Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
1 hour ago, Truckboy said:

I just pick up a 2017 Silverado Z71 and I’m having the same problem. Took it back to the dealership and they said it might be air pressure since it was at 47. Too high can make it too bouncy. So they brought it down to 35. Still having the problem. Are you still having the problem or did you get it fixed? If so, how? Please let me know because it’s bugging the ****** out of me. 

Welcome to the site.

 

You asked a question to a thread that is almost a year old, use the quote function and it will send a message to the last post.

 

You have the Z71 suspension, so it will have a tendency to do what you are describing, weight in the bed, or go with a "softer" shock and see what it does for you.

Posted
1 hour ago, JimCost2014 said:

Welcome to the site.

 

You asked a question to a thread that is almost a year old, use the quote function and it will send a message to the last post.

 

You have the Z71 suspension, so it will have a tendency to do what you are describing, weight in the bed, or go with a "softer" shock and see what it does for you.

Sorry I’m new to this. I was searching around on why this is happening to my almost new truck and came across this so first thing I did was comment on it..

 

Anyway, so the Z71 suspensions have the tendency of doing this? Within this first week of having the truck, I’ve had three close calls on the highway already because I practically lose control of the truck. You’re telling me it’s normal?..

Posted
1 hour ago, JimCost2014 said:

Welcome to the site.

 

You asked a question to a thread that is almost a year old, use the quote function and it will send a message to the last post.

 

You have the Z71 suspension, so it will have a tendency to do what you are describing, weight in the bed, or go with a "softer" shock and see what it does for you.

Can it be bad shocks like everyone else says it is? 

Posted
1 minute ago, Truckboy said:

Sorry I’m new to this. I was searching around on why this is happening to my almost new truck and came across this so first thing I did was comment on it..

 

Anyway, so the Z71 suspensions have the tendency of doing this? Within this first week of having the truck, I’ve had three close calls on the highway already because I practically lose control of the truck. You’re telling me it’s normal?..

You are doing just fine, already know how to use the quote to get a members attention. 

 

No, not normal, describe the speeds you are experiencing the problem. I would also look under the truck to make sure your shocks are not leaking, they are Factory grade Rancho's, not bad, but not the best either.

Posted
12 hours ago, JimCost2014 said:

You are doing just fine, already know how to use the quote to get a members attention. 

 

No, not normal, describe the speeds you are experiencing the problem. I would also look under the truck to make sure your shocks are not leaking, they are Factory grade Rancho's, not bad, but not the best either.

By just going 30-40 mph and going over bumps and potholes(sewage caps), rear end of my truck would jump/jerk/sway to the side. Now just imagine going 50-65 mph on the highway going over bumps and potholes, and the truck jumping to side going that fast. It can get pretty scary. I know some people may argue the fact that the bed is too light, but I don’t think it’s normal to have it jerking/jumping to the side like that. There just has to be a better valid reason why this is happening.  

Posted
12 hours ago, JimCost2014 said:

You are doing just fine, already know how to use the quote to get a members attention. 

 

No, not normal, describe the speeds you are experiencing the problem. I would also look under the truck to make sure your shocks are not leaking, they are Factory grade Rancho's, not bad, but not the best either.

Also, the sales person that sold me the car at the dealership is saying it’s because of the Z71 suspension. I told him it can’t be, because I have a 2002 Z71, it’s pretty much a pice of crap at this point but it rides perfectly fine. So I’m here telling myself no, it can not be the Z71 suspensions. It just can’t be. It can’t be normal. If this is normal and this is how GM makes them, I wish I would’ve known so I would’ve stayed away from them. So I’m really really trying to find a solution to this because right now I feel like s**t for spending $30k on a 2017 truck that rides like crap. Please, please help if you guys can. 

Posted
22 minutes ago, Truckboy said:

Also, the sales person that sold me the car at the dealership is saying it’s because of the Z71 suspension. I told him it can’t be, because I have a 2002 Z71, it’s pretty much a pice of crap at this point but it rides perfectly fine. So I’m here telling myself no, it can not be the Z71 suspensions. It just can’t be. It can’t be normal. If this is normal and this is how GM makes them, I wish I would’ve known so I would’ve stayed away from them. So I’m really really trying to find a solution to this because right now I feel like s**t for spending $30k on a 2017 truck that rides like crap. Please, please help if you guys can. 

How many miles on the truck? If out of warranty, did you buy it as a Certified Pre Owned?

 

And one question that is going to come up, how long did you have it on the test drive, and where did you go? Did they keep you close to the dealer, all surface streets, or did you go out on a highway/freeway?

Posted
12 minutes ago, JimCost2014 said:

How many miles on the truck? If out of warranty, did you buy it as a Certified Pre Owned?

 

And one question that is going to come up, how long did you have it on the test drive, and where did you go? Did they keep you close to the dealer, all surface streets, or did you go out on a highway/freeway?

43,****** miles on the truck. I don’t believe it’s a certified pre owned but I did purchase the protection plan that covers everything except cosmetic work. So I know those shocks are cover if it’s really bad. 
 

Posted
Just now, Truckboy said:

43,****** miles on the truck. I don’t believe it’s a certified pre owned but I did purchase the protection plan that covers everything except cosmetic work. So I know those shocks are cover if it’s really bad. 
 

*43,000 miles 

Posted
1 minute ago, Truckboy said:

*43,000 miles 

Check out the Bilstein threads on here, maybe that is a way to go.

Posted
9 minutes ago, JimCost2014 said:

Check out the Bilstein threads on here, maybe that is a way to go.

Sorry I have no idea on how to do that. Lol. Again I’m not usually on these kinds of things... 

Posted
21 minutes ago, Truckboy said:

Sorry I have no idea on how to do that. Lol. Again I’m not usually on these kinds of things... 

No problem, not the easiest site to navigate.

 

Two ways (well kind of) top of page under your log in, there is a search tab, works ok.

Other way is to go on your internet search engine of choice, example, plug in Bilstein shocks for a 2017 Silverado on Gm-trucks.com, scroll down the page till you see the site, and click on.

Posted
9 minutes ago, JimCost2014 said:

No problem, not the easiest site to navigate.

 

 

Two ways (well kind of) top of page under your log in, there is a search tab, works ok.

Other way is to go on your internet search engine of choice, example, plug in Bilstein shocks for a 2017 Silverado on Gm-trucks.com, scroll down the page till you see the site, and click on.

Ok thanks 

Posted
12 minutes ago, JimCost2014 said:

No problem, not the easiest site to navigate.

 

 

Two ways (well kind of) top of page under your log in, there is a search tab, works ok.

Other way is to go on your internet search engine of choice, example, plug in Bilstein shocks for a 2017 Silverado on Gm-trucks.com, scroll down the page till you see the site, and click on.

So do you think it’s best if I just buy belsteins and put them on instead of having dealership replace them with new ranchos? 

Posted
2 minutes ago, Truckboy said:

Ok thanks 

You are very welcome.

 

Let me know if you find something helpful?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...