Jump to content

New 2019 - question from Ford defector


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi all, I picked up a 2019 Trail Boss a week or so ago, and I have to say I'm having a ball with it.  This is my first GM vehicle after owning Ford all of my life.

 

I had one question, what is the best way to touch up the frame?  The only negative in my eyes is the wax coated frame.  I have a few small sections where the wax has rubbed off more than likely during assembly.

 

I was going to purchase the Daubert Nox Rust aerosol spray, but I would prefer using something a bit less toxic.  Can I clean the effected areas, then spray/brush on oil to protect the bare metal?  Main thing is, I don't want the oil to react with the wax coating, and begin to loosen/flake off.  Any particular oil?

 

I'm going to the ocean in a few months and want to make sure the nicks on my frame are good and coated.  I'll be driving on the beach a good bit, but will avoid the direct salt water.

 

Appreciate it!

Posted

Cavity and frame wax aerosol kit by Rusfrē. Includes 2 cans, nozzles, hose, and hose cleaner. Tptools.com.

Posted
41 minutes ago, Bftx said:

Hi all, I picked up a 2019 Trail Boss a week or so ago, and I have to say I'm having a ball with it.  This is my first GM vehicle after owning Ford all of my life.

 

I had one question, what is the best way to touch up the frame?  The only negative in my eyes is the wax coated frame.  I have a few small sections where the wax has rubbed off more than likely during assembly.

 

I was going to purchase the Daubert Nox Rust aerosol spray, but I would prefer using something a bit less toxic.  Can I clean the effected areas, then spray/brush on oil to protect the bare metal?  Main thing is, I don't want the oil to react with the wax coating, and begin to loosen/flake off.  Any particular oil?

 

I'm going to the ocean in a few months and want to make sure the nicks on my frame are good and coated.  I'll be driving on the beach a good bit, but will avoid the direct salt water.

 

Appreciate it!

Glad you deflected SIR!  Don't worry about driving in the ocean or on the beach it's the same?  Once your there it's in the air.....you will be fine!

Posted

Any type of petroleum/ oil based product is likely to soften and act as a solvent against the frame coating. It also will not last/ protect as long as the wax coating does.

 

Not sure why the “toxicity” of the Daubert spray coating really matters...from the areas you showed in the other thread, probably 1/8th of a can will do, and it’s no more noxious than any other kind of paint. 

 

I would vote to keep it simple and touch it up with what’s already on there, and Daubert is the same as OE. 

Posted
4 minutes ago, OnTheReel said:

Any type of petroleum/ oil based product is likely to soften and act as a solvent against the frame coating. It also will not last/ protect as long as the wax coating does.

 

Not sure why the “toxicity” of the Daubert spray coating really matters...from the areas you showed in the other thread, probably 1/8th of a can will do, and it’s no more noxious than any other kind of paint. 

 

I would vote to keep it simple and touch it up with what’s already on there, and Daubert is the same as OE. 

I don't believe I've posted pictures of the spots.  They are no bigger than a finger tip, and would just need a quick spray.  No rust has formed on the smudges.

 

Sounds good, I might as well just go with the Nox Rust.

Posted

i have been touching up the frame on my truck with the NOX rust and its been flawless. i was down on the frame wax too but so far so good.

Posted
3 minutes ago, Rkaroll953 said:

i have been touching up the frame on my truck with the NOX rust and its been flawless. i was down on the frame wax too but so far so good.

Any particular way you apply?  I'm assuming since I have no rust on the areas rubbed off, I can just wipe clean with a rag, then spray?

Posted
Just now, Bftx said:

Any particular way you apply?  I'm assuming since I have no rust on the areas rubbed off, I can just wipe clean with a rag, then spray?

honestly i caught it before it got rusty, i just lightly wire brushed it and then sprayed it. did not try and over think it

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,737
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Christopher Miller
    Newest Member
    Christopher Miller
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 2 Anonymous, 1,529 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Without knowing how bad your banging is, one suggestion is the intermediate steering shaft on the steering wheel. These used to be a problem on 800 and earlier series. The feeling/sound was sometimes described as "clunking" and was felt in the wheel. Also there is a plastic piece in the lower column that is referred to as a bearing. Not your traditional looking bearing though. Your ball joints, bushings and tie rods or steering rack (if equipped) are the main point of issues. You never mention total unit miles, only that you've put 60k on it.   You can search the site for help on the ISS description. Plenty of these have been replaced   https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=site%3Agm-trucks.com+intermediate+steering+shaft&ia=web
    • Yes I have is set with the 1mm disk (Minumim Tension), for spring spacing and I raised my truck in the rear 1.5". You can go 2mm  and I think 3mm if you need.Minimum. We are on our way to TN from GA.. My wife is driving and stated she cannot believe  and   stated she can not belive the difference.
    • Most 1 ton trucks come with the factory overload spring, which need to be removed for installation of RoadActive Suspension. Removing the overload allows proper fitment and ensures the system works as intended. The RAS® Mega-Duty kit will reduce squat and provide significant improvement vs the factory overload spring.
    • I wonder as well, why they would send me a text message with links to these suggested procedures totalling over $10,000 without even the slightest hint of how they arrived at these being necessary.
    • https://precisionlubrication.com/articles/oil-filter-efficiency/     For them it is a problem of $$$$ and compliance. To cover both they have to lie from the heart.    Government wants low waste oil numbers so the bar needs to be very low on contamination to met that requirement.  Consumer wants cheap maintenance (perceived cost). Again requiring a low bar.  OEM wants high margins at a cost effective warranty rate and lots of repeat customers. More low bar.  Filter manufacture wants the same thing the OEM wants. See the pattern?   Consumers are fickle and also want perfection requiring a HIGH bar. Inconsistent with all of the above. Consumers can be, when the put their minds to it, inquisitive, love winning arguments which requires some useful information to be available to support them. And this is where it gets sticky and the lies begin.    Information needs a solid well grounded point of reference if we are to compare in a useful way. There is a standard for this.  ISO 4548-12. This standard sets the particle size at a specific Beta ratio and darn few are faithful to its intent.    If they don't state the test method they change the particle size or the Beta ratio to hit a perceived favorable standard. They obscure the information in a way as to prevent direct comparisons leaving the consumer with one method. UOA's with an ISO 4406 test result. Pricey and not allot of labs willing to do the work. Lobby work happens everywhere, not just at the seat of government.       
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...