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Posted

I'm just wondring, can I get a setup so I can install some fuses or a fuse on the battery of my LBZ (06' 2500HD) similar to the fuse for the plow with this kit? Im installing a winch on the 06 and some other things and this style set up would be clean ...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted
On 10/30/2020 at 9:56 AM, Gecko50 said:

Requester,

The Service Parts 9L7 retrofit kits are NOW available.  Below is the kit P/Ns based on the vehicle’s interior color and whether it has push button (BTM) or keyed ignition start. The table below then provides the list of P/Ns that are included in the kit for your vehicle application. NOTE: dealer price for these kits is $126.92, if more pricing information is required dealers are recommended to contact the pricing center customer assistance and request pricing.

  • 84942071 for use with Jet Black interior and keyed ignition (-BTM)
  • 84942072 for use with Very Dark Atmosphere Interior and keyed ignition (-BTM)
  • 84942073 for use with Jet Black interior and with push button ignition (+BTM)
  • 84942074 for use with Very Dark Atmosphere interior and with push button ignition (+BTM)

 

Kit #

 

84942071

 

84942072

 

84942073

 

84942074

 

Knee Bolster

 

84487351

 

84487352

 

84487354

 

84487355

 

Switch Bank

 

84688687

 

84688686

 

84688687

 

84688686

 

Fuse Kit

 

84669070

 

84669070

 

84669070

 

84669070

 

Fasteners

 

11589015 (2)

 

11589015 (2)

 

11589015 (2)

 

11589015 (2)

 

Aux Fuse Block

 

84645397

 

84645397

 

84645397

 

84645397

 

Under Hood Wiring harness

 

84794790

 

84794790

 

84794790

 

84794790

 

Retainers

 

11589290

 

11589290

 

11589290

 

11589290

 

 

The dark coco color interior is called "Very Dark Atmosphere" Now look carefully at the part numbers as it depends on how your truck is outfitted with OR without a key type switch. I did my own taking my time and I can say you will have to disassemble the entire (or most of it) the center console. Do a search and a good article is on Diesel forums. I had to redo the entire writeup in MS Office as the photos were messed up. I again took my time. I utilized my own means and methods. 

 

Good Luck

Chuck

so what style switches are these  momentary or latch or both

Posted

So what type of switches doe this kit have. is there momentary and latching. or ar they all latching switches  i need momentary for air horn. two im thinkinmg about retrofitting the button panel to the upper roof console using the sunglasses compartment.

 

  • Like 1
Posted
On 12/24/2021 at 2:47 PM, Robo9831 said:

So what type of switches doe this kit have. is there momentary and latching. or ar they all latching switches  i need momentary for air horn. two im thinkinmg about retrofitting the button panel to the upper roof console using the sunglasses compartment.

 

 

Not for sure what you mean, but these button click in and stay in with a light illuminated when pressed. You have to press them again to disengage. 

Posted

Hello everyone. im new here. but i have been searching and browsing for answers. does anybody here know why this kit will not work on a 2017 gmc 2500hd. the only thing i can think of is cause of the gray plug that plugs into the factory harness. They probably didnt start putting that factory plug in till 2019 and up. if so  i can hard wire it in. i just need to know what wire is what  thank you

 

Posted
On 10/11/2021 at 5:23 PM, Cali Crusin said:

Man you all are so lucky that the newer trucks have this factory (custom) option.. I have a 2017 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT that I want to add switches for, but I don't think this will work for me. Am I correct in that?IMG_4690.HEIC

Hey Cali Crusin, were you able to figure it out on this kit to install it on your 2017. im in the same boat man. im sure someone has a write up wiring it up with the plug. (hardwire )

Posted

You could probably get most of it working if you really wanted to. Like you said, the gray plug would be the most difficult because it is only on the newer trucks. That plug is the BCM controls, so I don't know that it is as easy as just tapping wires, but it could just be for backlighting, ignition position sensing, etc. 

 

Good luck if you decide to tackle it. It's difficult enough on trucks that were designed for the kit. Personally, I'd just find a different aftermarket kit and find a clean way to wire that up. 

