How to Delete Brake Vacuum Pump (Video)

VdellaV · November 10, 2019

Hello everyone!

After 3 years of having it in mind, I finally decided to Delete the Mechanical Brake Vacuum Pump on my L83. And I made a How to video, for those interested for a DIY or How-To its in the bottom of this post, but please read this before you watch it

Why would you decide to Delete your Vacuum Pump? It all started years ago reading horror stories of how the Belt Driven Vacuum Pumps fail on 2014+ K2XX trucks, leaving you without brakes, and even damaging the engine. But finally it came together a few days ago after GM issued Recall N192268490 so i decided to glove-up and do some wrenching about it.

So here is what I did to Delete my Brake Vacuum Pump, I hope it helps someone else thinking about maybe doing it themselves. I think this procedure works on any Truck/SUV in the K2XX family with SBC Gen V LT L83, L86 and LV3 engines (Chevrolet Silverados, Tahoes, Suburbans, and GMC Yukons and Sierras, and Cadillac Escalades, etc)

I redacted the procedure as detailed as I could so its easy to understand it. If something is not clear in the redaction, you can refer to the video at the end. English is not my first language so I apologize in advance if I made some mistakes.

Spoiler Alerts:

-The result is that my brake's performance is better than before. Specially when pumping the brake pedal repeatedly.

-The procedure I used Its not difficult at all if you understand how the systems you're interfering with work.

-It doesn't cost almost any $$ if you do it yourself.

Important things to know Beforehand:

1.- Your Truck/SUV has to have the AFM Disabled

Since I deleted the vacuum pump for the booster, I had to use the vacuum from the intake manifold to replace it. The engine can't produce enough vacuum in V-4 mode (thats why the engines have vacuum pumps in the first place). So you will need to disable the Cylinder Deactivation (AFM) with an ECM Tuner or similar so the engine is always running in V8 mode. Some people delete the AFM mechanically.

My approach: I already had a custom tune from Lewis Eaton (DiabLew) via my Diablo intune i2. AFM disabled.

2.-You have to delete the PCV line that goes from the engine block to the Intake Manifold

You will need a vacuum source for the Brake Booster, and the intake manifold is the obvious choice. By deleting the Engine-to-Manifold PCV line, you will now have an available 3/8" male fitting to feed the 3/8 male fitting on the brake booster: you just have to run a hard rubber hose between the 2: it couldn't be more perfect! Deleting this line has no negative effect, since PCV vapors flow out of the valve covers anyway.

My approach: I already had deleted the PCV line since im running a PCV Crankcase Evacuation System from my valve covers to my exhaust.

3.- You will need to have to order 2 bolts: GM P/N 11546665

You need this 2 bolts to plug the Engine Oil Feed and Return that goes through the Vacuum Pump. Other companies offer this exact same bolts as delete kits. The neat thing about the OEM GM bolts is that they already come with thread locker on them. You can order them at any GM dealership, part number is GM 11546665 and are cheap

My approach: I ordered mine from eBay because I dont live near any Chevy dealers (Seller WARR Performance LLC, shout out to them)

4.- You will need around 3ft of 3/8" ID hard rubber line and some Rubber End Caps

To supply Vacuum from the Intake Manifold to the Brake Booster, you can use a 3/8 Inside diameter hose to connect the 2. You can reuse the Intake Manifold PCV Fitting you previously deleted which is size 3/8" to run the 3/8 hose to the Brake Booster sensor which itself is the fitting which is 3/8. You will need a hose that is hard enough to resist deformation under vacuum, but flexible enough to route it from the Manifold to the booster. I believe you could even have a custom hard line built if you had access to it.

My approach: I used an "Air Brake" Hard Rubber 3/8" ID hose I found at an 18-wheeler shop. I bought a 1 meter (3 feet) hose. It was too long and I cut it to desired length by presenting it on its place

The Procedure:

1.- Delete the Engine-Manifold PCV Line:

-Remove the PCV line and harvest the Fittings at each end. Cut the hose at the ends carefully to not damage the fittings.

-Cancel the end of the Engine-side PCV fitting with a rubber cap. Secure with a zip tie and reinstall on its original place

-Keep the Manifold side fitting, you will use it to run the new vacuum hose to the booster.

