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Alignment needed on new vehicle. Thoughts?

0REDSOX7
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oldmann Senior Enthusiast

oldmann

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Posted

Nothing wrong with getting an alignment as soon as you want.  They are often out of spec in my experience.  Wish I would have done it with my 19.  Tires are not wearing evenly with a 6000k rotation interval.  Always worked before.  

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0REDSOX7 Enthusiast

0REDSOX7

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Bringing this back up...finally hit 750 miles after three months and two days of ownership. scheduled my appointment for today. Dropped it off and was told there were two recalls - one for the brake system programming and one for the wire harness rub. 
 

They got the recalls done first - then spent five hours trying to align it. They called me tonight at 5:30 and said there is “more wrong with it then a typical alignment should fix” and that they needed to ask GM how to proceed. 

any idea what could be wrong?

 

Was offered a loaner, which I will pick up tomorrow. 
 

like...really?!?  Lol. 

Edited by 0REDSOX7
gearheadesw Senior Enthusiast

gearheadesw

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, 0REDSOX7 said:

Bringing this back up...finally hit 750 miles after three months and two days of ownership. scheduled my appointment for today. Dropped it off and was told there were two recalls - one for the brake system programming and one for the wire harness rub. 
 

They got the recalls done first - then spent five hours trying to align it. They called me tonight at 5:30 and said there is “more wrong with it then a typical alignment should fix” and that they needed to ask GM how to proceed. 

any idea what could be wrong?

 

Was offered a loaner, which I will pick up tomorrow. 
 

like...really?!?  Lol. 

 

 

Whoa, tell us what they find, please.....

0REDSOX7 Enthusiast

0REDSOX7

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Well. Latest update said that they have talked to the GM tech engineers and are now involving the power steering control module and some updated programming...

Chevyguy273 Enthusiast

Chevyguy273

Posted
Posted
On 4/27/2020 at 9:49 PM, Grumpy Bear said:

My 2015 was out of spec on the lot. GM gave the 'wait' and  I took it to my guy. (I only go to GM for recalls) There's aligned "within factory spec" and then there is aligned right. I've had it checked twice since. Once after I installed the King/Bell setup and once when I changed spring rates. Now at 113,000 on the OEM 'crap box' Bridgestone tires with a good ways to do. They will literally date out before they wear out. Also has a HUGE impact on fuel efficiency. Nokia tire, one of the oldest, says rotation ever 3-5K and get ****** about tire pressures. I balance every other service. Just standard spin. No 'road force' ferry dust.  Has worked for me. When I buy my next set the shop does free rotations. 

 

 

 

 

Honda told me my 2006 Civic was in spec. Eating tires every 10-12K. Then...well....control arm length is not right so replaced. Ate tires every 8K. (Replacements were actually worse) MOOG adjustable upper rear control arms and MY NUMBERS. 80-100K per set since.

 

You have to be your own advocate. 

 

 

Hey Grumpy Bear. I totally agree. Some things. You just have to get it done yourself. But. I must ask. How are you getting 113,000 miles on the oem Bridgestone rubber? And still using them? Are they the all terrain Dueller? Or the all season Dueller? Either way. What is your secret. 

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted

Now at 120,000 miles and just under 5/32". They dated out end of last month so I plan to change them at 125 K and I will be leaving about 25 K on the table. Bridgestone Dueler 684 II HT 255/70R17. Factory issue. 

 

1.) Drive it like a golf cart. Still on OEM brakes too and still over 90% pad. I'm not headed to a fire. 

2.) Fanatical about tire pressures. 35 psi cold set with race gauge to > 1/4 pound early in the day.  

3.) Rotate every 5 K my OCI

4.) Balance every 10 K. Simple balance not some fancy road force balance. Tape weights not flange weight. Rim middle. 

5) Alignment very neutral. 3 times during this period. Will do again with tire replacement. Steer ahead is zero. 

6.) Great shocks.

7.) Didn't believe everything I heard about those "junk factory cheap-O tires" and kept them. 

 

Snapchat-1214659268.thumb.jpg.8add9d7fda5d3bbca92ef3cc2a7af75e.jpg

 

Note this alignment is dead nuts center not just 'In Spec"?  I don't accept it's 'In spec' or 'close enough' reasoning. I pay for it, just do it.  It was awful when I bought it. Insist on before and after and an after than is perfect. takes him a few extra minutes. Someone will do it. 

 

If most of your miles are loaded so that the frame is level the set your alignment for that condition. If unloaded like mine then set it for that condition. Example:

 

My RCSB has a 119" wheelbase. New it sat 3.5" higher in the rear. When I leveled it the front and rear were the same. Taking 3.5 net inches from the rake on a 119" wheelbase adds 1 degree 41.5 minutes of castor (1.685 degrees). As delivered the truck had 3.5 degrees left and 3.2 degrees right so when lowered (or loaded for a stock truck) this DIRECTLY translates to that exact amount being added to the castor thus my dropped caster was around 5.15 degree positive. Out of spec. Harsh and heavy steering. 

 

If my truck were used 50/50 loaded or not using the lower setting unloaded translates to in spec loaded as well. Steering would feel very light  unloaded. Poor alignment not only is a tire killer it eats fuel too. 

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted

Additional information. I don't think Joe Average understands that when you alter the ride height you automatically change: 

 

1.) Center of gravity

2.) Roll and yaw center height

3.) Scrub radius and cornering radius differential

 

All of this affects your  lift and squat under acceleration and braking. Can induce bump steer, steering feed back, dynamic camber. KP angle. All this can make the truck unstable in corners and act funny under hard braking and cornering.

 

Changing 'net' wheel offsets or use of wheel spacers makes the suspension dynamically impossible to keep in spec.

Going from 31" to 35" alters scrub radius and affects stability and effort unless there are some well thought out control arm length changes. 

 

You stack a few of these together in the wrong direction and it isn't just harmful, it's unsafe. 

 

Just saying it takes more than a pocket book to alter correctly and safely.  

0REDSOX7 Enthusiast

0REDSOX7

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Okay - got my truck back today. 
 

Basically the alignment was so jacked up from the factory - way out of spec, that, when they actually aligned it, the steering wheel was so far off center that it was causing issues with the traction control system and power steering control module. 
 

They had to align in, center the wheel, reprogram the power steering control module and show it as centered. 
 

Drives like a dream now...

 

I have to take it back when the parts come in to fix the chaffed wiring harness. 

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