward to doing again. The pump comes out with coaxing. I didn’t have to remove the pulley.

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I purchased steel braided hose to use for plumbing the bypass filter and I don’t think I’ve ever been more frustrated than I am with trying to get the steel braid into the AN hose fittings. I’ve poked my fingers at least 20 times, have cut the hose with a hacksaw, then electric chop saw, taped it, used a vice and screw driver to coax the steel into the fitting. It just won’t fit.

For now I ended up peeling back the braid at the connection but it looks terrible. Any tips for getting this stuff to work?

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I broke off the brass M12x1.75 to 1/8NPT adaptor in the engine. Didn’t take much past snug to do it. There’s enough outside of the engine that I should be able to grab it with pliers. Project is on hold until I can get a new adapter.

[imiller1974]

That sucks, but sure do appreciate you doing all this homework...

[Centex14]

I hate steel braided hose. Did one fuel system with it and swore to never use it again. I tried all of the same tricks you did.


2014 z71 LTZ
Volant Intake
Borla Exhaust
Diablo
Bilstein 5100
Rough Country Level

[midwestdenaliguy]

Man, really wish I saw this a couple weeks ago when I had a dealership replace my vacuum pump. $700 later my brakes are back to normal. Based on other threads it looks like the replacement will probably go faulty just like the original. At that time I'll be doing this. Awesome work here, thanks!

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Here some pics from last night when I was testing all the fittings for the bypass filter. I’m going to use Permatex Seal+Lock instead of Teflon tape. The weight of the hoses and vibration of the engine will constantly apply force to the brass fitting trying to make it loosen. I need a thread locker so I don’t have to apply any torque to the adapter. The Permatex product is recommended for oil temp sensors so I’ll give it a shot and see how it goes.