Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2020 GMC Sierra with a 6.2L. It has a total of 5900 km or 3670 miles. About 950 miles ago noticed that the idle was getting rough and when I would use the remote start in the morning after it sat overnight it puffed blue smoke out of the exhaust.  It disappeared after about 10 seconds.  Turns out that at lease 1 valve guide was not sealing properly. The dealer is changing all the seals on both heads and I am going to ask that the spark plug(s) also be changed since I believe they are dirtyIMG_4056.thumb.JPG.da0271df33778f1dc5dce0353360764c.JPG from the burning oil. Has anyone experienced this?

  • 2 months later...
Posted

I have a 2020 GMC Sierra 1500 AT4 with the 6.2L. I have noticed while driving the truck that it blow blueish gray smoke out the back while leaving from a stop sign. Sometimes it is very large some times you can barley see it. Doesnt happen all the time. I changed my oil and after 2000 miles the low oil level light came on I was down 3 quarts of oil. I immediatly made and appt with the dealer. They told me I needed to do an oil consumtion test. So I did that. In 1000 miles I was down 1 1/4- 1 1/2 quarts of oil. They told me to bring it back in 500-1000 miles again. That was unexceptable to me. So after a few phone calls the dealer took the truck in to look at it. They had to call the GM engineers and talk with them they found that cylinder 7 had bad valve seals and valve guide. They replaced the entire cyclinder head. I picked it up on friday after them having it a week. I drove the 11 miles home. On saturday I drove 70 miles and sunday night on my way to work 23 miles it blew a big puff of smoke again. So monday morning I took It back to the dealer and told them it wasnt fixed. They look at it and on tuesday they said they vouldnt find any issues with the truck and for me to pick the truck up. So I reluctantly did. Called GM help line. I already had a case because thats the only way the dealer would look at my truck and explained the situation. The escaladed it up to their SR advisors. So I waited 2 days to hear from them just to repeat myself of everything that was said in the first 2 conversations. They tell me they have to reach out to the service manager and will call me back on monday. So yesterday they call me back just to tell me that they havent been able to get in touch with thwm and they would call me back on weds. So meanwhile I am driving a brand new expensive truck that smokes when it wants to and burns oil. The dealer has already told me its normal and wanted me to except that for an answer. So far not good customer service from dealer or GM. I guess a smoking burning oil issue isnt a safty concern. I have taken videos of it happening because the dealer cant replicate the problem and says it doesnt exsist. Showed the video to them and they say a cloud of smoke is normal. 

Posted

mexican engine or usa ?

Posted

The engine assembly location is on your truck's new window sticker. My 5.3 engine and transmission was made in Tonawanda new York. 

Posted

I didn't know GM had an engine plant in Mexico. My 2020 GMC Sierra was assembled in Mexico, but the 5.3L was made in Flint.

Posted

Hooley17, I can understand your frustration. My brother in law in Fort Worth has a 2019 AT4 with the 6.2L. Drives the hell

out of it on his ranch & in the city. I will ask him today if he has had issues. 

Posted

I know GM has great engineers & their engines are thoroughly tested. I wonder if 0W-20 oil has anything to do with it?

 

Ford still uses 5W-30 & I wish GM could hit their mileage numbers with that grade of oil as well 

Posted
1 hour ago, Jay Curlin said:

I know GM has great engineers & their engines are thoroughly tested. I wonder if 0W-20 oil has anything to do with it?

 

Ford still uses 5W-30 & I wish GM could hit their mileage numbers with that grade of oil as well 

Ford calls for 5W-20 on the F150 V8 and has for many many years.  The number before the W (stands for Winter) is the cold viscosity rating for the oil.  Both 0W-20 and 5W-20 are 20 wt oils at normal operating temps (210°F). The viscosity has nothing to do with using oil, that's mechanical condition with parts that are on the high end of the tolerance limits.  

 

0W-20 engine oil can reduce the startup load by making it easier to turn over a cold engine and the impact is felt at higher temperatures than most consumers would think,  not simply to what feels cold to humans - warm summers days are cold to an parked engine.  Also these newer engines with Variable Valve Timing and Active Fuel Management operate at peak efficiency with the oem recommended viscosity. 

Posted

My 2017 Expedition with 3.5L Ecoboost V6 twin turbo used 5W-30. That is Ford's most popular engine. If they have moved it

to 5W-20 I stand corrected. Yes, I would never suggest using another grade of oil than recommended by the manufacturer. I'm

simply amazed at the liquidity of these oils today. GM is even running 0W-20 in their new baby Duramax......and with an aluminum

block. Real interested to see how those do at 150,000 miles plus. Reviews are fantastic on that motor

Posted
1 hour ago, Jay Curlin said:

My 2017 Expedition with 3.5L Ecoboost V6 twin turbo used 5W-30. That is Ford's most popular engine. If they have moved it

to 5W-20 I stand corrected. Yes, I would never suggest using another grade of oil than recommended by the manufacturer. I'm

simply amazed at the liquidity of these oils today. GM is even running 0W-20 in their new baby Duramax......and with an aluminum

block. Real interested to see how those do at 150,000 miles plus. Reviews are fantastic on that motor

Your are comparing GM V8 engines to Ford's hair dryer V6.  GM calls for 5W-30 in the V6 as well. 

Ford V8 calls for 5W-20 since 2002.

 

 

ENGINE—ENGINE OIL—RECOMMENDED Article No.
APPLICATIONS FOR SAE 5W-20 AND SAE 5W-30 02-1-9
MOTOR OILS—GASOLINE AND FLEXIBLE FUEL
VEHICLES ONLY

 

Testing has validated this viscosity grade can be
used in many previous model year vehicles. It is
recommended ALL vehicles on the following Vehicle
Application Listing be service with SAE 5W-20.
All 2001-2002 vehicles other than those listed in the
“Exception 2001 Vehicles” or “Exception 2002
Vehicles” chart are being filled with SAE 5W-20
motor oil at the factory and should also be serviced
with SAE 5W-20 oil.
 

Posted
My 2017 Expedition with 3.5L Ecoboost V6 twin turbo used 5W-30. That is Ford's most popular engine. If they have moved it
to 5W-20 I stand corrected. Yes, I would never suggest using another grade of oil than recommended by the manufacturer. I'm
simply amazed at the liquidity of these oils today. GM is even running 0W-20 in their new baby Duramax......and with an aluminum
block. Real interested to see how those do at 150,000 miles plus. Reviews are fantastic on that motor


Camaros run 0W-40 now


Ryan B.
Posted


Camaros run 0W-40 now


Ryan B.
Which Camaros? Iirc, there's 4 different engines in that car. Also, there are differences between LT1 and L87, even if the architecture is the same or similar.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,913
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Smitty462
    Newest Member
    Smitty462
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 1 Anonymous, 705 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...