Jump to content

Loading a Snowmobile with a GMC Pro Tailgate

Like A Rock
 Share

Recommended Posts

Like A Rock Enthusiast

Like A Rock

Posted
Posted (edited)

Does anyone have experience with loading a a snowmobile into the the box of a GMC with the Pro Tailgate? 

 

Thanks 

Edited by Like A Rock
typo
jflan23 Enthusiast

jflan23

Posted
Posted

224f82867eda8e50cc2a2e02e9269e3a.jpg
No issues here. I used a piece of angle iron across the whole lip of the tailgate at first.... but quickly gave up. The multi pro takes the weight fine.

  • Thanks 2
PabloK Enthusiast

PabloK

Posted
Posted

truck rides better with a sled in the back, its great.

 

 

i like this ramp,  the big padded clamps dont dig into the tailgate and scratch it like several others i tried.

 

built in safety strap with clamp is nice too

 

Caliber-CBR-13526-PRO

 

 

IMG_0306.jpg

  • Thanks 1
  • 1 month later...
chukronos Enthusiast

chukronos

Posted
Posted

I know I am bringing up an old post, but I can't find the answer. I thought the tailgate cold only hold 375 pounds. How much weight can it actually hold? 

ullose272 Enthusiast

ullose272

Posted
Posted
I know I am bringing up an old post, but I can't find the answer. I thought the tailgate cold only hold 375 pounds. How much weight can it actually hold? 
Probably around that. The reality is you wont ever have the full weight of a sled on the tailgate,

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

carkhz316 Enthusiast

carkhz316

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, davester said:

375 seems pretty low.  They'd need a warning that 2 people can't sit on the tailgate at the same time....

Or more than one average 'Murcian

  • 2 years later...
Luke Livingston New Member

Luke Livingston

Posted
Posted

Old post but hoping to get some feedback. 

What ramp do you guys suggest? Also anyway to protect the tailgate from damage? Will be loading a polaris assault 144" in the back. I have a hard tunnel cover (rev industries) the sleds front end should clear so I won't have to remove the cover correct? 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • DaleB
      No Software Updates - Old Build

      By DaleB · Posted

      Hi all - my current truck is a 2022.5 1500 High Country 3.0. I bought the truck used last year. After doing some digging, I noticed that my truck's software is stuck on the original build from 2022. I have no available software updates. I talked to my dealer about this and they recommended not trying to force an update since the 36,000 mile warranty is expired. This is a big bummer since there have been many major releases since that have fixed small issues and improved speed/usability.   For reference, the current software build number is: full_gminfo37_gb-user 10 W158E-W164.4.2-QIH22B-563.3 158 release-keys Has anyone had a similar experience? Should I just forget about it and move on, or try a different dealer?
    • B07
      Needing this part.

      By B07 · Posted

      Sure. Buy it for me 🤣
    • B07
      Needing this part.

      By B07 · Posted

      Using zip ties but 2-3 they snap due to sharp edges. Just using a shoestring. Last longer. 🤣
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      I ordered the Snap On...waiting for it to come in later this week or early next week.   New front cover, new crank seal and new balancer are on. Water pump, pulley, fan, hoses, and plastics reinstalled. I can move forward knowing all my timing marks are dead on and the front engine is hopefully sealed better than it was. Take 2 with the water pump...trying high temp thread sealer on the lower bolts.   Rebuilt injector and new-new regulator is in, it looks like new. Top intake reassembled and all the bits are reconnected and snugged down.   Thinking about knock sensors again, I located both of mine and, there's your problem, Francis... The driver's side one is broke, plastic is bashed in, part of the wire is bare, and it appears to have been damaged like that for a long time. I saw the wire but didn't think anything of it. The knock sensor might not be my pulled timing issue, but it sure looks suspect. It must still be conducting, otherwise I'd expect a CEL. But perhaps with its sacred crystal inside exposed, jilted and dirty, maybe it's sending mixed signals. So I'm waiting for one of those and a new pigtail to come in. Pass side sensor looks good, except for the spark plug wire resting on it (!). The plug wires are healthy so it shouldn't be causing an issue, but I separated them and added zip ties to nearby looms to keep everything well apart.   So, I'm down to installing a knock sensor AND, oh, replacing the exhaust and cat. I actually think that's going to be fairly easy, it's all bolt-together, all new stuff from Walker is laid out on the shop floor ready to go. Hopefully have this thing on the road again for the weekend.   My luck? It will still be leaking oil, coolant, pulled timing, intermittent CEL for running rich, or it probably won't run at all -- because that's how this project has gone.   I've never worked on a vehicle so ...hurt? ...cursed? in my life. Everything has been effed with SO HARD, but I think...knock on wood...I've managed to undo all the backyard stuff and we're almost reset back to "just" an 80k mile, 30 year old Blazer.
    • PunchT37
      Would this CV Shaft be bad?

      By PunchT37 · Posted

      Yes. You need to check out that thing, and the hub further.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...