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Let's install the "upfitter switches"


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I just did mine install in 1 hour and 20 minutes, that includes running wires from the Switches, into the engine compartment for future use. Two things to help you do this install;

 

First, insert a long screwdriver into the hole in the rubber boot from the engine side into the cab. Do this for two reasons, one, made sure the path for the new wire is clear and unobstructed, second, while the screwdriver is installed, go into the cab and look were it is located, that way you have a idea were to look for the wire you are going to insert. 

 

Second, spray a little wire lube in the rubber boot to make the wire slide in easier. Make up a 4 wire harness and stick it in the rubber boot after you insert the power wire. You might as well extend the wires from the switches while you have everything apart.

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When my truck came in after waiting out the strike I noticed the upfitter switch kit on the back seat. When I asked the salesman about it he said that Was to be installed by the customer. I said well I have a check for $75,000.00 to pick up the truck but you won’t be getting it till the switches are installed. The next day I picked up the truck with the switches installed problem solved. 

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  • 3 weeks later...
28 minutes ago, mostcorey95 said:

I was told by my dealer I cant install them due to not having the rpo code 9L7

I figured on something like that as well. I just wanted the hardware and fuses. If I have to, I'll wire them to battery power. I'm probably going to be running most of my accessories through a relay anyway. It'll pretty much be mostly lighting.

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  • 2 months later...
On 3/26/2020 at 4:17 PM, blamkin86 said:

 

First, grab the fuse box, and hold it near where we'll be installing it:

IMG_0597.jpg.0f450d511d7ab92edbd2666b1af8ac74.jpg

 

First, the black plug you just put on the red wire from the first steps, plug that into the fuse box. I don't have a picture of this, but there's only one place it can go.

 

At this point, you're switches are wired into the harness in your truck. 

 

 

 

 

 

I understand you can change the 5 switches as to where they are used with ignition on / engine running and or engine off and hot at all times controlled by the switch. Someone said by moving the fuse over in the same slot but different connection within the slot. Anyone got the new fuse panel where they can take a photo of the open fuse access? 

 

Chuck

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So I  went on a quest to get more info on the famous knee bolster removal and replacement. I know the up fitters #153 has a small pictures to kinda get some info BUT not enough. It was discovered that half the dash must be removed to get to it! It is because of 1 screw under the radio trim. I found a GM link to a PDF file on how to remove the dash trims for replacement of various panels. Here is the link

https://photos.app.goo.gl/d2UVb4djaqf3ashL9

So now this shows where the screws are as well as the push clips. 

 

I used the wrong link. Here is the correct link This is a PDF file.

https://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/1265/Instrument Panel Knee Bolster Replacement.pdf

 

 

Chuck

Edited by Gecko50
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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for the write up and the picks... For those of you not lucky enough to have GM at least change out the dash and gave you all the parts here are some photos to help with the process. FYI you have to disassemble a lot of things be prepared. I am also doing this on a 2020 AT4 3500.

 

1.  Push up on the gauge cover. Just the leather part.

IMG-0487.jpg

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7. This is probably the worst piece of trim in the world to get off. Its the little piece just under the break controller. It has two wings that go down either side. There is a clip at the end of each wing one on the left side front and right side front and one in the center.

IMG-0483.jpg

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