Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Just did my switch install on my 21 At4 1500. And boy it there a lot more to it if you have to replace the kick panel. There is a YouTube video I also followed for that part (CJ Garage) where he installs the whole kit on a Silverado. Only part I had to figure out was the wireless charger and cup holder removal to get to the bottom two screws on the entertainment unit. Photo is of truck taken apart.  

 

Thank you OP for the write up. Helped on parts of the install :) 

Dash Photo 8.jpg

Dash photo 3.jpg

Posted (edited)

My 21 AT4 came with the switches installed and I’ve had the wiring sitting in the console for months. Thanks to this thread I got it all installed on Saturday, just took a couple hours. The most difficult part was getting the fuse box screws installed without removing the whole kick panel. 
 

I still need to run some wires back through the firewall for accessories. What gauge wires is everyone using for that? Loom or no loom? 

Edited by TheElementalCashew
Posted
On 10/11/2021 at 8:23 PM, Cali Crusin said:

Man you all are so lucky that the newer trucks have this factory (custom) option.. I have a 2017 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT that I want to add switches for, but I don't think this will work for me. Am I correct in that?IMG_4690.HEIC

You might be able to hack the switch wiring up to get it work for you, but it wouldn't be nearly as straightforward as it is on the new trucks. These ones have harnesses and plugs already in place so it's basically plug and play. 

Posted

Good afternoon. I bought the upfitter switch parts kit, that includes the switch housing, the GM harness, the battery cabling as well as the replacement knee panel to house the upfitter switches. 
 

I took it to the dealership to have them install, and they had a question about the he fuses. There is a 60 amp and 200 amp fuse that comes with the kit, and they couldn’t figure out where they go. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Images below for reference. 

55429771-F074-4170-BD61-17BE5797489D.jpeg

AA0866A3-ACF9-40C4-834F-56822332229A.jpeg

049644B1-96CB-41EB-BB04-C7DC6B0CF3E3.jpeg

Posted (edited)

Lol the dealer couldn't figure out where the fuses went AND told you that too?  Like a legit Chevy dealer told you that?  F#%@ Me. Lol.  They go in the fuse box.  Installed mine myself recently and ill admit I did skim through a utūb vid before doing it but it was pretty obvious once you get going where they went.  I can turn wrenches as good as the next guy but Im far from a journeyman mechanic fwiw as well.  Sorry I cant search for the info for you at the moment my connection is hit or miss.

Edited by THE YETI
Posted
19 minutes ago, Npete78 said:

Good afternoon. I bought the upfitter switch parts kit, that includes the switch housing, the GM harness, the battery cabling as well as the replacement knee panel to house the upfitter switches. 
 

I took it to the dealership to have them install, and they had a question about the he fuses. There is a 60 amp and 200 amp fuse that comes with the kit, and they couldn’t figure out where they go. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Images below for reference. 

55429771-F074-4170-BD61-17BE5797489D.jpeg

AA0866A3-ACF9-40C4-834F-56822332229A.jpeg

049644B1-96CB-41EB-BB04-C7DC6B0CF3E3.jpeg

It’s super easy. See attached. 

UI-Bulletin_147b-Snow-Plow-power-provisions.pdf

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I tried this install over the weekend in a 2022 Chevy 2500.  Everything went according to the instructions. 

The aux buttons light up when the headlights are on and then when each button is turned on, the small yellow bar is lights up.

 

However, I don't have any power coming to the 4 wire bundle.  I first used a volt meter and got nothing. I thought maybe I had  a grounding issue so I tried a simple circuit tester with a long ground wire running all the way to the battery and nothing there either (I tested the ground wire and the tester at the battery and the ground wire was good).

 

If panel with the 4 aux lights lights up, it seems to me I have power.  However, I'm at a loss.  

 

Any ideas? 

Posted

I tried this install over the weekend in a 2022 Chevy 2500.  Everything went according to the instructions. 

The aux buttons light up when the headlights are on and then when each button is turned on, the small yellow bar is lights up.

 

However, I don't have any power coming to the 4 wire bundle.  I first used a volt meter and got nothing. I thought maybe I had  a grounding issue so I tried a simple circuit tester with a long ground wire running all the way to the battery and nothing there either (I tested the ground wire and the tester at the battery and the ground wire was good).

 

If panel with the 4 aux lights lights up, it seems to me I have power.  However, I'm at a loss for what to do next.

