1"-2" Lift - Blocks & Shocks?

[Icutmetl]

Have been doing a lot of research on all the options for leveling kits, lift kits, shocks, upgrades, etc- holy cow, there's lots of info & fluff out there! 

 

I've got a new black 2018 GMC 2500HD SLD All-Terrain that I'd like to lift just a bit, and add slightly taller tires to the stock 5-spoke 20" rims.  I'm thinking either 275/65R20's most likely, or possibly 285/60R20 3-peak rated all-terrain tires.  I know I can fit these w/o adding any additional height, but I want to get it up there just a little bit without doing anything excessive.  I want to lift both ends equally to maintain the factory rake.  This isn't a daily driver truck; I don't abuse it, do boosted 4wd launches, or any extreme off-roading, but it needs to work when I need it to work. 

 

Right now, what I'm thinking is to use my factory torsion keys and get 1.5" or so out of them, providing that I can maintain the 5/8"-3/4" of space between the UCA & droop stop.  Shock spacers are cheap, and so are differential drop spacers- will likely do both of those, certainly the shock spacers at the very least.  I can see the value in upper control arms, but it's not my plan to go to the extreme end of the stock components, and I'd like to maintain as many stock parts as possible. 

 

My main question is regarding the rear axle.  I've seen lots of info suggesting that extended shocks aren't needed for an additional 1"-2" of lift & that there's enough built into the factory shocks.  Are you guys finding this to be the case?  Say I end up with an even 1.5" on both ends; it'd be great to only have to buy spacers for the front and not have to replace my factory shocks- providing that it won't be putting any components at risk. 

 

Next question is about the rear lift blocks themselves.  I see some are fabricated while others are cast iron; I'm inclined to purchase the iron blocks, as I see those being a more robust option.  I'm also inclined to stick with the tapered blocks, as I'm assuming those will help maintain a proper pinion angle. 

 

Am I on the right track here?  Thanks for any opinions & insight. 

[TXGREEK]

Have been doing a lot of research on all the options for leveling kits, lift kits, shocks, upgrades, etc- holy cow, there's lots of info & fluff out there! 

 

I've got a new black 2018 GMC 2500HD SLD All-Terrain that I'd like to lift just a bit, and add slightly taller tires to the stock 5-spoke 20" rims.  I'm thinking either 275/65R20's most likely, or possibly 285/60R20 3-peak rated all-terrain tires.  I know I can fit these w/o adding any additional height, but I want to get it up there just a little bit without doing anything excessive.  I want to lift both ends equally to maintain the factory rake.  This isn't a daily driver truck; I don't abuse it, do boosted 4wd launches, or any extreme off-roading, but it needs to work when I need it to work. 

 

Right now, what I'm thinking is to use my factory torsion keys and get 1.5" or so out of them, providing that I can maintain the 5/8"-3/4" of space between the UCA & droop stop.  Shock spacers are cheap, and so are differential drop spacers- will likely do both of those, certainly the shock spacers at the very least.  I can see the value in upper control arms, but it's not my plan to go to the extreme end of the stock components, and I'd like to maintain as many stock parts as possible. 

 

My main question is regarding the rear axle.  I've seen lots of info suggesting that extended shocks aren't needed for an additional 1"-2" of lift & that there's enough built into the factory shocks.  Are you guys finding this to be the case?  Say I end up with an even 1.5" on both ends; it'd be great to only have to buy spacers for the front and not have to replace my factory shocks- providing that it won't be putting any components at risk. 

 

Next question is about the rear lift blocks themselves.  I see some are fabricated while others are cast iron; I'm inclined to purchase the iron blocks, as I see those being a more robust option.  I'm also inclined to stick with the tapered blocks, as I'm assuming those will help maintain a proper pinion angle. 

 

Am I on the right track here?  Thanks for any opinions & insight. 

 

Pretty truck, congrats. I wouldn’t touch the torsion keys unless replacing them. Do not mess with the front end geometry, it’ll ruin your ride. Look into a few different lifts, primarily CST which is the top manufacturer of highest quality lifts. My 16 Dmax was a toy that hauled my toy hauler and grew tired of it quickly. You get what you pay for in the suspension world. If you go cheap to get the look you then have doomed yourself and will seriously freak out at the repair cost because you went cheap.

 

I’m not very familiar with 3/4 ton lifts but I know better than to skimp on quality. Check out CST and then checkout same make at Performance lifts.com for lower prices on the CST lift you chose.

https://cstsuspension.com/

 

Good luck and Happy New Year!

 

 

 

Sent from above

[TXGREEK]

Here’s the lift you want

https://cstsuspension.com/2011-2019-hd-2500-3500/257-4-inch-lift-kit-2011-to-2018-2500hd.html

It’ll keep your stock ride quality and stock track width without giving you that widened look requiring you to add rear spacers like other lift do. You also get to keep your original wheels and keeps same stock turning radius. Incredible lift kit!


Sent from above

[jimmyboy8301]

Have been doing a lot of research on all the options for leveling kits, lift kits, shocks, upgrades, etc- holy cow, there's lots of info & fluff out there! 

