Jump to content

T1 Switched Power Source

2019_Silverado_HC
 Share

Recommended Posts

2019_Silverado_HC Enthusiast

2019_Silverado_HC

Posted
Posted

I installed some RGB footwell lights this weekend (picture forthcoming) and part of the project involved locating a switched power source and preferably one with retained accessory power.  In the right fuse panel (passenger side) by fuse F27 which is a square shaped fuse, there is an additional prong next to it that will accept a spade connector which you can then run a wire to a separate fuse for whatever you are installing.  I hope this helps someone else since wiring diagrams are not readily available on the net yet.  Enjoy!

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

2019_Silverado_HC
2019_Silverado_HC

I installed some RGB footwell lights this weekend (picture forthcoming) and part of the project involved locating a switched power source and preferably one with retained accessory power.  In the righ

Smoothbassman
Smoothbassman

Yes There is only one slot that is switched. It's the spade to the left of the 50 amp circuit breaker. Top right of this picture. You have to use a spade connection to grab it and split it off

Zeker
Zeker

Hooked mine up last night. Wired them into the dome lights. Thanks Smoothbassman!

Posted Images

Black02Silverado Senior Enthusiast

Black02Silverado

Posted
Posted

Good info, thanks.  I will be adding foot-well lighting  as well.  Hate getting in and not having it.  It is standard on my 2002.  Can't believe they got rid of it.

  • 1 month later...
1FUNC5 Enthusiast

1FUNC5

Posted
Posted

 Has anyone had the issue of this power source cutting off and back on when the truck cranks from auto stop start ??????

  • 1 month later...
Black02Silverado Senior Enthusiast

Black02Silverado

Posted
Posted

I take it this power source works with the interior lights?  As when you open the door they come on and then go out?

destrada127 Enthusiast

destrada127

Posted
Posted
On 12/5/2018 at 11:50 AM, 2019_Silverado_HC said:

No issues on my truck.

If this connection has retained accessory power, are your lights always on? 

destrada127 Enthusiast

destrada127

Posted
Posted
RAP only stays on until the driver door is opened.
Yeah I figured that out after I wired it up lol. I was just concerned because my car charger stays on with the truck off and thought that was the "retained" accessory power

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Black02Silverado Senior Enthusiast

Black02Silverado

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 10/22/2018 at 10:54 AM, 2019_Silverado_HC said:

I installed some RGB footwell lights this weekend (picture forthcoming) and part of the project involved locating a switched power source and preferably one with retained accessory power.  In the right fuse panel (passenger side) by fuse F27 which is a square shaped fuse, there is an additional prong next to it that will accept a spade connector which you can then run a wire to a separate fuse for whatever you are installing.  I hope this helps someone else since wiring diagrams are not readily available on the net yet.  Enjoy!

OK on my 2019 that connection is always hot.  Anyone have any more suggestions.  What is an easy way to test it to go off when the dome lights go off?  It's just me so no other help to turn on and off things while I probe with a test light.  I tried the one by the 50amp fuse and it was always on as well.

passengersidefuse.jpg

Edited by Black02Silverado
destrada127 Enthusiast

destrada127

Posted
Posted
OK on my 2019 that connection is always hot.  Anyone have any more suggestions.  What is an easy way to test it to go off when the dome lights go off?  It's just me so no other help to turn on and off things while I probe with a test light.  I tried the one by the 50amp fuse and it was always on as well.
passengersidefuse.thumb.jpg.da22ca8e233711e7b09e9b0b6d139020.jpg
I hooked up to the one by the 50 amp and my lights will only come on once the truck is running, not with dome lightsd824b4c227ce77ce0cb3591799ae7f27.jpg

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Black02Silverado Senior Enthusiast

Black02Silverado

Posted
Posted
Just now, destrada127 said:

I hooked up to the one by the 50 amp and my lights will only come on once the truck is running, not with dome lightsd824b4c227ce77ce0cb3591799ae7f27.jpg

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

Yep, problem is, mine are just LED's.  No controller so they stay on all the time while driving.  Not sure How I will like that at night.  Would rather have a switched source that is connected to the  dome lights.  I just need to find the wire to tap into.

destrada127 Enthusiast

destrada127

Posted
Posted
Yep, problem is, mine are just LED's.  No controller so they stay on all the time while driving.  Not sure How I will like that at night.  Would rather have a switched source that is connected to the  dome lights.  I just need to find the wire to tap into.
That's what I did on my Tacoma. I had the foot lights and rock lights on with my done lights. If you find that wire, please let me know

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  • 2 weeks later...
MadCaddie Enthusiast

MadCaddie

Posted
Posted (edited)

I'm looking for the same thing (dome Light control) I am definitely missing footwell lights (as well as puddle lights.)

 

I don't believe it's something we're gonna find in the fuse box.  It's more than likely gonna be a bcm plug.  I think it was grey on the last gen trucks.  

 

Im not a fan of splicing into those wires so I'm thinking of making a pass through plug with a tap of the dome light wire.   

 

Same with my high beams to aux lights. 

 

I'll do some digging when I get a free weekend and let you know. 

 

Below is what I've found so far. 

Screenshot_20190305-115818.png

Screenshot_20190305-115832.png

Screenshot_20190305-120047.png

Screenshot_20190305-120206.png

Edited by MadCaddie
  • 2 months later...
dj13990 Enthusiast

dj13990

Posted
Posted

Anyone figure out if this is possible yet?  I know on the previous years you could tap into the BCM plug.  But wondering if anyone has done it on the 2019's yet?  I would love for the LED's to go on and off with the interior lights. 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,842
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    CaptainDad
    Newest Member
    CaptainDad
    Joined

  • Who's Online   7 Members, 0 Anonymous, 566 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...