Jump to content

2018 LTZ 20" Wheel Swap


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello all. Got ny 2018 Silverado LTZ and it has the 20" chrome wheels on it. Rides pretty rough and can feel every bump on the road. Use to my 2006 with 17" on it. 

 

So the question for discussion is if I placed 18" or 17" on the LTZ will the wheels/tires be too small looking and not fill in the wheel well? 

 

Also, will the LTZ ride smoother?

 

Anyone done this type of swap out yet?

 

So what you all say as I new to this truck.  Thanks in advance for input.

Posted

If the 18's have the correct size tires they will be pretty close in size to the 20's. You can look at pictures or just other trucks on the road to see what it looks like.

 

More sidewall with good tires should ride better than 20's with less sidewall.

Posted

GM trucks come with tires of roughly the same diameter/circumference. 17's have a lot of sidewall, 22's not much at all. As said, more sidewall equals softer ride.

Posted

I have factory 20's on my LTZ and the ride is great. I run 18's in the winter with the appropriate sized tire and the ride is also great (more sidewall) so if you drop down to a 17 (or 18) with the right tire you will be good.

 

What size and brand tire do you have on your wheels now? If they are lower quality or a small size that will affect the quality of the ride.

Posted

My 2018 slt premium plus came with those horrible “Chrome clad” 20” wheels that are actually an aluminum wheel with a PLASTIC chrome cover glued on. Premium my azz.

I’ve since sold those and went to 17” BFG 285/70/17 for winter. They are load range E and honestly ride is about the same.

I have 18” AT4 wheels 265/65/18 Goodyear wrangler fortitude HT for summer and they are a little softer than BFG and stock 20” but not much. I run 44 psi for better wear and mpg. Lowering air pressure to stock 32 / 35 psi hardly makes a ride difference for me.

I’m running Bilstein 5100 shocks as well so that stiffens everything up.

My truck is max tow so rear springs are stiffer and possibly front as well vs a standard half ton.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I wonder what the price is out at the coast, Big Sur or other out of the way locations as I bet they are charging quite a premium over the in land pumps. 
    • Were you looking at the HD trucks on the GM website or the half tons as that makes all the difference. As far as I know there are only two options for the HD trucks and that is the standard 2 speed transfer case or the 2 speed transfer case that has the added 4 high auto feature and they put that transfer case by default into the LTZ and High Country although its optional in the LT and not sure if its available in the work trucks.    The half tons, that is where its been a total mess in my estimation for a few years now with most trucks below the top trim having the single speed transfer case as standard but with the option of having the two speed such as one would get by choosing the Z71 package, however then not being able to get the two speed transfer case with the towing package unless it was a higher trim truck AND had the 6.2 gas so one could combine the towing package gearing diffs with the two speed transfer case. Having said that if its a trail boss package then it gets the two speed transfer case but not necessarily able to get the tow package as it would depend on trim level and engine chosen. Believe me, people have bought the GM half tons assuming "of course it will have a two speed transfer case" only to find out after when they really pay attention to what they now own .... crap, there is NO low range !.    I don't believe Ford or Ram have gone that way yet with their half tons but like I say its been a few years now that GM has done this with the half tons. 
    • $5.19 for regular...
    • My office is slowly filling with Blazer parts. Getting ready to do the big bang of repairs. Intake (second time), water pump, radiator, hoses, and I'm going to re-seal the timing cover where someone went hog wild with silicone. Might as well, because I don't think that's done right.   There's a local tow yard that I didn't realize also has quite the inventory of junk vehicles. This is an old school junkyard. No waivers. Cash only, you were never here if anyone asks. Don't piss off the owner, or you'll end up in the back of one of those cars, headed for the shredder. And if you see something, don't snitch. Cars stacked double high, wasps nests, trip hazards and junk everywhere. I found a few little odds/ends for my Blazer. The $20 I spent was worth the experience alone. But I was never there. What yard?   I officially love/hate this truck. It's so out of my wheelhouse, roughest vehicle I've ever owned. Every. single. repair. -is so hard-fought, everything that can go wrong, goes wrong. Currently in a hate phase, and kind of wish I was closer to sending it down the road with a lucky new owner, to be honest. Preparing for the day when I tear into this thing...lots of pre-funk with Ibuprofen.   Rock Auto sent me a bad reman rear wiper motor. It was a bear to install. The tailgate in these things has about eleventy-billion fastners and pieces and things that need to be uninstalled/moved just to access the shoddy rear wiper motor. The casing on mine was cracked clean through, btw. Nice, GM, nice. SO I got this new motor installed, hit the switch, I see it wig-wag (without the arm installed) and think I'm golden. Reassemble everything. With the wiper arm installed I gave it one final test. Time to clean up and take the other half out to dinner, collect a paycheck, right?   Nope. I hear the plastic worm gear stripping as the arm hung up. Just like my broken motor. Weak/old and shredding itself internally. I can assist the arm and the range of motion is normal, and it parks correctly. It just doesn't have the poop to actually sweep the arm with a blade on it. Oh, hell. Turned the key off and shut the shop door behind me. I get to do that over again, too.
    • A complete delete is the most thorough mechanical solution, but it is also major engine work. On a quiet truck that is still under extended warranty, opening the engine purely as prevention is difficult to justify. A plug-in disabler stops commanded cylinder deactivation, but it does not remove or repair the collapsible lifters, so it should not be treated as failure insurance. I would keep the oil full, document the maintenance, and have any persistent tick, misfire, or loss of power diagnosed promptly. If the engine eventually has to come apart, that is the logical time to compare an OEM-style repair with a complete delete. The right choice depends on the truck’s symptoms, warranty status, expected ownership period, and whether the engine already needs to be opened. We explain that decision in more detail here—full disclosure, this is our own guide: https://www.bluev8.com/blogs/news/do-you-actually-need-an-afm-disabler   One exception: some 2021 L82/L84 trucks have RPO YK9, meaning cylinder deactivation was already disabled in the factory ECM; on those trucks a plug-in disabler is redundant, although the AFM/DFM hardware remains inside the engine.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...