 

I've got a new black 2018 GMC 2500HD SLD All-Terrain that I'd like to lift just a bit, and add slightly taller tires to the stock 5-spoke 20" rims.  I'm thinking either 275/65R20's most likely, or possibly 285/60R20 3-peak rated all-terrain tires.  I know I can fit these w/o adding any additional height, but I want to get it up there just a little bit without doing anything excessive.  I want to lift both ends equally to maintain the factory rake.  This isn't a daily driver truck; I don't abuse it, do boosted 4wd launches, or any extreme off-roading, but it needs to work when I need it to work. 

 

Right now, what I'm thinking is to use my factory torsion keys and get 1.5" or so out of them, providing that I can maintain the 5/8"-3/4" of space between the UCA & droop stop.  Shock spacers are cheap, and so are differential drop spacers- will likely do both of those, certainly the shock spacers at the very least.  I can see the value in upper control arms, but it's not my plan to go to the extreme end of the stock components, and I'd like to maintain as many stock parts as possible. 

 

My main question is regarding the rear axle.  I've seen lots of info suggesting that extended shocks aren't needed for an additional 1"-2" of lift & that there's enough built into the factory shocks.  Are you guys finding this to be the case?  Say I end up with an even 1.5" on both ends; it'd be great to only have to buy spacers for the front and not have to replace my factory shocks- providing that it won't be putting any components at risk. 

 

Next question is about the rear lift blocks themselves.  I see some are fabricated while others are cast iron; I'm inclined to purchase the iron blocks, as I see those being a more robust option.  I'm also inclined to stick with the tapered blocks, as I'm assuming those will help maintain a proper pinion angle. 

 

Am I on the right track here?  Thanks for any opinions & insight. 

Definitely iron blocks, and with that small of a block flat should be fine. I’d check out Cognito, they make top quality kits, especially for HDs. They have leveling kits with new keys, UCAs, an option for shock extenders or new shocks, options for pitman/idler support, options for new TREs, and traction bars.

 

https://cognitomotorsports.com/i-30498951-cognito-standard-leveling-package-for-2011-through-2019-gm-2500hd-3500hd-trucks.html#!make%3DGM%7C%7Cyear%3D2018%7C%7Csubmodel%3DTRUCK%7C%7Cmodel%3D2500

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Icutmetl]

That CTS kit looks very well put together; but again...even at 3”, it’s more than I’m looking for and more than I’m willing to spend at this point. 

 

I dont have much room to give on height entering my garage, and I’m really just wanting that “barely taller than stock” look.

 

What I’m really wondering about is the black hole of aftermarket shock lengths for rear ends that are lifted between 1”-2”.

[TXGREEK]

That CTS kit looks very well put together; but again...even at 3”, it’s more than I’m looking for and more than I’m willing to spend at this point. 
 
I dont have much room to give on height entering my garage, and I’m really just wanting that “barely taller than stock” look.
 
What I’m really wondering about is the black hole of aftermarket shock lengths for rear ends that are lifted between 1”-2”.

Take your time and do it right the first time. I barely made it into one of my standard garages with my DMax and it wasn’t even leveled or lifted, just added one inch taller tire. If being able to get into your garage is the #1 thing then I’d hold off. I’m thinking one size up may be your max like it was mine. Don’t forget your Satellite radio antenna too, wish they were flat.


Sent from above

[Icutmetl]

6 hours ago, TXGREEK said:

 

Take your time and do it right the first time. I barely made it into one of my standard garages with my DMax and it wasn’t even leveled or lifted, just added one inch taller tire. If being able to get into your garage is the #1 thing then I’d hold off. I’m thinking one size up may be your max like it was mine. Don’t forget your Satellite radio antenna too, wish they were flat.


Sent from above

 

I have about 3”-4” from my XM antenna to my door seal. I’m figuring on about 1.5” or so of lift, and an additional 3/4” on tire radius.

[jimmyboy8301]

36 minutes ago, Icutmetl said:

I have about 3”-4” from my XM antenna to my door seal. I’m figuring on about 1.5” or so of lift, and an additional 3/4” on tire radius.

generally however big the tires is you'll gain 1/2 that in height. if you go up 2" in tire size then obviously you'll net about a 1" gain. 

[Icutmetl]

1 minute ago, jimmyboy8301 said:

generally however big the tires is you'll gain 1/2 that in height. if you go up 2" in tire size then obviously you'll net about a 1" gain. 

Well of course, that’s just basic math. If my factory tires are 32.5” and I’m going to 34” tires; that’s 3/4” on radius, like I mentioned. I don’t expect that to be an exact number; as it doesn’t take into account vehicle weight, etc. 

[jimmyboy8301]

Just now, Icutmetl said:

Well of course, that’s just basic math. If my factory tires are 32.5” and I’m going to 34” tires; that’s 3/4” on radius, like I mentioned. I don’t expect that to be an exact number; as it doesn’t take into account vehicle weight, etc. 

exactly. it definitely looks like a level is your best bet

[Chebbyfan]

I have a cognito level kit on mine.  I have 295/55 20 Cooper STT Pro tires and my truck is about 2 and a half to 3 inches from the opening of a 7' door at the satellite radio antenna.  I adjusted the garage door to open further than the opening so I don't hit the bottom door seal on the garage door.  I found out I can barely get another tire size I think, (I want to do 305/55s), as long as the snow doesn't build up too much.  We just had a foot of snow the other day and I could get in and out with an inch to spare, lol.