How to Delete Brake Vacuum Pump (Video)

[VdellaV]

Update:

 

Everything has been great since the Delete, no issues.

 

I still check everything every once in a while, no problems have manifested themselves, Truck is running great

[CANUCK88]

First of all, thank you for the R&D with the vacuum pump delete and for going through with your plan and documenting it for the rest of us. Greatly appreciated!

 

now, some questions regarding crankcase evacuation system :

 

1.a) do check engine codes come up?

1.b) Can you delete/tune those codes out permanently?

 

2) Does your tail pipe get black and smokey after a while? Better than that fouled air being fed back into the engine though I suppose

 

3) Did you drill and weld in at two points for both vents or "T" in to one line?

4) Are check valves necessary to prevent backdraft??

 

5) Could frigid canadian winters have negative effects on evac system? Such as, condensation freezing in line/check valve and pluging it shut, thus causing a pressure build up...

 

Maybe this isn't the right thread for these questions but haven't found concrete answers and begining to bang head on the wall with catch can vs evac debate ... any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[James Dink]

if you have 4 cyl mode turned off there is no check engine lights 

[VdellaV]

On 3/24/2021 at 12:20 PM, CANUCK88 said:

First of all, thank you for the R&D with the vacuum pump delete and for going through with your plan and documenting it for the rest of us. Greatly appreciated!

 

now, some questions regarding crankcase evacuation system :

 

1.a) do check engine codes come up?

1.b) Can you delete/tune those codes out permanently?

 

2) Does your tail pipe get black and smokey after a while? Better than that fouled air being fed back into the engine though I suppose

 

3) Did you drill and weld in at two points for both vents or "T" in to one line?

4) Are check valves necessary to prevent backdraft??

 

5) Could frigid canadian winters have negative effects on evac system? Such as, condensation freezing in line/check valve and pluging it shut, thus causing a pressure build up...

 

Maybe this isn't the right thread for these questions but haven't found concrete answers and begining to bang head on the wall with catch can vs evac debate ... any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Answered on the other Topic you commented on, but i see the points here are different; Happy to be of help!

 

1.- No check engine Lights, the engine does not have any PCV related sensors. Just put the Crankcase evac AFTER the exhaust O2 sensors LOL

 

2.- TailPipe doesnt get dirtier than normal

 

3.- Just 1 point in the exhaust, getting fed by one of the valve covers. I want to make a Y or T to feed it with bolth valve covers but just for symmetry.

 

4.- No, since no exhaust  backdrafts (I thoroughly checked)

 

5.- I dont think so, there is not enough water in the line to cause problems, and if there is, the moment you fire up the truck, heat would take care of any of that and blow it out the exhaust.

 

 

[peejaykay]

This seems way too simple. My brake booster is acting funny, already had some kind of a recall done on it where the dealer increased pressures. Lately though, especially in low speed traffic, I'm getting the abs activated even though the wheels are not locking up. Thus, pointing me to a soon to fail brake booster. 

 

So basically the steps are: disable 4 cyl mode, cut belt, remove booster, fill holes with plugs and re-route some piping as stated in post 1?

[James Dink]

yes

[Little Yimmy]

Did something similar, but I teed into the pcv line to keep that function. Kept  the vacuum pump and used two check valves so the stronger source runs the brakes. Run in M5 to stay in v8 mode. No more scary  parking lot.

Edited April 20, 2021 by Little Yimmy
Updated repair and wanted to keep the post accurate.

[taylormjones3]

Very cool and it seems straight forward. Is there any reason you can't remove the vacuum pump belt and just leave the pump on? As long as the pump isn't turning, it wont grenade itself, right?

[David Saville]

I have a 2018 5.3 Silverado,truck is not included in the recall, I replaced the vacuum pump, line and grommet.  Still having brake issues, Yesterday I did the bypass from the intake manifold to the booster(I have a plug to disable AFM), I followed the video exactly, test drive did not go well, still have issues, any ideas on what to do next?

[VdellaV]

On 7/28/2022 at 9:10 AM, taylormjones3 said:

Very cool and it seems straight forward. Is there any reason you can't remove the vacuum pump belt and just leave the pump on? As long as the pump isn't turning, it wont grenade itself, right?

 

I don't see why that couldn't work, i have read of people doing it 

 

 

3 hours ago, David Saville said:

I have a 2018 5.3 Silverado,truck is not included in the recall, I replaced the vacuum pump, line and grommet.  Still having brake issues, Yesterday I did the bypass from the intake manifold to the booster(I have a plug to disable AFM), I followed the video exactly, test drive did not go well, still have issues, any ideas on what to do next?

 

What exactly is the problem? Does the pedal just feel stiff and hard ?

 

Now that your vacuum is being pulled by the engine, you could troubleshoot with carb cleaner for leaks. I would thoroughly check also brake lines and pads/rotors just for peace of mind

 

I also found this video on how to test for a bad Brake Booster, if carb cleaner doesnt uncover vacuum leaks

 

 

[David Saville]

33 minutes ago, VdellaV said:

 

I don't see why that couldn't work, i have read of people doing it 

 

 

 

What exactly is the problem? Does the pedal just feel stiff and hard ?

 

Now that your vacuum is being pulled by the engine, you could troubleshoot with carb cleaner for leaks. I would thoroughly check also brake lines and pads/rotors just for peace of mind

 

I also found this video on how to test for a bad Brake Booster, if carb cleaner doesnt uncover vacuum leaks

 

 

 

[David Saville]

Just now, David Saville said:

 

The brake pedal gets hard at low RPM, especially stopped at traffic lights and driving in parking lots, very bad when backing the boat down the ramp.  I did allthe tests in the above video for the booster and it all passed.  I do on occasion get the brake pedal to the floor and it feels like the brakes are grinding but I can't hear them, then when I rev up or accelerate, the brakes work fine.  I get the brake assist light when I get the hard pedal and the floored pedal.

[VdellaV]

1 minute ago, David Saville said:

The brake pedal gets hard at low RPM, especially stopped at traffic lights and driving in parking lots, very bad when backing the boat down the ramp.  I did allthe tests in the above video for the booster and it all passed.  I do on occasion get the brake pedal to the floor and it feels like the brakes are grinding but I can't hear them, then when I rev up or accelerate, the brakes work fine.  I get the brake assist light when I get the hard pedal and the floored pedal.

 

Did you connect the brake booster to the intake manifold with one uninterrupted line like i did in my video?

 

Also, that line cant be just any normal hose, it has to be harder so vacuum doesnt suck it closed.

 

If everything else is fine, the only thing left would be to change the Brake booster itself

[David Saville]

Yes, I bought a 3/8 vacuum hose from Napa.  My friend connected his snap on tester to the truck, I was getting 12lbs of vacuum with the vacuum pump with slow recovery, I was only getting 10 lbs with the vacuum coming from the manifold, but recovery time was quick

[David Saville]

Replaced booster, all is good.  I'm guessing the original vacuum pump is still good, I may hold on to it just in case, or just do the delete all together if I end up having issues with it.