Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

... just a note, but this thread is a year old, so the O.P. most likely has already made a decision as to which brakes to go with...

  • Like 1
  • 10 months later...
Posted

I can put a nail in this:

 

2020 Sierra AT4 3.0 w/performance brake upgrade

 

Currently at dealership being told new shake we were feeling was warped rotors. Tech says the material of the rotor is to blame. They are going to file them down once and if it happens again they will replace them... with the same rotors :very mad face:

 

Dont get em, not worth it

 

Any advice on how to proceed with dealer?

Posted

My opinion on the performance brakes are:

 

1) The price on them is ridiculous!

 

2) Unless you take your truck to the race track and race it around, I don’t see the point in it. The stock brakes work just fine for everyday driving experience. 
 

3) I can find a lot of things to spend $2500 on instead of these, like a nice used car or work truck to leave mine in garage on $h!tty days. 
 

 

Posted
1 hour ago, TNTSilverado said:

My opinion on the performance brakes are:

 

1) The price on them is ridiculous!

 

2) Unless you take your truck to the race track and race it around, I don’t see the point in it. The stock brakes work just fine for everyday driving experience. 
 

3) I can find a lot of things to spend $2500 on instead of these, like a nice used car or work truck to leave mine in garage on $h!tty days. 
 

 

I was going for increased braking capability when towing... sounds reasonable enough for 2500

Posted
1 hour ago, pseudokev said:

I was going for increased braking capability when towing... sounds reasonable enough for 2500

What do you tow? I have a boat and have never had any issues with braking. And just a heads up there are TONS of aftermarket brakes and pads that are a FAR CRY from $2500. 

  • Like 2
Posted

I had the front wheels off of my 2020 Silverado Custom with the 5.3  and  got a good look at the front brakes.  The discs are massive and the calipers are the fixed four piston design rather than sliders.  I've had plenty of big time Wilwood and Bahr brakes on my rods and customs.  These stock GM brakes compare very favorably.

I suggest caliper covers or paint if your want to dude your brakes up.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted

2019 Sierra CC SB NHT 6.2

62,000 Miles

the Brembo Brake package will be on all my future trucks...

Only negative I see with them is the loss of front pad life monitor...

They are so much better than stock in emergency braking situations.  I have always had issues with warping but these are staying true.

Posted
4 hours ago, wacko said:

2019 Sierra CC SB NHT 6.2

62,000 Miles

the Brembo Brake package will be on all my future trucks...

Only negative I see with them is the loss of front pad life monitor...

They are so much better than stock in emergency braking situations.  I have always had issues with warping but these are staying true.

good to hear! I am very happy with them when they aren't warped lol

 

The dealer machined them and told me it shouldn't happen again... soooo... I guess I am just going to go with that heh

Posted

The 2019+ brakes are already an upgrade from previous years.  The 6 piston calipers would be nice, especially since I tow a camper.   But at $2500+ it's pretty pricey.   For about a total of $600 I'm sure you could significantly reduce stopping distance with some good EBC pads and good slotted rotors.

 

Also, remember if you do the big brake upgrade your brake services get more expensive too.  On other vehicles with option brake upgrades I've seen 2-4 times the price just for pads alone.

 

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I ordered my 21 sierra with the brembo upgrade and it is absolutely worth it.  Yes i wish they matched the rear calipers accordingly but they have great braking over stock brakes  and even better when big wheels are put on these trucks. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,358 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
    • Sure about that? A degree wheel and a dial indicator would lower your degree of assurance in that statement. 😉    It why we have offset keys and dialable timing sprockets. Just say'n.... I've built a few and have never seen one "On the money". 
    • I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
    • That part I understand, that the dealer can do it. But I'm not understanding why updates that were available to the truck since it left the factory, or the dealership originally, would not still be available to it without dealer intervention.   I'm thinking along the lines of recalls. They stay available until they are completed, regardless of whether they are in warranty or not, or in the hands of the original owner or not. Why not updates as well, especially since some of those can be safety related also?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...