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Posted

So i purchased a set of speakers for the doors of the truck and i’m still unimpressed. So now i’m looking to add an amp but i’m looking to not cut up factory wiring and as plug and play as possible without amplifying the chimes or turn signals.  I have no clue where to start and need suggestions.  Btw the truck is a 2016 silverado 8 inch screen non bose.

Posted

Price range will determine a lot. I went NavTv M650-GM. It does what you ask and provides ability to Amp all 5 channels with out worrying about chime and phone leveling. There are cheaper ways too.

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Posted
So i purchased a set of speakers for the doors of the truck and i’m still unimpressed. So now i’m looking to add an amp but i’m looking to not cut up factory wiring and as plug and play as possible without amplifying the chimes or turn signals.  I have no clue where to start and need suggestions.  Btw the truck is a 2016 silverado 8 inch screen non bose.

I have the same truck with same options. You will need a digital signal processor of some sort and amplifier to get better sound out of the stock head unit. I used a bit10 Audison DSP and Sundown 1100.5 amplifier. A little pricey but the sound is incredible.

 

 

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Posted
28 minutes ago, mikedeezxxx said:

I have the same truck with same options. You will need a digital signal processor of some sort and amplifier to get better sound out of the stock head unit. I used a bit10 Audison DSP and Sundown 1100.5 amplifier. A little pricey but the sound is incredible.

 

 

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Okay and did you cut into factory wiring or is it plug and play?

Posted

Look for a plug-and-play harness here...

https://lljcustoms.com/

 

You also do not necessarily need a digital sound processor, you can also use an amp with high-level inputs. I run a Rockford Fosgate Mono amp to a 12" subwoofer. The amp also has the ability to connect another amp inline using the RCAs as passthrough. Keep in mind I used a harness and tapped into the rear speakers of a Bose system to connect the high level inputs, which you will need to do in some way, via amp or processor. I saved money not having to buy a processor. 

 

 

 

Posted
Look for a plug-and-play harness here...

https://lljcustoms.com/

 

You also do not necessarily need a digital sound processor, you can also use an amp with high-level inputs. I run a Rockford Fosgate Mono amp to a 12" subwoofer. The amp also has the ability to connect another amp inline using the RCAs as passthrough. Keep in mind I used a harness and tapped into the rear speakers of a Bose system to connect the high level inputs, which you will need to do in some way, via amp or processor. I saved money not having to buy a processor. 

 

 

 

If you dont have a bose system the sound output wil clip at a little more then half the volume. For non bose systems its nessary. My kicker zx750 has the high level input option. I spliced into the back doors and at first I thought I blew my Re SE SUB. It actually was just the sub clipping at said volume level. Currently saving for a DSP because I'd like to amplify all of the mids and the sub. The base model radio setup wont cut it.

 

To add to this if you were to go the route of just splicing to the rears speakers in your options are one amp only or a dsp and amp. Not speakers in the doors and amp. Anything over just one amp and the headunit acts up i.e. freezes and lags.

 

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Posted

A sub can clip simply from the amp not being set up right. My amp has frequency and gain adjustments and I can easily cause clipping to kill the sub in no time. But I cant speak for non-Bose systems, though as long as you get a signal from the headunit it should be usable, but tuning is very important. Even with a DSP it pays to have it tuned with an oscilloscope if a nearby shop has one. 

Posted
A sub can clip simply from the amp not being set up right. My amp has frequency and gain adjustments and I can easily cause clipping to kill the sub in no time. But I cant speak for non-Bose systems, though as long as you get a signal from the headunit it should be usable, but tuning is very important. Even with a DSP it pays to have it tuned with an oscilloscope if a nearby shop has one. 
This is true. In this situation its just not getting the power it needs from the head unit. Been an audiophile since I was a kid like 20 years ago and have setup many systems perfectly with ears and a volt meter. The non bose HU just doesnt have the juice undortunatly. If i had tons of $$$$ I'd do a test on my truck and a few neighbor buds to show what im talking about. This is one thing no one ever talks about in detail. Its always assumed just throwing a harness and ready to go. Not so in the case of the non bose. [emoji20][emoji19]

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Posted

O scope if done correctly but you need to find clipping of the headunit first and all setting must be flat.  Its best to use a dsp in this case that way you dont have to adjust the headunit

Posted

I just upgraded the non- Bose 8” screen system in my 2016 Silverado. I had the same concerns, that I did not want any factory wires cut and spliced in the installation process. 

