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96 Chevy k2500 has started kickback/hard start only when cold

BillF

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BillF New Member

BillF

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I just  found and joined the forum, so my apologies if I am bringing up an issue that has been previously discussed and solved.  My  96-97 Chevy k2500 vortex 5.7 has starter kickback and slow crank on!y when outdoor temperature is cold; it acts like timing is off.  I plugged a block heater in last night and it appeared to help, but I know there is a problem that needs to be addressed.  If I do get it started, it runs ok, with just a slight flat spot.  Once warmed up and in warmed weather, there is no problem starting it.  This is my snowplow truck and I need to be able to rely on it!  Anyone have this issue and more importantly, has anyone been able to fix it?  BillF

 

BillF New Member

BillF

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No. I cheked that. The fuel injection holds pressure and no gas smell out of the exhaust, so I doubt if that's the problem.  If that was the problem, I'd have the issue in warm weather as well. When the ambient temperatute is colder, Sept to April here in eastern Washington, engine  kicks back on start like there is a hydrolock of coolant or fuel but I checked those items.  It seem like the electronic timing is very advanced.  I have replaced battery and the starter and the battery ground and positive cables.  I am going to replace air filter, fuel filter, crank sensor, cap and rotor, and MAF sensor as there was a code thrown for the MAF sensor. Btw I already replace the coolant temp sensor.

  • 4 weeks later...
Tim Vernak Enthusiast

Tim Vernak

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I am having the same exact issue, very intermittent.  When is runs, it runs perfect.  Often, after it is running, I will turn it off, and it wont turn back on.  Personally, I have replaced the fuel pump, sending unit, fuel pressure solenoid, and throttle position sensor.  I used to have a stalling condition as well, but it has run smooth since the pressure solenoid was changed, and I resealed the intake manifold.  I am going to see if starter fluid gets it running tonight, if it does, I'm assuming it is still a fuel issue.  I am wondering if perhaps it is the schrader valve itself, as the pressure stays pretty nice when the gauge is on it.  Saw some videos on youtube with a truck that had a very similar issue, and it ended up being the fuel pump.  Never considered spark, because when it runs, it runs great. 

Mikebtte Enthusiast

Mikebtte

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Have you confirmed the temp sensor is within Spec by checking the OHMS resistance? If the truck thinks is hot when cold or cold when hot the timing would be wrong for proper starting conditions.

Tim Vernak Enthusiast

Tim Vernak

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I will check the resistance when I get a chance.  Do you know what spec is or where I can find what it should be?  The truck started every time I tried last night, no need for any starting fluid.  It also started up pretty nice this morning below freezing.  Very strange to me.

JD110 Enthusiast

JD110

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Check spark plugs, if gap is too large, it causes a lean misfire. Especially if temperatures are cold.

Tim Vernak Enthusiast

Tim Vernak

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30 minutes ago, JD110 said:

Check spark plugs, if gap is too large, it causes a lean misfire. Especially if temperatures are cold.

The thing is that I can sometimes get the truck to start, and it runs like a dream, even in freezing temperatures.  There is no missing or sputtering.  Still wouldn't hurt to check I guess.

Tim Vernak Enthusiast

Tim Vernak

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Update!  So I really jinxed myself there, and the truck started sputtering and wanting to stall out again.  Definitely sounds like a lack of fuel.  I am really stumped here.  It runs beautifully, and then bogs down, and will sometimes stall.  I do not press the gas at all in the following videos.

Mikebtte Enthusiast

Mikebtte

Posted
Posted

Have you looked at the EGR valve? When they are failing they stick in a different position every time they open and close. If stuck open even just a tiny amount the idle will suffer due to exhaust being put into the intake.

 

The guy in this video has some possible relevant information for you.

 

 

Tim Vernak Enthusiast

Tim Vernak

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Update!  The EGR is as clean as a whistle, I have no concern there.  I figured out the Check Engine light bulb is out in my cluster.  I have a P0118 code, which is for ECT sensor resistance high.  Michael, you were on to something.  I unplugged the sensor, and the pins were rusted beyond belief.  There is no way any current could flow through these pins.  I ordered a new ACDelco connector and sensor for $15, and it should be here later this week.  Very excited to install it, but I'm not getting my hopes up just yet.

  • 2 weeks later...
Tim Vernak Enthusiast

Tim Vernak

Posted
Posted

Sorry for the lack of an update.  The ECT sensor was the problem!  I replaced it along with the pigtail, and it now starts and runs like a dream.

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