Modifying with shocks updates?

Mozzer · February 21, 2019

Definitely best get a matched set, different damping rates front & back can have you off the road. Did that once on my first rally car, wasn't a good weekend. [emoji2961]

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Grinnen · February 22, 2019

What would be a recommended budget friendly set that would be great off road and level the front an inch or 2?

Grumpy Bear · February 22, 2019

On ‎2‎/‎17‎/‎2019 at 8:54 AM, Grinnen said:

I picked up a brand new Sierra SLE (Kodiak) with the tow package a few days ago and it's quite a nice vehicle. I enjoy its 5.3, the comfort of it and what was included.

I've seen a lot of talk of swapping in new shocks to fix the stiff harsh rebound of the OEM shocks. What I haven't seen is anyone coming back to say how the new shocks worked out. I'm interested in changing over to a more supple smooth ride, I don't need to worry about towing or being loaded up in the bed.

In wondering what shocks people have changed to and how they've been working out compared to the oem failings.

47 minutes ago, Grinnen said:

What would be a recommended budget friendly set that would be great off road and level the front an inch or 2?

So the project goal has changed a bit? Looks like we've gone from OEM replacement to Off Road and Lifted. Great off road I might add and on a budget. Help me out here bother. What's the bottom line.

Grinnen · February 22, 2019

I come from years of Jeeping. Fairly good on road, could find parts on a budget that would fit various needs.

Off road always meant softer suspension. Hard suspension is for on road. The harsh suspension is for being able to carry a lot of weight and still have some control.

Maybe the GM world is different and it's not translating properly.

In bit looking at replacing control arms,track bars, keying up the torsion bars to max.

Soft riding suspension is my ideal choice, not rock crawling soft. Think dirt roads,big potholes and being able to soak them up. Not looking at jacking it up but I would like the front leveled a minor amount.

And I'm not looking at spending huge buckets of money.

Grumpy Bear · February 22, 2019

I found that the Bilstein 5100 that allows nearly 1.85" lift is actually a longer stroke damper with a stroke of 4.125" I did not know this until today. This is huge. The factory Rancho/Monroe/Tenneco has a stroke length of only 3.25". I am no longer concerned with the unit topping out on rebound. The Bilstein will also accommodate your stock springs. Another plus. Much better valving.

Out back you get a choice. Bilstein 5100 or 4600. They are internally identical for valving but the 5100 is 1" longer OAL. They will ride identical. Here's the thing. If you plan on leaving the rear ride height alone OR removing the 1.25" spacer the 4600 is the better choice. IF you are going to lift the rear an inch or more the same as the front then the 5100 is a must. The factory shock WILL top out in a lift.

If you insist on the 5100's for a factory or lower height then install a lower shock mount extension. Photo below. Mc Gaughys 34044. It's just a good idea for the 4600 at stock or reasonable lower ride heights. Like 0 - 2 Inches of drop. DO NOT USE 4600 on a lifted truck!!! (rear)

If you lift the front 1.5 to 1.85" and remove the rear spacer lowering it 1.25" the truck will be just a hair forward rake. Like a quarter inch or so. Measure spindle center to fender lip before you start to find the factory rake and ride height then choose your options for level or lift. You will need U bolt spacers of equal length (1.25") to count for the spacer removal. You can use a stack of washers.

You will gain over two inches of travel and a much better ride up front and more control in the back. If you have budget left over I'd install Sulastic rear stock ride height hangers.

These struts run about $125 each, the shocks a bit less. This is the cheap route and still gives a nice result. Should not require a pinion angle correction.

King OEM Quick struts are the top of the food chain running nearly $1,000 a piece. And what do you get for the money at a grand a pop? It's is fully rebuildable and fully tunable. Remote, chargeable adjustable N2 reservoirs up front, piggy backs out back. Built BAJA tough. Top shelf quality and build. Large selection of alternate springs from multiple sources. Dealer support from Filthy Motorsports second to none.

There is a full range of equipment between a $100 and a $1,000. Pick your poison.

Grinnen · February 22, 2019

$1000 a pop is way too much for my tastes. Would be nice though.

Madcow2020 · February 22, 2019

I come from years of Jeeping. Fairly good on road, could find parts on a budget that would fit various needs.

Off road always meant softer suspension. Hard suspension is for on road. The harsh suspension is for being able to carry a lot of weight and still have some control.

Maybe the GM world is different and it's not translating properly.

In bit looking at replacing control arms,track bars, keying up the torsion bars to max.

Soft riding suspension is my ideal choice, not rock crawling soft. Think dirt roads,big potholes and being able to soak them up. Not looking at jacking it up but I would like the front leveled a minor amount.