Installer used a PAC  AP4-GM64 harness to connect  the the audio system to an Audison Prima FORZA AP F8.9 bit amp. Simple PlugAndPlay connections. 

 

Replaced the front door speakers and dash tweeters with BLAM 6.5  S165.85 components.  Back doors speakers replaced with BLAM 6.5 R165RC coaxials.  Still on the fence regarding adding a subwoofer.  Sounds so much better than the factory setup.  The alert chimes volume is also adjustable thanks to the Audison  amp features. 

 

Additionally, it can all be easily removed and returned to factory condition if I sell the truck. 

Posted
3 hours ago, Jonthecon said:

I just upgraded the non- Bose 8” screen system in my 2016 Silverado. I had the same concerns, that I did not want any factory wires cut and spliced in the installation process. 

Installer used a PAC  AP4-GM64 harness to connect  the the audio system to an Audison Prima FORZA AP F8.9 bit amp. Simple PlugAndPlay connections. 

 

Replaced the front door speakers and dash tweeters with BLAM 6.5  S165.85 components.  Back doors speakers replaced with BLAM 6.5 R165RC coaxials.  Still on the fence regarding adding a subwoofer.  Sounds so much better than the factory setup.  The alert chimes volume is also adjustable thanks to the Audison  amp features. 

 

Additionally, it can all be easily removed and returned to factory condition if I sell the truck. 

So did you replace the factory head unit or just add a harness, amp, and some speakers?

 

I heard others saying how they end up amping the chimes, they are already to dang loud...lol

Posted
18 hours ago, Snowcamo said:

This is true. In this situation its just not getting the power it needs from the head unit. Been an audiophile since I was a kid like 20 years ago and have setup many systems perfectly with ears and a volt meter. The non bose HU just doesnt have the juice undortunatly. If i had tons of $$$$ I'd do a test on my truck and a few neighbor buds to show what im talking about. This is one thing no one ever talks about in detail. Its always assumed just throwing a harness and ready to go. Not so in the case of the non bose. emoji20.pngemoji19.png

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Twenty years ago I was busy every weekend installing gear from head units to amps, crossovers, equalizers, and speakers galore. I had one car that I installed 7 different head units into over the time I had it. I can recall switching out  between Rockford, Sony, EarthQuake, Pioneer, MTX, Orion, and many other brand components. I guess I am still baffled on the headunit output not being enough, if it is sending enough wattage to a speaker otherwise I would think it would work. Heck, my friends had the worst head units ever back in the day, Sparkomatic and Kraco and they still had systems worthy of a look and listen. I know with the Bose systems the signal is alot different but still easy to tap into to add an amp or replace all together. 

 

 

Posted
Twenty years ago I was busy every weekend installing gear from head units to amps, crossovers, equalizers, and speakers galore. I had one car that I installed 7 different head units into over the time I had it. I can recall switching out  between Rockford, Sony, EarthQuake, Pioneer, MTX, Orion, and many other brand components. I guess I am still baffled on the headunit output not being enough, if it is sending enough wattage to a speaker otherwise I would think it would work. Heck, my friends had the worst head units ever back in the day, Sparkomatic and Kraco and they still had systems worthy of a look and listen. I know with the Bose systems the signal is alot different but still easy to tap into to add an amp or replace all together. 
 
 
It doesn't have enough voltage output. That's what three problem is. Dig into checking amplifier output with a volt meter set to AC a little bit. Its really not hard to understand. It's more to it than just having output from a source. If you look through the different head unit manufacturers and different levels of said head units look at the RCA output voltage. The low end put out about two volts. The high end units usually put out about 5 volts. The DSP change this the low output into a higher output restores the sound and all. Makes it clean and provides More Voltage to your amp.

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Posted
So did you replace the factory head unit or just add a harness, amp, and some speakers?
 
I heard others saying how they end up amping the chimes, they are already to dang loud...lol
https://www.audison.eu/products/ap-f8-9-bit/

That amp has a digital sound processor within it. It's one of the better companies to choose from. It's also about a grand or so I'll be saving up for something just like that.

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Posted

Used the factory head unit. The Audison amp has a built in DSP and plenty of power for my application. I wasn’t familiar with the BLAM speaker line. Not many reviews available, but they sound incredible. Also applied SoundSkin to the doors and foam speaker rings to the door speakers. 

Considering adding a subwoofer when I can rat hole a few more bucks. I believe the  quest for mo better is a sickness with no cure. 

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