2.- Delete the Pump-Booster Vacuum Hard Line

-Remove the vacuum line from the vacuum pump by undoing its fitting and remove line from the booster by unplugging the booster sensor before pulling it off.

-Harvest the Booster side Vacuum Sensor from the hard line: You can heat a knife with a torch or stove until glowing red. Cut carefully to melt the hard line without damaging the sensor fitting.

3.- Make the New Manifold-Booster Vacuum Line

-Install the previously harvested Manifold-side PCV fitting into the new 3/8 hard rubber hose. Secure with a zip tie or hose clamp, it doesn't have to be too tight.

-Install the fitting/hose into the manifold and physically measure it to the booster. Cut it to desired length.

-Install the Booster Vacuum Sensor Fitting on the new Line. Secure with a Zip Tie or hose clamp. Hose should fit very snug on the fittings, be careful to not over tight.

-Install the new Line connecting the Manifold to the Brake Booster and re connect the Sensor to harness.

** Insert Test Drive Here **

Double check and Triple check your work. With the Manifold supplying vacuum to the Brake Booster and the Vacuum pump capped, go for a test drive to ensure that your new line works well. You will feel it in the brake pedal, if the line collapses it won't supply enough vacuum and the brake pedal would feel hard. Do not remove the actual Vacuum Pump from the engine until you are satisfied with the new braking performance.

4.- Remove Vacuum Pump From Engine

-Remove Plastic Skid Plate to gain more access to the working area.

-Remove the mounts for the wire harness that comes around the Vacuum Pump. This will allow to remove more easily once unscrewed.

-Remove the Vacuum Pump Belt from its Pulleys. You can use a screw driver to dismount the belt while turning the engine with a 15/16 socket. Or just cut it, like I did.

-Remove the 4 Bolts that hold the Vacuum Pump to the Engine Block. The bolts are 1/2".

-When Removing the pump, be sure to remove the metal gasket and beware of the engine oil that will come out. Its now much, but enough to make a little mess in your floor.

5.- Install Vacuum Pump Delete Kit

-Clean the now uncovered vacuum pump mounting area with brake cleaner or carb cleaner and a towel to remove any engine oil left.

-Install the 2 Delete kit Bolts on the available threaded holes to plug the oil passages and Tighten. Its an aluminum block that will get stripped if bolts are over tightened!

-Re Install the previously removed Wire Harness mounts back on its place.

-Clean any remaining engine oil from bottom of your truck with carb cleaner.

-Re Install Plastic Skid Plate.

And you're done!

Check for any left tools on engine bay. Start the engine to check for oil leaks. Go for a test drive. Enjoy not having a grenade attached to your engine block.

Even if your Vacuum Pump wasn't bad, you will feel an improvement on the brake feel, specially when pumping the brake pedal multiple times in a parking lot scenario.

And now, for Graphical Reference or TL;DR here is the video. If you like it or find it helpful, please be sure to like it on YouTube and share it: Any support on my YouTube channel is greatly appreciated since it helps me earn an extra bit of money to keep building my truck !

1SLOW1500 · November 10, 2019

This may work. Still thinking about it.

I still want someone to make a kit to bolt in the lt1 electric pump. Then large cam, and boosted trucks are good.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

VdellaV · November 10, 2019

10 minutes ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

This may work. Still thinking about it.

I still want someone to make a kit to bolt in the lt1 electric pump. Then large cam, and boosted trucks are good.

The intake manifold vacuum is plenty enough to run the booster with no problems, I don't see the point on spending more money on an electric vacuum pump tbh.

If you are still thinking about it, I understand, it took me 3 years to finally do it.

But what I did is worth it, the Brake feel has definitely improved, and im sure you could have a custom manifold-to-booster hard line made for you if you dont feel like using flexible hose. At the end, I dont think I spent more than $50 dollars in total (delete kit, vacuum hose and rubber caps)

lovelessjl · November 10, 2019

Using the intake manifold as a vacuum source isn't an option for those of us running forced induction, since the manifold would be at a positive pressure all the time.

The electric pump would be a better solution in that scenario, while your solution is the best option for most folks who won't be running super chargers or turbos.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

VdellaV · November 10, 2019

15 minutes ago, lovelessjl said:

Using the intake manifold as a vacuum source isn't an option for those of us running forced induction, since the manifold would be at a positive pressure all the time.