And I'm not looking at spending huge buckets of money.

You talk about torsion bars and keys. What year is your truck and is it a 1500 or 2500?

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Mozzer · February 22, 2019

I found that the Bilstein 5100 that allows nearly 1.85" lift is actually a longer stroke damper with a stroke of 4.125" I did not know this until today. This is huge. The factory Rancho/Monroe/Tenneco has a stroke length of only 3.25". I am no longer concerned with the unit topping out on rebound. The Bilstein will also accommodate your stock springs. Another plus. Much better valving

If the Billy's travel is 0.875" longer & the total suspension travel at the wheel is about double that of the shock (I think from previous posts), if you have the 5100 on the highest setting will you have slightly less available travel before topping out than standard?

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Grumpy Bear · February 24, 2019

On ‎2‎/‎22‎/‎2019 at 11:58 AM, Mozzer said:

If the Billy's travel is 0.875" longer & the total suspension travel at the wheel is about double that of the shock (I think from previous posts), if you have the 5100 on the highest setting will you have slightly less available travel before topping out than standard?

Generically? True, the way you've worded it. Your question asked for a relative position and not a geometric one. Yes I'm being TROLL conscience here.

But a definitive answer lies in measurements, which I've said before. However, I can offer an opinion.

I have to make some assumptions to even venture a reply as I don't have access to the mechanical drawings. Only the basic dimensions. Meaning I don't know on which grove of the adjustment Bilstein designed the shock to be in the center of it's travel.

I hate assumptions. All I can tell you is that my King setup shares nearly identical stroke dimensions of the 5100's. I run stock steel UCA. I left the droop stops in to protect over ranging in full extension thus protecting the upper ball joints and since I installed the 600 lb. springs it's never topped out. With the supplied 750 lb. springs (meant for a DC or CC V8) it installed topped out and gave over 3" of lift and it didn't top in the body but hitting the droop stops was easy on a washboard. I guess they didn't include the lighter V6 in their calculations.

Point is with the RIGHT spring it provided an inch plus of lift. . With the Bilstein you use your factory spring which is designed to place the shorter factory Monroe/Rancho at mid stroke. Bilstein designed around that intentionally. You can't get the wrong spring thus I opine you will be fine if you don't cut out the stops.

In context I NEVER go off road and I NEVER catch air.....intentionally.

And YES the wheel travel is twice the shock travel. Hope you find this helpful.

Mozzer · February 24, 2019

Helpful indeed, thank you very much.

My application is almost all highway & paved rural roads, my original front suspension is hideous over speed bumps (many of which I have to drive every day), it hits them, swallows almost nothing & the wheels regularly feel like they bounce back off the road again. This is at a pretty slow speed, I'm not trying to drive like the Dakar.

I will try the 5100 shocks first & set a little below top position, if they don't tame things enough I will have to further investigate changing springs.

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Grumpy Bear · February 24, 2019

54 minutes ago, Mozzer said:

Helpful indeed, thank you very much.

My application is almost all highway & paved rural roads, my original front suspension is hideous over speed bumps (many of which I have to drive every day), it hits them, swallows almost nothing & the wheels regularly feel like they bounce back off the road again. This is at a pretty slow speed, I'm not trying to drive like the Dakar.

I will try the 5100 shocks first & set a little below top position, if they don't tame things enough I will have to further investigate changing springs.

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A spring swap for a Bilstein, Monroe, KYB or Gabriel is really difficult. The factory spring shapes are totally different than the aftermarket springs available for shocks like FOX, KING. ICON, EIBACH or VIKING. There is no aftermarket source I am aware of. You need to know that. That said there are allot of people that are very happy with their 5100's and factory springs. Just be aware such reviews are totally subjective.

I would be very interested in your review and opinions on the results if you decide to go ahead with this modification.

Mozzer · February 24, 2019

Yes, I've read through most of the posts in this regard & my thinking is the factory springs come in many different rates & that is a factor in how happy people are with with their new shocks.

The GM parts sites list about 20 different part numbers for front springs for the same year, engine, driveline. I did try asking a Bilstein supplier about that & they weren't aware of different spring rates / lengths from GM.

Also asked GM parts suppliers, all they can do is provide a part number for a specific VIN.

Also nobody seems to know what the references mean for GM suspension parts (6A2. 6CT. 6WW. 7A2. 7CT. 7WW etc) they don't seem to be RPO codes.

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Madcow2020 · February 24, 2019

I’ll sell you some icon adjustable dampening shocks that have 650lbs springs for $1100.00 one needs new seals and have less than 8,000 miles on them. They would be great for leveling and driving on the road.

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