  • 5 months later...
Posted

This is really a great discussion on installing the upfitter switches.  I just got my 2022 3500 that was ordered with the kit as an option.  Much to my surprise I found the switch cluster was already installed in the knee bolster and now just the wiring remains.  After actually reading the UI Bulletin I see that the 2500/3500 have the knee bolster with the switch cluster installed during the build.

 

So the relay/fuse box and power cable remain to be installed.  The cables from the fuse box can be easily connected to the power cable and the 14-pin connector Aux Fuse Block.  But, I can't see the connector on the back of the switch cluster for the 16-pin switch bank connector.  How do I install that connector?  I find it hard to believe, but not impossible, that the switch cluster would be installed in the knee bolster at the factory, but then would have to be removed to install that one connector.  Can the switch cluster be pulled/pushed out to expose the connector or would that damage it?

 

Thanks for any help.

Posted

I'm  not 100% sure on what your exactly talking about.  BUT if you mean the connector that plugs in to the back of the switch in the knee bolster.  It's included in some bubble wrap and you install the provided wire to that connector after running through the firewall then plug er' in n go.  I installed this with ease in no time at all and I think of myself as electrically illiterate.  You don't have to remove rhe switch panel deal to install anything. Although I'm sure it more than likely is possible.

Posted

Do you remember if there was a socket on the back of the switch cluster that took one of the cables from the fuse box?

Posted

Go all the way back to the first page of this thread and look at the pictures and instructions for opening up the dash. Once everything is unscrewed you can just pull the panel that holds the switches forwards to access the plug from the fuse box. 

Posted
On 3/26/2020 at 7:17 PM, blamkin86 said:

OK we are rounding the last corner and heading for the final stretch of this phase.

 

First, grab the fusebox, and hold it near where we'll be installing it:

IMG_0597.jpg.0f450d511d7ab92edbd2666b1af8ac74.jpg

 

First, the black plug you just put on the red wire from the first steps, plug that into the fusebox. I don't have a picture of this, but there's only one place it can go.

 

Next, take the grey plug from the fusebox harness, and plug it into the grey plug where you removed the blank/empty end:

IMG_0602.jpg.0eca754fc7cbf966b7fb30aee06b540f.jpg

 

Next, run the last unused black connector from the fusebox to the actual upfitter switches on the kickpanel:

IMG_0601.jpg.1da460d4bd79ddc473dfe69ad309a22a.jpg

 

At this point, you're switches are wired into the harness in your truck. 

 

One last step here - and this is where you may deviate from what I do. Because I knew I didn't want to take all this off again, and because I didn't have specific screws that would work AND because the screws that I took off the truck did work, I reused them. You may want to do something different.

 

In any case, match up the two screw holes in the fuse block with two empty holes on the support beam right behind the kickpanel, directly under the steering wheel. They're kind of hard to see, but I did manage to get a picture of me tightening down the screws.

 

IMG_0603.jpg.4eb132a49683293f2b25289c45daec09.jpg

 

So, once it's tightened down, double check that you've

1) plugged the grey plug from the harness to the grey plug where you removed the blank connector

2) plugged the black plug from the harness, through the supports, out the dash, and into the back of the upfitter switches

3) plugged the new black plug that you added the red wire into the fuse box.

 

It maybe is also a good idea to see where you left the four loose (electrical tape) wires. Whatever you wire to these switches is going to have to come all the way back to one of these four wires. (Sorry, this is one case where Ford got it better- their wires are all outside under the hood. Sorry, I don't like saying that either, but theirs is better.)

@mobilelists you can see in this post the plug that was used for the switches. 

Posted

So it appears that the kick panel still has to be removed, or at least partially removed.  I will have to see if I can borrow a  scope to look up there and try to connect without doing that when I have some time.  The metal support brackets are blocking my field of view.

Posted
4 minutes ago, mobilelists said:

So it appears that the kick panel still has to be removed, or at least partially removed.  I will have to see if I can borrow a  scope to look up there and try to connect without doing that when I have some time.  The metal support brackets are blocking my field of view.

You don't have to fully remove it to access the back of the switch. I didn't fully remove mine, I just bent the plastic enough to install the fuse box and connect the switch. Pulling the panel back really isn't hard at all, removing it entirely would be difficult. 

  • Like 1

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