Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
How far down did you take the headliner, and how easy was it?

Didn’t drop the headliner at all to drill the hole or run the cable. Used a wire hanger to fish the last 6 inches on the passenger side as the cable started to curl up instead of continue to the door side. A wire hanger can also be used to push the wire from the hole to the doors. I run it down the b-pillar.

Just be careful, there’s not a lot of room after you punch through the roof, that headliner sits pretty close and you’ll go right through it if not careful. Let the tool do the work, don’t push on the drill and you’ll be alright.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Posted

Did you use a hole saw bit? I’ve always took the head liner down and shined up the underside of the roof to ensure a good ground,  plus the type of antenna I was installing required mounting from underneath anyway.   That was for CB installations. My work car I drove for about 25 years (had the big ol’ whup antenna with 6” spring before that) had several of those antennas like you installed. Occasionally had problems with them, but not often. I’ve got all the ham equipment, just never have taken the test although I’ve intended to do so.

Posted
Did you use a hole saw bit? I’ve always took the head liner down and shined up the underside of the roof to ensure a good ground,  plus the type of antenna I was installing required mounting from underneath anyway.   That was for CB installations. My work car I drove for about 25 years (had the big ol’ whup antenna with 6” spring before that) had several of those antennas like you installed. Occasionally had problems with them, but not often. I’ve got all the ham equipment, just never have taken the test although I’ve intended to do so.

Yeah I use a hole saw. Gotta be careful with those too because some cut the hole too big even though they’re 3/4”. Guess they’re thinking 3/4” inner diameter conduit so they account for the pipe wall.

NMO mounts have little teeth that pierce through whatever coating is on the underside. Eight antennas in 3 vehicles so far and I’ve never had to dress up the underside.

As for dropping the headliner: looks easy but seems like a lot of work.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Posted
1 hour ago, Jav_eee said:


Yeah I use a hole saw. Gotta be careful with those too because some cut the hole too big even though they’re 3/4”. Guess they’re thinking 3/4” inner diameter conduit so they account for the pipe wall.

NMO mounts have little teeth that pierce through whatever coating is on the underside. Eight antennas in 3 vehicles so far and I’ve never had to dress up the underside.

As for dropping the headliner: looks easy but seems like a lot of work.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Yes, the only problems I saw with those antennas was if the hole was drilled a little big and they couldn’t get a good bite. Never knew of good antenna for 11 meters that used the NMO. There were some, functional at best,  and most couldn’t take more that a few watts of power. 

Posted
Yes, the only problems I saw with those antennas was if the hole was drilled a little big and they couldn’t get a good bite. Never knew of good antenna for 11 meters that used the NMO. There were some, functional at best,  and most couldn’t take more that a few watts of power. 


11 meter as in CB freqs? What about the Larsen NMO27?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Posted
17 hours ago, Jav_eee said:

 


11 meter as in CB freqs? What about the Larsen NMO27?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

Two problems with that antenna. Performance being one because it is short compared to a full 1/4 wave. And,  I occasionally run a amp. That antenna won't hold up if you hit it with much power. If I ever get around to getting my license, I'll put a 2 meter radio in and I will use NMO for that.

  • 6 months later...
Posted

When ya'll say 16" from the back, are you talking about extended cab or crew cabs? Or does it matter either way?

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
When ya'll say 16" from the back, are you talking about extended cab or crew cabs? Or does it matter either way?


My measurement is for a crew cab.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  • 1 year later...
Posted

Reviving this thread.  I'm very interested in installing a CB in my Trail Boss, but I have the full center console.  I'm considering mounting the radio under the front passenger seat and using the mic only to change channels, etc.  I'm also apprehensive about drilling the roof, and have considered mounting 1 or 2 antennas to the top of the GM Accessories sportbar behind or next to the Baja Designs light bar.  If not on top, then on the inside sides via antenna mounts from Axia Alloys.  I like the idea of having a scanner, like the Bearcat 990, and a few other things.  Also want to install a HAM radio later on.  Thoughts, help, and guidance would be greatly appreciated. 

 

I plan on stopping by a store in my area called Ham Radio Outlet to sell their advice as well, but more advice is always appreciated.

Posted

@Transient I ended up putting mine on the bed rail near the drivers side cab. I can unscrew it when needed (parking garage or car wash).

Probably not the best for reception, but works fine for my use.

Posted
6 hours ago, nichos said:

@Transient I ended up putting mine on the bed rail near the drivers side cab. I can unscrew it when needed (parking garage or car wash).

Probably not the best for reception, but works fine for my use.

I think I stumbled upon another forum where you post up about the installs you've done.  I forget the name of the forum.  You seem knowledgeable, or could point me to the direction of somebody who does.  I stopped by Ham Radio Outlet.  That was a bust.  They didn't know a thing about CB.  Headed home I decided to stop by Off Road Warehouse because I thought they could provide some insight.  They referred me to another shop.  I went to that shop during normal business hours, but they were closed.  Called their number on Google Maps and ended up leaving a message.  I've been studying and learning, but info is sporadic, and seems a little overwhelming.  I could really use some help.  I'm leaning towards an All In One, but they seem to be hard to find.  I've found only 2.  One is the Cobra 75 WX ST.  The other is Uniden CMX760.  Both seem to be hit or miss with the reviews.  After CB in considering getting into GMRS and HAM, but also want a police scanner in the truck.  I could really use help sorting this out. 

Posted

Check out walcott cb . (iowa). Check out your area for a two-way shop ? I had nine installed , where they build emergency units , they also ran my power wire.  Good luck

Posted
7 hours ago, slj2008 said:

Check out walcott cb . (iowa). Check out your area for a two-way shop ? I had nine installed , where they build emergency units , they also ran my power wire.  Good luck

Thanks for the referral.  I'll looking into Walcott.  I've been looking for places in San Diego, but they are all saying to checking out the places I've already been to.  The place I mentioned previously that I left a message with did call back today.  They referred me to the Ham radio store I mentioned first.  The shop that called me says they specialize in police radios, and also happen to be booked solid through February.  After a little more prodding they did recommend a car stereo shop, but I think it was so the guy could get me off the phone.

Posted
On 12/29/2021 at 5:16 AM, Transient said:

but also want a police scanner in the truck

Have you looked at the Uniden Beartracker 885?  It's a CB with a police/fire/ems/dot scanner in one unit.  It has GPS so it scans the frequencies in use in your locality and will change them as you move from one locality to another. Pretty slick!

Posted (edited)
17 hours ago, FarmerMaggot said:

Have you looked at the Uniden Beartracker 885?  It's a CB with a police/fire/ems/dot scanner in one unit.  It has GPS so it scans the frequencies in use in your locality and will change them as you move from one locality to another. Pretty slick!

I have, and I like it, but I don't think it's best for me.  I don't want to take up space for passenger legroom in the front seat.  Safety regarding my son and wife.  I have the full center console.  The other option is to mount it in the bin above the radio on the top of dash.  My concern there is that it could lead to my truck being broken into.  I park in my driveway, and not the street, and there's a camera over my truck to catch any thieves.  My windows are also tinted.  Still, I'm trying to be as discreet as possible.  All of these safety precautions have not prevented vehicles from being broken into in my neighborhood.  We even having roving security.  That's why I'm looking at the all-in-one handset radios, and something like a short whip antenna, or the midland ghost antenna, that'll sit behind my lightbar on top of the sportbar.

 

Btw, I'm also looking into GMRS radios, and getting the license, too.

Edited by Transient

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,357 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
    • 286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...