Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

my center console wont open so have to go to dealership, I am pretty sure they are gonna have to replace it, idk if they can just get the lid open and not too sure they wont break it or something else just trying to get it open (I have tried and its jammed pretty good)....what are are my chances I can get a full center console (upcharge maybe?)....I think the whole console comes as a complete unit with seat as well, since I wont have one to sell after upgrade to recoup.....they should have checked vehicle over imo….I wanted bucket seats but their wasn't any available unless I went up to LTZ....anyone have any luck scoring an upgrade from defective part, I actually wouldn't mind paying a lil extra at all for full console as long as I get bit of deal for headache

 

I am waiting for dealer to call me to let me know my local dealer has a FOB and manual before I make appt for console

Edited by Dunn
Posted

There was a thread about this awhile back, I'm not 100% sure but I don't think there is a lid that opens on the LT trim trucks.  

Posted
3 minutes ago, 07HD said:

I don't think there is a lid that opens on the LT trim trucks.  

That would make a lot of sense why it won't open ????

Posted

Both my wife's 2020 HD 2500 and my 2020 1500 are LT's and they have opening lids on the consoles.

Posted
25 minutes ago, Booger T said:

Both my wife's 2020 HD 2500 and my 2020 1500 are LT's and they have opening lids on the consoles.

Can you post some pics of it open on the 2500, curious on what the latch mechanism looks like.

 

Maybe we can help the OP with what might have failed.

Posted (edited)

LT console opens, I specifically got this trim level because I am well aware of the custom trim that doesn't open....it has the latch, you can feel it wants too, but the pin is stuck or not engaging far enough to release it....I just traded in my 2019 RST with same console

 

on the custom and WT there isn't even a latch to press....mine has latch its just stuck and I can get it open if I break it but then it becomes my problem....currently its theirs to deal with

 

was just curious as to scoring the full floor console since they probably have to replace it anyway, I doubt they will even try and probably break it anyways, most likely they will just unbolt it from floor order the whole thing and send this one back....that's my guess anyway

Edited by Dunn
Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, MTU Alum said:

Work truck and custom trims don't have center console storage. 

 

#iworkforGM 

you thinks its possible I could just get upgrade to full floor console for bit of an upcharge?....idk what dept you work at over or is it not even worth bringing it up when I get there?

Edited by Dunn
  • 7 months later...
Posted (edited)

I'm having the same issue. 2020 Silverado 2500 HD LT Z71 package.  Anyone know if there's recall on the latch?  It seems the fold up seat and the cover operate on the same locking mechanism.  When the seat can be moved the cover stays locked  and vice versa.  On mine the seat won't lock into place and the cover won't release.  It's happened twice now.  The first time a few months back.  By chance, I was able to free it up the first time.   This time not so much.  

Edited by 1JB
Spelling
Posted

I had this problem when I picked up my truck new from the dealer. The salesperson said she didn't think it was supposed to open. I told her it has a latch. It has to open. I didn't want to break it by forcing it. So she called someone over from the service department and he fussed with it for several minutes and finally got it to open. It hasn't been a problem since.

Posted

yeah i got mine to open with a thin metal bar and some pressure to pull forward and up for the latch back far enough to release it.......same as above hasnt been a problem since.....now one of my power folding mirrors wont close

 

 

 

 

Posted (edited)

My local dealer was able to fix the problem. The console lid and jump seat latch are set up to operate dependently.  If the jump seat is in the open position for seating, do not open the console lid.  That's how the latch locks up.  If it does happen, you have to pull the rubber cup holders out to access and loosen the latch mounting screws.  The cup holders can be removed easy enough, they just carefully pull free from the console lid.  With the screws loose, the latch can be moved a tiny bit to release the lockup.  The Servuce Manager told me the latch is not normally adjustable so don't mess with it if you don't have to.  The service trick might save a trip to the dealer.

Edited by 1JB
Spelling
  • 3 years later...
Posted

2023 custom trail boss, center council won't open, when you pull on the handle to open it feels like it is almost going to open, I have never even lifted the council for anyone to sit there. Pretty disappointed, esp for how many miles are on it, and I felt like an ass an was very embarrassed when I went through the drive thru at McDonald's and couldnt get to my money to pay.By reading through the posts this seems to be an issue in alot of chevys old and new, surprised they haven't fixed the issue.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...