Conventional or full synthetic

[07HD]

On ‎3‎/‎24‎/‎2020 at 8:19 AM, diyer2 said:

Wouldn't even consider conventional oil.

 

So the engine blows up, you take it to a GM.  dealer all they need to do is say you didn't use the correct oil that the owners manual called for or oil filters that are not Ac Delco.  Did you ever fight GM. over a warranty issue been there done that I can tell you who will win. Enough said.

[Grumpy Bear]

12 minutes ago, 07HD said:

So the engine blows up, you take it to a GM.  dealer all they need to do is say you didn't use the correct oil that the owners manual called for or oil filters that are not Ac Delco.  Did you ever fight GM. over a warranty issue been there done that I can tell you who will win. Enough said.

I lost the very first one. I was 22 at the time. Never lost one again. Most recent. 2006 Honda. Motor left the building at 62,000. Warranty was 60K. I'd had it in before 60K and started a file. They tried to deny the claim. I asked him if he had records on all my Honda buys. Sure. Dozens. I asked him if he would like to sell a bakers dozen...fix it. They did. 

[07HD]

On ‎3‎/‎27‎/‎2020 at 2:05 PM, AT4 HD Ron said:

Can this entire page 2 of this thread be deleted since it has nothing to do with the Duramax, and the thread is in the DURAMAX forum?

That's a BIG thumbs up. I sure did start a big fire storm. ( Love it) gives people something to do besides worrying about the virus.

[07HD]

I thought sure I started this thread in the 6.6L Duramax & Allison Powertrain (L5P/MGM) ?

[newdude]

On 3/23/2020 at 11:13 PM, 07HD said:

 

First oil change coming up way before the computer says to. Just thought I would get thirty different opinions on what's the best oil on the market.

( I have owned diesel trucks for the past 28 years) 

 

2020 SLT 3500 CC. DRW.

 

Ok.  Lots of wrong information, and a little bit of correct information.  Lets see if I can be of some help.

 

First off.  NO DEXOS.  Ignore ANYONE in this thread that mentions the DEXOS SPEC.  It DOES NOT apply to the 6.6 Duramax.

 

6.6 Duramax in HD trucks.  Factory fill is Mobil Delvac 1300 Super, 15w40.  This oil is CK-4 spec (The L5P needs CJ-4 or newer spec) and this oil is also a Synthetic Blend.  Most every GM dealer that is on the GM national bulk oil program most likely has a form of Mobil Delvac 1300 for diesels.  We stock it at our store in quarts/gallons (enough but not enough volume/space for a bulk tank).

 

So.  No matter what brand you choose, go with a synthetic blend or full synthetic, and skip the conventional (if there are any left in the market to begin with).  So, Shell Rotella, Delo, Mobil Delvac, Amsoil, etc.  You can also substitute for 5w40 in cold climates.   

[07HD]

20 hours ago, newdude said:

 

Ok.  Lots of wrong information, and a little bit of correct information.  Lets see if I can be of some help.

 

First off.  NO DEXOS.  Ignore ANYONE in this thread that mentions the DEXOS SPEC.  It DOES NOT apply to the 6.6 Duramax.

 

6.6 Duramax in HD trucks.  Factory fill is Mobil Delvac 1300 Super, 15w40.  This oil is CK-4 spec (The L5P needs CJ-4 or newer spec) and this oil is also a Synthetic Blend.  Most every GM dealer that is on the GM national bulk oil program most likely has a form of Mobil Delvac 1300 for diesels.  We stock it at our store in quarts/gallons (enough but not enough volume/space for a bulk tank).

 

So.  No matter what brand you choose, go with a synthetic blend or full synthetic, and skip the conventional (if there are any left in the market to begin with).  So, Shell Rotella, Delo, Mobil Delvac, Amsoil, etc.  You can also substitute for 5w40 in cold climates.   

Thanks for all the great info.

[2500W/T]

I say Synthetic, brand immaterial as long it meet or exceed GM Specs.  Why I specified Synthetic?  For simple reasons, they do not gum up or breakdown like conventional (Dino) oils.

