Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Does anyone know if there is a difference in the V8 vs. The V6 transmission cooling system? I have a v6 and installed the tru-cool thermostat and still saw temps reach 200°f. I recently swapped that out with the "updated" 158° one from GM and that seems to be not much different from the tru-cool one. Am i missing something? Thanks 

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Kevin Sayer said:

Does anyone know if there is a difference in the V8 vs. The V6 transmission cooling system? I have a v6 and installed the tru-cool thermostat and still saw temps reach 200°f. I recently swapped that out with the "updated" 158° one from GM and that seems to be not much different from the tru-cool one. Am i missing something? Thanks 

 

 

V6 doesn't have an auxiliary cooler.  Its transmission to the cooler inside the radiator and then back.  

 

V8s have an aux cooler out at the front, its the top 1/4 of the AC condenser.  Also, 14-earl6 16 V8 the lines go transmission to radiator, radiator to aux and then aux to transmission, where late 16-19 don't go through the radiator at all, so the early trucks run warmer like the V6 do and the later trucks run cooler than both.  My 19 old body with the Surecool on a hot day would barely crack 140F, and with the GM updated TBV installed it would hit like 160F max on a hot day.  

Edited by newdude
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Kevin Sayer said:

Does anyone know if there is a difference in the V8 vs. The V6 transmission cooling system? I have a v6 and installed the tru-cool thermostat and still saw temps reach 200°f. I recently swapped that out with the "updated" 158° one from GM and that seems to be not much different from the tru-cool one. Am i missing something? Thanks 

 

1 hour ago, newdude said:

V6 doesn't have an auxiliary cooler.  Its transmission to the cooler inside the radiator and then back. 

 

The water temperature of the cold side radiator tank is the limit. With a factory 207 F water thermostat throttling at perhaps 210 F the cold side temperature will depend on the ambient air temperature and air flow. Air flow is typically at its peak between 50 and 55 mph. (Second chart below).  On a hot day let's say you get a 30 degree drop hot side to cold. If you are starting at 210 F the cold tank is 180 F. 

 

The cold side and the ATF flow in counter current directions. This means the ATF can never get as cold as the cold-water side. This is the 'approach temperature'. Typically, and roughly 20 degrees so now you ATF can get cooler than 200 F. 

 

Won't matter what temperature the ATF thermostat is set at if that temperature is below this number. Wide open is wide open. 

 

Okay so you have two options. Colder water, which you get with a colder water thermostat and/or a larger radiator OR a secondary air to air ancillary cooler in series and after the cold tank OR a really large air to air and remove the cold side from the loop. 

 

That last option has a small problem. It blocks air flow from both the radiator and the AC condenser. Fans run more and AC efficiency suffers. 

 

Katech has a 174 F water thermostat that is a five-minute drop fit into the factory housing. That alone will cool the ATF about 30 degrees on a 85-degree day. You will still run out of cooling on hotter days, driving faster than 55 or towing/hauling at the limit and worse the more of these you stack. It is, after all, a load based system. 

 

This is the temperatures my V6 runs at 55 mph with a 170 F Reisch Racing thermostat and the 158 F TBV. Not a drop in but for your edification. You see where it runs out of throttling range of the thermal bypass valve (TBV). 

 

image.thumb.png.9d7c1ba48840a686b4ff7aad40cbf406.png

 

If you drive faster or slower than the target window the temperatures will rise (below chart) requiring yet again additional cooler. 

 

image.png.aacd1d05eee8741dd2fe83773180bfcc.png

 

I'm going to take advantage of a small radiator leak and replace it with the slightly larger GM-21902 NHT unit. Should increase the temperature drop over the radiator which should be of benefit on hotter days. My aim is to keep the TBV throttling on the hottest days I may drive in. That may mean I add a secondary cooler as well. But one step and check at a time. 

 

 

Edited by Grumpy Bear
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Blazer is all put back together. Another hard-won battle. The 4.3 is not easy to work on in such an archaic and narrow chassis originally designed for an inline 4.   My baffle issue is solved. I returned to the OG junkyard but was ready for a fight. The Blazer I had picked from was stacked on another vehicle so I had no idea how the heck I was going to get myself to working height to pull the front end apart. I had seen an S10 pickup on the ground so I was hoping the part would be the same, AND, I couldn't remember if the S10 still had a front end or not. But I didn't need to worry because it turned out to be my lucky day. The yard had just taken in a '98 Blazer, sitting right up front, on the ground, with room to work around it, and the front end hadn't been hit. The baffle and all the clips were factory perfect. I also scored another good handful of odds/ends and the whole shebang only cost me $20.   Got everything back together and it fired right off, sounds good, runs good. I've got a little coolant drip from a lower water pump bolt (D'OH!!). I did the right thing and snugged it down a little bit, and of course that didn't fix it. Yet again, I will have to soak everything in coolant to drain it down to the water pump, remove the bolt, and attempt to re-seal it. Nothing is easy on this truck. Nothing. But now all the radiator plastics are correct, snug, and fully functional. No more rubbing on the cooling fan. It runs, drives (took it for a 30 mile drive last night), no Check Engine lights, EGR is working, no vacuum leaks. We're getting closer...   The replacement wiper motor arrived yesterday. The tailgate was already disassembled and waiting, so I threw that in. It works! Sort of. Two new issues on the list. While the motor is strong enough and the gears aren't stripped, the wiper is hanging up on the bottom of the rear glass. This is the old style where the lower half folds down like a truck tailgate, and the glass swings up, and they meet in the middle when closed. The glass isn't sitting flush with the tailgate, now that I look at it. No rubber bumpers that I can see for adjusting, so I'll have to look at the hinge adjustment to see if I can correct it. Also, the washer/squirter just dumps fluid underneath the truck. The lines actually run inside on the floor so I'm guessing the tailgate is soaked at the rear trim and the line is disconnected. There's also a drain there....probably for this reason.   The leaky water pump bolt was really disappointing. JUST STOP LEAKING...OMG!!   Replacing the window motor and a rear door speaker are still to do, and then everything will work. I want this to feel like a "good" vehicle worthy of dropping $600 for new tires before I do. That means no leaking first. I hurt, and I'm kind of cranky, so I'll probably take a day of rest and do the water pump again tomorrow.
    • Just saw on Jay Leno the new Scout. That’s the way it should be done.
    • EV's have their nuances too. Best to operate the current type of lithium batteries between 20-80% charge. No real need to charge until you hit around 20%. Occasionally charge to 100% when needed. Longer term storage, battery should be 50-60%. At least those are the guidelines for our iX. We've been exceptionally good to the battery in that car...easy to do when you can charge at home like we can.   EV's lack so many of the rituals and so much of the visceral feeling ICE vehicles provide, which is why I think they're hard to accept for a lot of gearheads. They're fun in different ways, though.
    • We have got a lot of rain lately, we needed it. Storms/lightning took out a floor fan. Dirt roads badly rutted from run off.   Power here is sketchy, whole house surge protector in the service panel and all electronics plugged into surge protectors. My biggest concern is my stereo, I've been an audio nut for years. $25 k in equipment. Stereo is on it's own special surge protector.
    • Happy Birthday!  I also turned 72 this year.  In some groups I consider myself to be a young senior and in others I realize I have serious years behind me!  In June I spent a week in the hospital due to a blood clot following knee replacement surgery.  The hospital Doctor assigned to my care specialized in Geriatric medicine!  He is a great Doctor but the fact I required this type of specialized care  made me feel old!  Aging comes with new challenges but I sure appreciate getting older!  It most definitely beats the alternative!!
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...