Let's install the "upfitter switches"

[mihuntn]

1 hour ago, Thaflood said:

Thank you! So on that parts list you had to order 1 of everything? Or is there 1 part number that includes the entire kit?

I ordered the complete kit part number for my truck...84942073 and it came with everything. Just match up the part number with your interior color and whether you have push button or keyed ignition.

[Thaflood]

8 hours ago, mihuntn said:

I ordered the complete kit part number for my truck...84942073 and it came with everything. Just match up the part number with your interior color and whether you have push button or keyed ignition.

Awesome! Thank you, I really appreciate it. I’m going to order it today and try installing sometime next week!

[ekbruster]

Just wanted to say thanks to all the documentation here, I spent the better part of 8 hours today replacing the knee panel, installing the fuse block, switches, and running a 4ga wire through the passenger side and back through the center console to the rear seat to mount an ARB compressor.  Still need to run air lines, but if it wasn't for this post (came back in and referred to it at least 8 times) I wouldn't have got the entire dash apart and back together.  Great documentation!   

 

Edited January 10, 2021 by ekbruster

[ekbruster]

On 1/9/2021 at 12:28 AM, mihuntn said:

I ordered the complete kit part number for my truck...84942073 and it came with everything. Just match up the part number with your interior color and whether you have push button or keyed ignition.

No the Kit # at the top of the chart is a bundle, it includes all the parts listed beneath it.   So just order the kit # line item for your respective truck,  the kit differs based on if you have push button start or not and by color as stated previously in the thread.

[gearheadesw]

I'm still flabbergasted that the build site calls these an installed option, and we see people tearing their new truck apart to install this stuff, no way. NO WAY would I do this for an ordered factory option. Sorry. You're being taken to the cleaners, just buy an after market switch panel, and install it wherever you want, totally ridiculous.

 

GM should be embarrassed. It's like ordering the tire and wheel package you want, and having to mount them yourself.

[mihuntn]

7 hours ago, ekbruster said:

No the Kit # at the top of the chart is a bundle, it includes all the parts listed beneath it.   So just order the kit # line item for your respective truck,  the kit differs based on if you have push button start or not and by color as stated previously in the thread.

That’s exactly what Thaflood was asking about, I was just confirming his question about the kit bundle part number.

[20gmctruckguy]

Just want to say thank you to Bill (blamkin86) for starting this thread and putting so much into it. I found it to be very helpful and most of the others that added to it were also quite helpful. 

I just finished doing the install on my 2020 3500 SLT and found it to be easier than what I expected. Most of my trouble was contorting myself in under the dash to route the main power cable (the one coming through the firewall). I did not get the replacement knee bolster and am glad that I didn't. It was very easy to layout and cut the hole in the already installed panel. Just took my time and it worked out great. There was no need to remove all the other trim panels just to change it. I was able to get the two screws into the fuse block without loosing my cool, but it might be easier to tac a nut onto the head of the screw so that a small ratchet wrench could be used. You'd need a nut or something to overcome the small depression that the screw fits into and also to make it bigger since I don't know if there is such a thing as a 7mm ratchet wrench. At least my set does not come with one, smallest was 8mm.

The other thing would be to attach the power cable to the firewall at the very end. I had to wiggle and slide the factory installed wire tie loops down the cable to get enough length to reinstall the battery cover. They could have made that wire an inch or two longer! 

[Thaflood]

1 hour ago, 20gmctruckguy said:

Just want to say thank you to Bill (blamkin86) for starting this thread and putting so much into it. I found it to be very helpful and most of the others that added to it were also quite helpful. 

I just finished doing the install on my 2020 3500 SLT and found it to be easier than what I expected. Most of my trouble was contorting myself in under the dash to route the main power cable (the one coming through the firewall). I did not get the replacement knee bolster and am glad that I didn't. It was very easy to layout and cut the hole in the already installed panel. Just took my time and it worked out great. There was no need to remove all the other trim panels just to change it. I was able to get the two screws into the fuse block without loosing my cool, but it might be easier to tac a nut onto the head of the screw so that a small ratchet wrench could be used. You'd need a nut or something to overcome the small depression that the screw fits into and also to make it bigger since I don't know if there is such a thing as a 7mm ratchet wrench. At least my set does not come with one, smallest was 8mm.

The other thing would be to attach the power cable to the firewall at the very end. I had to wiggle and slide the factory installed wire tie loops down the cable to get enough length to reinstall the battery cover. They could have made that wire an inch or two longer! 

Glad you got it installed! Where did you order the switches from? I’ve tried 3 or 4 places and they won’t place the order because GM shows out of stock 

[20gmctruckguy]

36 minutes ago, Thaflood said:

Glad you got it installed! Where did you order the switches from? I’ve tried 3 or 4 places and they won’t place the order because GM shows out of stock 

I ordered the parts through my local dealer here in British Columbia. Ordered everything but the knee bolster. Parts were here in just under 4 days. A bit pricey, but at least I was able to get everything I needed. Not sure if the complete "kit" would have been cheaper. Was going to order through gmparts online, but with the US-CAD exchange and then cross border shipping I went with the dealer. 