[Bones454]

Is it good to go synthetic with the first oil change?

Don't you need to make sure things seat before putting synthetic oil in until it has so many miles-on it.

In 1995 I bought the wife the bad impala SS LT1 for a family car and ask my mechanic(RIP) about synthetic oil. He told me wait to it gets more miles on it so everything seats its that slick.

He also said synthetic is so slick if there’s a pin hole it will find it and leak he didn’t use it.

At 25,000 miles I put mobile synthetic Oil in and after a month the oil pan started leaking some. To this day I wonder if he was just lucky or that good of a mechanic.

I have a 100 miles on my truck so I’ll keep researching, I drive 8 miles to work.

 

[2500W/T]

I have a 94 Geo Tracker, with well over 100,000 miles on the clock, original motor, started using Mobil 1 when I got it with high mileage, does not seep a single drop of oil and is all OEM.

[Grumpy Bear]

1 hour ago, 2500W/T said:

I have a 94 Geo Tracker, with well over 100,000 miles on the clock, original motor, started using Mobil 1 when I got it with high mileage, does not seep a single drop of oil and is all OEM.

Come back and report at 1 million miles. Then I will be impressed. Just say' n. 

[2500W/T]

The point is not about mileage, is the switching from Conventional to Synthetic.  I can say is harmless to switch.  Also, did the same with an 03 Impala, 170K+ later, no oil seepage either and pretty clean engine.  My G8 has 154K miles, no lifter AFM/DOD failure on the L76 6.0L motor.  I am sold on Mobil 1.

Edited May 8, 2020 by 2500W/T

[Grumpy Bear]

6 minutes ago, 2500W/T said:

The point is not about mileage, is the switching from Conventional to Synthetic.  I can say is harmless to switch.  Also, did the same with an 03 Impala, 170K+ later, no oil seepage either and pretty clean engine.  My G8 has 154K miles, no lifter AFM/DOD failure on the L76 6.0L motor.  I am sold on Mobil 1.

Miss read your previous post. Thought you were saying you made it to 100K on Mobil 1. 

Well no reason it should have caused a leak. It isn't an ester and it isn't a PAO. Not for some time now. It's hydrocracked dino oil. 

 

[2500W/T]

Is ok, we all do at some point.  Yes, Synthetic Oils now days is cheaper to use because of less oil changes and less sludge.

[Colossus]

There are a lot of old wives tales out there when it comes to things like running synthetic or things like tranny flushes vs drain and fill, and crap like that.  You are 100% safe to run synthetic as long as it meets or exceeds the specs.  Go for it!

[2500W/T]

I am sold on Synthetics, I also use the Oil Life Monitor, those 3,500 miles oil changes are long gone, like the Beetles (pun intended).   Talking about Beetles, the wife's 07 Bug has a 10,000 m or 1 Year on oil changes and is requested by VW Specs to be full synthetic and 6 qts to fill for the Inline 5 2.2L Audi motor.

 

On transmissions, the 1 problem with them is Maintenance.  Most people perform maintenance on the transmission when they start to fail, looking for a potion or lotion and a flush to do its magic, by then is too late.  Just a simple drain and fill will be fine.  With now days transmissions is a royal pain to do, is becoming as hard as a Blood Transfusion.  For that, as much as I hate it, I take to the dealer.  In another hand, is like once in a blue moon.  Depending on driving, I do 100,000 on cars and if I tow/haul a lot, every 50,000.  You will be surprised, with proper care/maintenance a transmission will last a very long time.

 

I use Mobil 1 5W30 on most of my cars, Castrol Syntech 0W40 on the VW Bug and now.... might go with Shell Rotella T6.  The reasons of using different brands is to prevent a mistake (different weights), so I know for which car is the oil for.  Or I might take advantage of the dealer's discounts.  So far on my Colorado, the dealer is doing the changes, turns out that is cheaper (specials and discounts) for me for them to do it, I hope that will be the same with the Duramax.

 

And you are 100% as long it meets the API and Manufacturer recommendations and specifications any brand of oil should be fine.

Edited May 8, 2020 by 2500W/T