 

Any ideas? 

Posted

I'm far from an expert and don't claim to be in any way whatsoever.  But, don't you just wire power from whatever accessory you are installing to the wire from whichever switch/button you choose.  Then ground that accessory in a nearby accessible spot?  

Posted
On 12/6/2021 at 2:50 PM, THE YETI said:

I'm far from an expert and don't claim to be in any way whatsoever.  But, don't you just wire power from whatever accessory you are installing to the wire from whichever switch/button you choose.  Then ground that accessory in a nearby accessible spot?  

 The issue is I'm not getting power from the upfitter switch fuse box that came with the kit. I wired up a brake light to have a little load on the wire and still nothing.  the baffling thing is the switches on the knees bolster light up with the head lights and then again when you push the buttons.  I'm going to remove the bolster that covers the fuse box and drop the fuse box and see if I can get access to test the connections without taking the dash apart again.

Posted
On 4/24/2021 at 4:53 PM, Dan Pemberton said:

I installed the up fitter kit in my trail boss ( 2020 ) everything went well has the center console cupholder so a bit more work hooked up power checked it at the battery and the is power at the cable but no power to the accessory wires The lights go on and off the switches but no power to the wires . I switched the 5 amp fuse in their positons but still no power to the leads   Anybody have this problem ? Thanks 

Yup...I am right now.  Did you solve this?  If so, how?

Posted (edited)
21 hours ago, Winnie2020 said:

 The issue is I'm not getting power from the upfitter switch fuse box that came with the kit. I wired up a brake light to have a little load on the wire and still nothing.  the baffling thing is the switches on the knees bolster light up with the head lights and then again when you push the buttons.  I'm going to remove the bolster that covers the fuse box and drop the fuse box and see if I can get access to test the connections without taking the dash apart again.

Hmm i installed mine all and see the lights will light up when i press a button.  Have yet to wire anything to them.  I assumed I would be good to go when I do.  Keep us posted as you check it out going forward here.

 

Fwiw. I dont believe my switches light up with the headlights.  But I've never specifically took note of that.  Maybe I'll  check it out if they do when i manual turn the headlights on. 

Edited by THE YETI
Posted
9 hours ago, Winnie2020 said:

 The issue is I'm not getting power from the upfitter switch fuse box that came with the kit. I wired up a brake light to have a little load on the wire and still nothing.  the baffling thing is the switches on the knees bolster light up with the head lights and then again when you push the buttons.  I'm going to remove the bolster that covers the fuse box and drop the fuse box and see if I can get access to test the connections without taking the dash apart again.

It isn’t really baffling that the lights on your switches work. They likely get power/signal from where you connected them to the body harness under the dash, not from the battery. That’s how they know to turn on with your headlights, etc. 

 

As to why you aren’t getting power, I don’t really have any ideas other than to check and re-check all your connections. Also make sure you installed the fuse on the battery correctly. Maybe check that fuse and make sure it isn’t broken already. 

Posted
11 hours ago, TheElementalCashew said:

It isn’t really baffling that the lights on your switches work. They likely get power/signal from where you connected them to the body harness under the dash, not from the battery. That’s how they know to turn on with your headlights, etc. 

 

As to why you aren’t getting power, I don’t really have any ideas other than to check and re-check all your connections. Also make sure you installed the fuse on the battery correctly. Maybe check that fuse and make sure it isn’t broken already. 

 

 

from what I saw /read on interweb

 

did you install teh fuses int eh under hood fuse box?

 

apparently the switch LED power is NOT the load power..it is switched through a contactor.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 
    • This landing is worse than most. Patchy blacktop with washouts, soft gravel/sand at bottom that washes out with every heavy rain. I tell everyone to put it in 4WD. A lot of them think they can pull out their trailer in 2WD. They end up digging a hole and then putting it in 4WD.  The lake is a pristine lake and has a lot of money on it. There are several wake boats and lot of large tritoons. The people with the money don't want it improved because they don't want more traffic.    Boat Landing 1.jfif Boat Landing 2.jfif Boat Landing 3.jfif
    • How wide are your rims?   Toyo specs 8.5-10.0-11.0 inches. My thought would be rim might be pulling the tire inwards creating a center that is more pronounced.    I also noticed that the spec sheet says max 65psi. So you could be right lowering the pressure to ~40 psi. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...