Jump to content

4 Inch Fabtech


Andrew20

Recommended Posts

Posted

Looking for some help here, had a 4 inch fabtech kit installed on my 16 Sierra 1500. Kit has the UCA’s, strut spacer, ball joints, and rear stealth shocks. They stacked the rear blocks giving the truck 1.5” of rake. I like the height in the rear but am wondering if it would be okay to have them put Bilstein 5100 shocks up front and set them at 1” to level out the truck. I’ve had one shop say no shot, and the other said yea won’t be a problem. Shop that said no was 4 Wheel Parts and they were worried about corporate policy. 

 

Thoughts? Thinking it shouldn’t affect the angles too bad...

Posted

I would call/email Fabtech and ask them but their kit is probably not meant to go any higher.  

Posted

 

 

You should never stack rear blocks. I would remove those and replace with the proper height rear block to level it with the front. That 4" kit is already over stretched so I would not recommend adding any more height to the front.

I'd like to see a picture of your front angles as they are now.

Posted

Thanks for the feedback guys, angles aren’t bad, see the picture. I didn’t know they were stacking the rear blocks. Fabtechs site says you can but the shop never asked. 

7631F3E5-F069-421B-938E-54B00569D810.jpeg

Posted

those angles are definitely steep and i would NOT go any higher. also as said, do not stack blocks. I'd like to say i'm surprised that 4 wheel parts did that, but nothing people do surprises me anymore 

Posted
Thanks for the feedback guys, angles aren’t bad, see the picture. I didn’t know they were stacking the rear blocks. Fabtechs site says you can but the shop never asked. 
7631F3E5-F069-421B-938E-54B00569D810.thumb.jpeg.d34362884daf5916f1ede2c14d5aa835.jpeg

I wouldn’t go any higher like Wildchevys said angles are pretty steep. Any side shots and what’s your wheel and tire setup?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

The whole set up is the 4 inch fabtech kit, 33x12.5 nitto ridgegrapplers, and Havok H109 20x10 -24 offset. Side shot below. 

D56732EE-659C-433A-BE04-C27097659C46.jpeg

Posted
The whole set up is the 4 inch fabtech kit, 33x12.5 nitto ridgegrapplers, and Havok H109 20x10 -24 offset. Side shot below. 
D56732EE-659C-433A-BE04-C27097659C46.thumb.jpeg.6f4041dd4f25b7655b40b440e6151030.jpeg

Looks good did you have to trim any and do you have any rubbing? Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

Yes I did, took a hammer and knocked back the corner of the inner fender just a little bit, not much. Then just took a grinder and cut the edge of the plastic corner piece off. Also zip tied the felt liner back to the frame to keep it out of the way. Doesn’t rub at all now. 

Posted

Those angles seem steep to me. I would hesitate to go higher with that set up. You may run into shortened lifetime of your half shafts.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.6k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,992
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    liddlera
    Newest Member
    liddlera
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 698 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Indeed a proper drain tap or drain valve with adapter that has a hose on it that opens up the valve as the adapter goes on is a slick setup and have that for certain highway tractors etc and other equipment that came from the factory with a tap but this L8T is pretty darned good other than me doing it on the floor and easy to touch hot exhaust and am not as agile as I used to be !. If I really want to pull a hot filter on an engine I will use an insulated set of thick neoprene gauntlet gloves but I am not in the hurry I used to need to be so things are done more relaxed and in theory somewhat safer ... I think LOL.    And as I mentioned the unique shape of the Amsoil 1 quart containers, while they might not work as well as an offset pour spout container for some awkward engine location applications, they are working a lot better with my Lisle funnel kit because of how they prop up on all four corners when upside down resting on the rim of the funnel where the typical quart container would never stay put without holding onto it. 
    • Well, I just hit 100K a few weeks back, and I can honestly say I have not had any major issues with my '21 5.3 Crew cab.  I have done most routine maintenance, oil changes, air filter, tire rotations, and a transmission drain and filter change (not even a full flush).  A couple of months ago, I started experiencing the dreaded CLUNK when coming to a stop, sometimes hard enough to literally push the truck forward! After researching here and in other forums/youtube videos, etc, I was thinking it's the slip yoke. I finally had a chance to take it to my local mechanic today, and he was not able to recreate the issue.  Amazing, since it does it nearly every time I drive.  He also said he can't simply grease my slip yoke/driveshaft splines, because I have a 1 piece driveshaft.  I am not sure what else I can do.  Has anyone else had this issue or have any idea what else it could be?
    • This is where the Fumoto drain valve comes in handy.  No mess and able to change oil hot, like right off the interstate hot.  Flows nice and you can direct it into a container. As for the oil filter, I use an old dixie cup or plastic one from McDonalds. It contains the oil as you pull the filter down and not all over your hand.
    • Well, if it did change from lifters to rocker arms, at least it would be easier to fix as they fail.
    • Doesn't hurt to try.  It's my understanding that you have to run it at least 4 or 5 oil changes for things to get clean.  Think about it, your engine didn't get dirty in just an oil change so over time it will slowly clean. It's the safest way to do it and not have seal issues.      I remember  a product that came out a long time ago, AutoRX, it was an additive you put in the oil and then drove for 3k miles. Some saw improvements and some didn't. It was suggested to use a non synthetic with it at the time. Same observation, use a couple oil changes and give it time to work. It also stated it worked best if you could drive on trips to keep the oil hot.  I'm sure if you ask AI it could tell you all about it.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...