Let's install the "upfitter switches"

KTDanforth · May 15, 2025

Looks good, what bracketing did you use for the lights?

KTDanforth · May 15, 2025

16 hours ago, PBNB said:

I was able to get my Diode Dynamics SS6 fog lights hooked up to the Upfitter Kit.

Now that I have all these buttons to use up, I have to start finding things to hook up!

Looks Good, what bracketing did you use for the lights?

PBNB · May 15, 2025

I had these lights from my '22 Tundra. They came with the little black angles on both sides and the wiring adaptors for a plug and play solution. The Tundra was kicked down the road but I kept the lights, one of the few good things about that truck!

I cutoff the adaptor plugs and made a harness to connect to the upfitter output. The Silverado has a steel bumper rather than all that plastic in the Toyota. I just drilled into the bumper under the grill and mounted these. That part was easy. I can adjust them up and down to avoid blinding people.

Here is a link to the kit: https://www.diodedynamics.com/ss6-led-fog-light-kit-for-2022-2025-toyota-tundra.html

Edited May 15, 2025 by PBNB

PBNB · May 17, 2025

Now that the upfitter kit is installed, I am attempting to use up the buttons.

AUX 1 - fog lights

AUX 2 - dash cam

AndrewF · February 21

What firewall penetration does everyone typically use for the 24+ refresh trucks? Bulletin 193d for the refresh trucks specifies the firewall penetration on the passenger side behind the battery. While the original 153e bulletin routes across the top of the firewall and through the drivers side.

193d requires removing the silver insulation/clips from the upfitter battery power wire and then routing behind the HVAC duct in the cab. That seems like more work when also considering the 4 power outputs from the switches also need to go back behind the duct.

It appears it is the same upfitter kit for both pre/post refresh trucks so I’m assuming it does not matter?

Edited February 21 by AndrewF

Chuck FB · February 21

10 minutes ago, AndrewF said:

What firewall penetration does everyone typically use for the 24+ refresh trucks? Bulletin 193d for the refresh trucks specifies the firewall penetration on the passenger side behind the battery. While the original 153e bulletin routes across the top of the firewall and through the drivers side.

193d requires removing the silver insulation/clips from the upfitter battery power wire and then routing behind the HVAC duct in the cab. That seems like more work when also considering the 4 power outputs from the switches also need to go back behind the duct.

It appears it is the same upfitter kit for both pre/post refresh trucks so I’m assuming it does not matter?

I won't be a lot of help in giving guides and hints as I never installed the upfitter wiring in my truck as the dealer did it and oddly enough I didn't even request it, the salesman had one of their electrical specialists in the shop do it and I was not charged for it. That to me says someone that is used to doing this install can do it fairly fast as they know the moves. From what I see he bundled the power wire from the passenger battery with the existing factory harness wire that runs along the upper area of the fire wall over to the drivers side and then entered in at the steering column. I have nothing hooked up at the switches though as this was only an upfitter harness and I assume the mini breaker box behind the dash install and yes I had ordered the truck with it so the switch assembly came installed into the lower center of the dash ( being a Chev ) with the special cutout panel made for the switches that the refresh interior situates the switch panel. The harness was sitting under the rear seat in a bag in the tray when I first set my eyes on my ordered truck. Cheap to order with the truck, expensive to buy all the parts after to install it so I hear.

PBNB · February 21

Having installed the kit in my 23 Silverado, I would expect that the differences would be a longer wire lead from the buttons to the added fuse box. It is really the placement of the buttons that makes this different.

If one could install the buttons in the same location (left of the steering wheel) it would make the installation a bit easier as you would have to pull all the dash pieces to get to the buttons.

But I am sure that is explained in the bulletin and install documentation.

When I bought our truck, it was 18 months old. Parts of the kit were in the truck but a few pieces were missing so my salesman went and collected all the clips, fuses, wires, etc.. to complete the kit. The buttons were already installed in the kick panel. I didn't have to remove much to get at the install area so that was a bonus. I like the kit now and I use it all the time. Still planning more use for the remaining switches (3 are unused) but that will have to wait till work slows down.

The one thing that comes across as strange about this kit is why GM doesn't just install it but leave the battery connections off so if owners wanted to use it, they would just need to install the battery fuses and away they go! Now with the newer dash design and placement of the buttons, that would make a lot more sense.

Adaze1 · February 22

I have installed the fitter kit in my 2025 Chevy. How do you use button 5?

There is no wire? The harness only has four wires. Can one be added? The wire diagram shows it.

thanks

PBNB · February 22

I believe the 5th wire goes to the rear of the roof and allows for something to be connected out the back towards the truck bed.

You should be able to tap into that wire from the little fuse box. "Sw5 Grn/Bl" is the wire according to this picture that I have clipped from the bulletin.