[Transient]

I tried ordering the kit for my truck (jet black with push button start) through 3 online sources and my dealer. All 3 online sources canceled my order due to backorder status. When I attempted to order through my dealer they informed me the kit is on indefinite backorder. I then ordered all the pieces individually, and it did cost more, but I got everything in the kit infusing the infamous 2 screws. Started the install yesterday. Ran into a bunch of headaches trying to figure out how to disassemble the dash to install the new knee bolster, but got it figured out.

Right now I'm doing this to fix a problem with another accessory GM sells. For the new trucks the light bar from Baja Designs that installs onto the sport bar doesn't get a new switch for the dash, unlike the last generation of trucks. Instead they give you a key fob to control the light bar. I already ran into a problem where if the battery in the key fob gets low it won't turn off/on the light bar. Fortunately, the remote control box is easily replaceable, and Baja Designs makes a wire harness to use the upfitter switches for controlling the light bar. It's actuality something they made for Ford. Using the harness you can either have full lighting all the time or 75% lighting. Full lighting is more than 25 amps, so that'll go on switches 1 or 2. 75% lighting is less than 25 amps, so that'll use switches 3, 4, or 5. I'm planning on using switches 2 and 3 to keep it simple.

Btw, this install is being done on a 1500, therefore confirmed the 9L7 package will work on the half ton trucks.

Thank you for the great write up! One recommendation: I used fish tape that I bought at Harbor Freight for $10 to run my wires through the firewall.

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[Thaflood]

21 hours ago, Transient said:

I tried ordering the kit for my truck (jet black with push button start) through 3 online sources and my dealer. All 3 online sources canceled my order due to backorder status. When I attempted to order through my dealer they informed me the kit is on indefinite backorder. I then ordered all the pieces individually, and it did cost more, but I got everything in the kit infusing the infamous 2 screws. Started the install yesterday. Ran into a bunch of headaches trying to figure out how to disassemble the dash to install the new knee bolster, but got it figured out.

Right now I'm doing this to fix a problem with another accessory GM sells. For the new trucks the light bar from Baja Designs that installs onto the sport bar doesn't get a new switch for the dash, unlike the last generation of trucks. Instead they give you a key fob to control the light bar. I already ran into a problem where if the battery in the key fob gets low it won't turn off/on the light bar. Fortunately, the remote control box is easily replaceable, and Baja Designs makes a wire harness to use the upfitter switches for controlling the light bar. It's actuality something they made for Ford. Using the harness you can either have full lighting all the time or 75% lighting. Full lighting is more than 25 amps, so that'll go on switches 1 or 2. 75% lighting is less than 25 amps, so that'll use switches 3, 4, or 5. I'm planning on using switches 2 and 3 to keep it simple.

Btw, this install is being done on a 1500, therefore confirmed the 9L7 package will work on the half ton trucks.

Thank you for the great write up! One recommendation: I used fish tape that I bought at Harbor Freight for $10 to run my wires through the firewall.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

I just tried this as well, hopefully ordering each part individually works!

[Transient]

Just completed the install, and wired in my auxiliary lights. Now my truck won't start. Won't even attempt to crank. Everything looks fine. Nothing unusual showing up. Hit the OnStar and they're not showing anything unusual. They said I'm not locked out of my truck. Using my wife car to try a jump start. Same result. Battery gauge looks good. Anybody have a clue as to what could be happening here?

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[ekbruster]

Did you check to make sure the wiring harness attachment to your ignition switch didn't come loose when moving wires or the lower knee panel?   If you replaced the panel it most likely came detached or wasn't reconnected properly?  

[Transient]

Did you check to make sure the wiring harness attachment to your ignition switch didn't come loose when moving wires or the lower knee panel?   If you replaced the panel it most likely came detached or wasn't reconnected properly?  

Thanks for responding. I checked. Everything was connected. I'm OCD about making sure things are "perfect" and check everything multiple times while doing the work. That's part of the reason I didn't finish until today even though I started on Thursday. Furthermore, I tried jumpstarting with my wife's Traverse. That was unsuccessful. OnStar sent a roadside assistance person to me. They diagnosed the battery as weak, but not damaged. Initially placed their jump box on the battery and had the same result of not starting. Waited a few minutes on the box and it slowly cranked and came to life. Drove it around for over 45 minutes. We'll see if it starts up again soon. 

In other news, the lights on the auxiliary switches light up when pressed, but my light bar is not lighting up. Looks like I have more work to do.

 

Update: After the 45 minute drive, which was a mix of freeway, surface roads, and a Burger King drive thru, I parked my truck at the batting cages so my son could get some hitting in. When we climbed back into the truck it wouldn't start up. The saga continues...

 

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[Transient]

Post deleted: I'm going to start a new thread since my situation will be going off the topic of this thread. It is respect for the OP and the members that followed, thank you. The info is thread was very informative and helpful with getting my 9L7 switches installed.