Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2015 Silverado LT with reflector style housings and DRL. I went with the SV 4 from head light revolution .

https://headlightrevolution.com/2014-2018-chevrolet-silverado-1500-low-beam-reflector-led-conversion-kit-v-4/

 

My truck is does not have CANBUS. And it runs the DRL just fine with the LED bulbs. I know there are differences between how the projector headlights and reflector headlights work. Hopefully this helps. Good luck!

 

Posted
On 7/5/2020 at 12:08 PM, Mozzer said:

There's a lot I can't help with but being in Canada I can say your right on the reduced voltage, my silverado showed 9 volts & it uses the low beam light so it didn't matter to me that would be on so I just looked for bulbs that were rated to run at 8 volts or more. They are probably full strength or close to it even at the lower voltage.

Definitely need to check yours doesn't use the high beam for DRLs, that is common on lots of vehicles.

Sent from my SM-A705W using Tapatalk
 

Maybe my eye site is failing me, but what style headlight do you have and what bulb do you have?

Posted
Maybe my eye site is failing me, but what style headlight do you have and what bulb do you have?
2014 regular halogens originally can't remember the bulb type, would have to check on that 2f7f0d7e4ef04bb67b713f8822aac466.jpg

Sent from my SM-A705W using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

just an FYI...we just upgraded our Yukon headlights (seperate high and low beam bulbs) with Auxito y13 LED bulbs and they are awesome...i shopped around quite a bit and found them to be the best design (at least i thought)...they are awesome!

 

here is a link to what we got on amazon...check the size to make sure you get the right bulb though...

 

https://www.amazon.com/Headlight-Bulbs-Sized-AUXITO-Cooling/dp/B07WD6G42D/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=auxito+y13&qid=1594737338&sr=8-1

 

Edited by spenpet
additional info
Posted
13 hours ago, Nitrousbird said:

I'll just leave this here:

https://jalopnik.com/why-most-led-headlight-upgrades-dont-really-work-an-ex-1843070472

 

Now my factory LED's rock, but LED's in a halogen housing are a very different story, as described in the link...

to each there own...i could supply a dozen actual real life tests and prove this article wrong...but not worth my time...its funny...because my exact vehicle has both halogen and LED options...IN THE SAME HOUSING...but I digress...

 

my LED UPGRADE was well worth it...everyone will have to make their own decisions...

 

however, there are certainly much better options and some very crappy options out there...the crappy ones would probably fit into this article...the good ones are worth it...

Posted
26 minutes ago, spenpet said:

to each there own...i could supply a dozen actual real life tests and prove this article wrong...but not worth my time...its funny...because my exact vehicle has both halogen and LED options...IN THE SAME HOUSING...but I digress...

 

my LED UPGRADE was well worth it...everyone will have to make their own decisions...

 

however, there are certainly much better options and some very crappy options out there...the crappy ones would probably fit into this article...the good ones are worth it...

I agree, the halogens that were in my 2015 reflector housing did not put nearly enough focused light down the road as the SV-4 LED lights I installed. These lights are not only brighter but a more focused light further down the road. 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
On 7/15/2020 at 8:44 AM, J.H.2015LT said:

I agree, the halogens that were in my 2015 reflector housing did not put nearly enough focused light down the road as the SV-4 LED lights I installed. These lights are not only brighter but a more focused light further down the road. 

we have a 2019 Yukon (projector low beams more of a standard reflector high beam housing)...replaced both, and both are as good as my 2016 LTZ with factory LED bulbs...  the halogen bulbs were terrible...

 

we went with the Auxito Y13...and they are great...part of what makes an LED successful is how well does the position replicates the original halogen and how narrow is the mount/board the diodes are on...

 

**Edit** here are two pics...i should have taken this on the street to really show the difference, but it is pretty clear the LEDs are FAR superior to the halogens...low beam top pi (notice how it still maintains a nice clean line and high beam pics, which dont need to have the clean line...the halogen doesn't either)...

 

large.557395276_lowbeams.jpg.62712a39b0f0de1df17eb0ef78b7ac1e.jpglarge.276902748_highbeams.jpg.eb2fad787df853371b2f47a4137dd267.jpg

Edited by spenpet
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 459 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...