PapaFix Posted June 29, 2020 Author Posted June 29, 2020 Yes I can clear the code. But it just comes back.
tlaw91 Posted June 29, 2020 Posted June 29, 2020 How fast? Do you have to drive it or is it immediate Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
tlaw91 Posted June 29, 2020 Posted June 29, 2020 In this case GM wants you to diagnose it like it is a C0472 or C0473 dtc which implies it is electrical. Either you have an open or a short, or you need to replace the sensor. It’s either wiring or the sensor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
PapaFix Posted June 29, 2020 Author Posted June 29, 2020 1 minute ago, tlaw91 said: In this case GM wants you to diagnose it like it is a C0472 or C0473 dtc which implies it is electrical. Either you have an open or a short, or you need to replace the sensor. It’s either wiring or the sensor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Well that sounds like fun. So far from what I've found there's a way to test the sensor with a ohmmeter. I can prolly do that with an assistant. But as far as just checking other wires all I can do is look for pinching, chaffing, bent pins on the SAS itself, or the wires in the plug.
tlaw91 Posted June 29, 2020 Posted June 29, 2020 You do NOT ohm the sensor. You check the circuit from the bcm to the sensor using a scan tool, a fused jumper wire and a DMM.W/o a scan tool that can read the parameter, your only shot is to check for the 5v ref circuit from the bcm and to measure resistance across the harness from the BCM to that connector. If these tests pass then you need a sensor. There is no parameter for running your dmm across the sensor.
PapaFix Posted June 30, 2020 Author Posted June 30, 2020 Well I guess you can't believe everything you read. I got this from GM Parts Center: Getting a Diagnosis in 5 Easy Steps All you need is an ohmmeter and 5 minutes of your time. Go underneath the dash and locate the steering column.Next to the column is a wiring connector wrapped in foam tape. Grab a nonmetallic tool and scrape off enough foam tape so that you can access the connector.Use a small flathead screwdriver or pick to remove a plastic retaining pin from the connector. Then unplug the connector. Connect an ohmmeter to the orange and blue leads of the sensor. (NOTE: Wire color may be different on your vehicle, so be sure to check your shop manual or 'google' it. Just know that no harm will be done if you measure the wrong leads.)Have a friend turn the wheel back and forth. Watch the ohmmeter - if the value exceeds 12,000 ohms, or shows an open circuit, then it’s time to replace the sensor. If the value stays under 12,000 ohms, then the sensor passed the test.
tlaw91 Posted June 30, 2020 Posted June 30, 2020 That is not a GM approved diagnostic method. Probably just fine, however it does not tell you to do this in the service manual. Interesting [emoji848] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
PapaFix Posted June 30, 2020 Author Posted June 30, 2020 Yeah, I'm more inclined to just replace the SAS at this point. Whether it tests good or bad, everything I've read says that year is not resettable. I know I cheaped out when I replaced the 1st time too so that could entirely be the problem. It'll just have to wait a bit until the budget allows it. I want my truck back! The wife's hauling all the grandkids around in my Ram.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now