The electric pump would be a better solution in that scenario, while your solution is the best option for most folks who won't be running super chargers or turbos.

Good point, it would be a safer bet,

Even when boosted, it wouldn't be out of the question. Most of the brake application scenarios are when you are off throttle, thus having vacuum in the manifold. You would only have to put a check valve on the line that can whit stand the boost you are running.

The brake booster sensor on K2XXs has a check valve built into it that I dont think could resist boost coming

I used to have a Jetta 1.8Turbo and my booster ran exclusively on manifold vacuum. I never had an issue, even when brake boosting for totally within the speed limit not racing from a roll

2 hours ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

I still want someone to make a kit to bolt in the lt1 electric pump. Then large cam, and boosted trucks are good.

This also seems like an option, but I have never ran one: https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/63016/10002/-1

Jacoby · November 10, 2019

Great job thinking out of the box and finding a solution to a known problem

my only problem is this mod pretty much makes trading in your truck impossible. Unless you plan on keeping your truck or doing a private sale In the future where you’ll know someone plans to leave it tuned, not sure this mod is a good idea.

Jacoby · November 10, 2019

6 hours ago, lovelessjl said:

Using the intake manifold as a vacuum source isn't an option for those of us running forced induction, since the manifold would be at a positive pressure all the time.

The electric pump would be a better solution in that scenario, while your solution is the best option for most folks who won't be running super chargers or turbos.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Then this isn’t for you. Move along.

1SLOW1500 · November 10, 2019

No a roots style supercharger would still work just need hose on top side of charger to have vaccum. Turbo is different. I was thinking check valve. So built vacuum is stored.
That pump you showed has a horrible duty cycle. Member on forum had it and it burnt up. That is why I want the stock gm unit. Then wire it to a pressure switch.
What is done in the op post for the hose on the valley cover? That needs to at least breathe. And breather tank would be good.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

PPK · November 10, 2019

I am thinking... take the belt off the pump.. but leave it on the block. Re-plumb as the author indicates.. the pump is there to use if you do sell or remove the AFM delete...

VdellaV · November 10, 2019

2 hours ago, Jacoby said:

Great job thinking out of the box and finding a solution to a known problem

my only problem is this mod pretty much makes trading in your truck impossible. Unless you plan on keeping your truck or doing a private sale In the future where you’ll know someone plans to leave it tuned, not sure this mod is a good idea.

You could remove the belt without cutting it and buy a new OEM Pump-Booster Hard Line, then reassemble the truck before trading it or so. PPKs idea is also a good one:

2 hours ago, PPK said:

I am thinking... take the belt off the pump.. but leave it on the block. Re-plumb as the author indicates.. the pump is there to use if you do sell or remove the AFM delete...

2 hours ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

What is done in the op post for the hose on the valley cover? That needs to at least breathe. And breather tank would be good.

I have that PCV hose blow to the exhaust with a Crankcase Evacuation System

It uses a Venturi effect on the exhaust flow to vacuums the Vapors out of the engine:

ksiesel · November 11, 2019

For those who want to go back to stock for trade in, why couldn’t you just do this mod as suggested but remove the belt from the vac pump and leave the vac pump installed (cap the vac port as it’ll probably see crankcase pressure with the pump not being driven)? In this way, the vac pump will still have oil flow through it and it won’t be able to flow out the vac port. The pump won’t be turning so it won’t develop any vacuum or take any power from the crank.

When you want to go back to stock, just put the belt back on and route the plumbing back to stock.

JONBLARC7 · November 11, 2019

So on a 6.2 manifold it would be the port by the throttle body right?? And what did you use the plug the port on the block. I tried watching the video at work with no volume so sorry if you covered that in the video.

VdellaV · November 11, 2019

5 minutes ago, JONBLARC7 said:

So on a 6.2 manifold it would be the port by the throttle body right?? And what did you use the plug the port on the block. I tried watching the video at work with no volume so sorry if you covered that in the video.

On a 6.2 the Block-to-Manifold PCV line is in a different place, but it should be the same fittings.

You remove that PCV line and harvest the fittings on each side.

Then put a rubber cap on the Block-side fitting and put it back where it came from, you can see that on the video at 0:35 and again at 0:45

You plug the port on the block with its same fitting capped.