Jump to content

eassist mods.


Recommended Posts

Posted

just wanted to see what other owners are doing as to modifications of these trucks. Most of the mods i want to do  the people say they cant or wont work on an eassist truck. Also just started an eassist club take a look.

Posted

Hi,

 

I've done enough digging around to share my experiences:

 

Performance items: 

Cold Air Intakes: Only fitment issue is with CAIs since the coolant reservoir is moved to the front of the truck, just behind the radiator (stock location is replaced with another battery). Relocate the reservoir with some longer lines and all CAIs would work on the eAssist. I chose to trim the inlet pipe that came with the GM Performance Parts CAI and use a silicon elbow to get it to fit. Sounds great...at initial install my truck did take off faster because my wallet was lighter by about 0.3 ounces. 

 

Exhaust: Everything is the same as non-eAssist vehicles. Just remember eAssist will work to keep truck in AFM longer so you may want to keep the flapper or drive in D7 or get Range device. I'm running the GM Borla with flapper. Plenty loud and no chop in V4. Wife is super sensitive to sound and it's fine on long drives with her, but when she is riding in the truck I'm actually running 2 flappers...on kills V4 chop by controlling flow. The other kills all unpleasant sound by being louder and more unpleasant. If done differently, I'd go with Corsa Sport. Best sounding IMO.

 

I'm looking into SolerPerformance's TB right now. Debating if I want to try that out and if it would work or not without tuning and with my CAI. 

 

Tuning: No aftermarket support available. Demand isn't there so no company has spent the resources/funds to provide support. BUT it can be done, just need to find someone to do it. Definitely not worth the cost. Some tuners will say it's untouchable, can't be done, etc. That is crap. They are just too lazy or not enough know how/money. If it came with a factory tune, surely it can be tuned. This means forget about using aftermarket handhelds, etc. to get rid of AFM, change tire size, gear ratio, shift points, etc...will get a code that says "vehicle not supported". If you do regeared, larger tires, etc. the dealership would be able to reprogram those items for you.

 

AFM and auto start/stop: if you want to get rid of both, you can drive in D7. If you want to get rid of just auto start/stop, just drive in D8. If you still want to do both and keep 8th gear, you can use the Range device. Others have reported no issues with it. When I tried it out, vehicle would shift hard when coming to a stop. Not sure if it's the Range in combination with my CAI or what, but it does not do that when driving in D7 to deactivate AFM. I just drive with it on because that is how it's designed, and do frequent oil changes, etc. 

 

Suspension

Lots of suspension companies would say it doesn't work on eAssist vehicles probably because they've never tried to fit it. Just check the part numbers on eAssist trucks vs. non-eAssist ones and you will see that they are the same and so aftermarket suspension parts will work. Only issue is with calibrating the speedo, which the dealer or someone with the same equipment as the dealer and fix for you. My friend has a level kit and running 33s on his eAssist and hasn't changed his speedo. The shop told him they did, but they didn't. With the larger tires (and more load) the truck does not go into AFM as much anymore.

 

When times get better, I'm looking at Bilstein's all the way around, or if it gets way better, fox/king all the way around. 

 

I hope this helps!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...