Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 10/25/2018 at 8:40 AM, 2019_Silverado_HC said:

A couple of pictures...

IMG_0666.jpg

IMG_0668.jpg

That looks legit!

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Has anyone had any issues with the integrity of this 12V swithced power source?  I have noticed that the accessory I have connected to the metal spade connector mentioned above loses power when I open and then shut the driver door while the truck is running.  Sometimes the device powers back up but sometimes it stays off so it's compeltely inconsistent.  It's for a Antilaser Priority Laser Shifter so definitely concerning when it will randomly shut off while running around town.  Could this be a voltage drop or a ground issue?  It just seems odd that it would only happen when closing the door to the truck.

  • 4 months later...
Posted

Hey all! Some great tips in here. Did we conclude that a t-tap into the gray wire on the BCM in the driver’s side footwell is the place to go to power these when the dome lights come on/go off? Thanks!

Posted
On 7/13/2020 at 10:56 PM, Alex K said:

I haven’t messed with mine since the original install, but I really want mine to come on during door open/close and while driving. That setup sounds like exactly what I want. Do you have pictures of where on the BCM it connects? I’m sure I can find the purple headlight wire but I’ve had a hell of a time finding the dome wire, especially since online diagrams are sparse. It would be awesome if you did a short writeup based on the wires you tapped. Thank you for the update, you’ve re-piqued my interest!

Alex,

 

I'd encourage you to look at page 2 of this forum thread. Smoothbassman has a pic and a description of where the correct wire is on the BCM. 

Posted
28 minutes ago, Daryl Casey said:

Alex,

 

I'd encourage you to look at page 2 of this forum thread. Smoothbassman has a pic and a description of where the correct wire is on the BCM. 

I'd also encourage you to look at my comment on page 3, from July of last year. That grey wire on the BCM doesn't work as intended

Posted (edited)
32 minutes ago, Alex K said:

I'd also encourage you to look at my comment on page 3, from July of last year. That grey wire on the BCM doesn't work as intended

My apologies. I thought that was what you were looking for. 

 

Looking at the GM Upfitter manuals (page 7-250 of the electrical manual) https://www.gmupfitter.com/pdflists/view/45  the electrical connector you want is BCM X1 (white plug) pin 23 (Gray wire) it is the 2nd gray wire on the plug closer to the bottom.(Bottom row, 2nd in from right)The plug wires are numbered if you look at the plug from the side where the wires go into it.

 

That is the one that will dim the cabin lights. I've tapped into that wire for my footwell lights and they dim just like the OEM lighting now.

 

Hope this helps,

DC

Edited by Daryl Casey
  • Like 1
  • 5 months later...
Posted

It's interesting but in my 21' AT4 while my BCM X1 white plug has gray wires in pins 21 and 23, pin 23 does not have significant voltage when the dome lights are on, it only reads about 0.1v above nothing.   Now I did add 2 LEDs to the overhead console and tapped into a gray wire up there and they work fine as per:  https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/232272-interior-lighting/?do=findComment&comment=2476751

 

Not sure if that would have impacted things at the BCM plug.  I can also add that if I remove the white BCM X1 the dome lights immediately die, but I have not been able to identify the wire in that plug that appears to trigger them.

 

It's driving me quite bonkers actually, because so many of the resources say that's the place to tap into under the drivers area, but it absolutely does not work on mine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.
    • It is 4wd. shop told me it is the slip yoke. But not sure.
    • No, I did not tune out vvt. From what I read it should still be able to run without it, it'll just lose some torque/power.    I can see how that would make it not run correctly, but why would that cause the faulty MAF readings?   EDIT: I just ran a quick test and checked, and as I expected, the computer sees that the VVT cam phaser solenoid is not present, and throws a code for it, and does not try to change the cam angle at all. Commanded position just remains at zero, 100% of the time. This makes me think that the VVT is most likely not the cause of the problem though if anyone has a different/better explanation, I'm all ears.   UPDATE: I was able to find that my scan tool does indeed support reading the frequency (hz) off of the MAF (I thought it wasn't supported but turns out I just didn't know where to look for it). I noticed that regardless of engine state it always however this Is not what I observed with my multimeter. Like I said before, the MAF seems to put out a normal signal during cranking and then the signal drops to a very erratic reading once the engine is running. It seems from what my scan tool is telling me that the ECM is not recognizing this at all, and just reads 0 Hz 100% of the time. This pushes me towards the the PCM itself is faulty. I I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle, which I may try to connect and program (it's only ~50 bucks to get the software for a one-time programming)
    • Did you tune out the VVT?  07-09 they did not have VVT.  2010-2013 they did.      If you haven't tuned it, its trying to adjust cam timing.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...