Jump to content

On Board Air system mounting

voyager1500

Recommended Posts

voyager1500 Enthusiast

voyager1500

Posted
Posted

Hello.  Wondering if anyone has installed one of these systems on the silverado and if so where did they mount the tank.  The compressor is small enough , the the tank that came with the Viar kit 2.5 gallon is just too long to fit anywhere safely.  It does almost fit under the passenger door, but it will hang down too low for my liking.  The only option i see is to purchase two 1 gallon tanks that I can stick up under the bed sides out of the way, but I will reduce the capacity and have more plumbing floating around under there.  Just wondering if any one has done it and how they did it.  

 

Thank you 

UnlimitedMatt Enthusiast

UnlimitedMatt

Posted
Posted
13 hours ago, voyager1500 said:

Hello.  Wondering if anyone has installed one of these systems on the silverado and if so where did they mount the tank.  The compressor is small enough , the the tank that came with the Viar kit 2.5 gallon is just too long to fit anywhere safely.  It does almost fit under the passenger door, but it will hang down too low for my liking.  The only option i see is to purchase two 1 gallon tanks that I can stick up under the bed sides out of the way, but I will reduce the capacity and have more plumbing floating around under there.  Just wondering if any one has done it and how they did it.  

 

Thank you 

Sounds like I have the same Viair set up but I too have not installed it on my truck yet.  I'm running into the same issues as you.  I'm hoping someone can shed some light on the best locations for this set up!

  • 2 weeks later...
voyager1500 Enthusiast

voyager1500

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 6/26/2020 at 12:20 PM, lonestardiver said:

Mount a tool box in the bed of the truck and put it in there.

Since it's a standard 6'6" box I was looking to mount somewhere else, dont want to loose the space in bed, between the tank and compressor, it will take up some valuable real estate in there.  I really wanted to do underneath the truck, but not finding a  happy place that the tank will fit.  The only option I have been able to come up with would require purchasing two smaller 1 gallon tanks that I could tuck up under the bed and then just join the two together via an air line.  There is not enough space above the spare tire due to the module and wiring that is jammed under there unless the tank was smaller.  at that point might as well not bother stuffing one 1 gallon tank up there since those will fit other spots easier.  

 

Another idea I was thinking which is not ideal, but what about mounting all the components into a box, like a plano sportsmans trunk or the like, and just mount up on roof rack, will look un clean, but it will essentially just be a box on the rack, but then I can run wire to battery or some sort of quick connect when I need to use it ?  This might also make it so that I can take in other vehicles when needed, so might actually be a workable idea ?  

 

 

 

voyager1500 Enthusiast

voyager1500

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So here is a mock up of the plano box idea.  it just makes it length wise.  Will need to make a platform to attach everything too and mounts for the gauge and connectors.  Need 90 degree elbows for the ends of the tank for the air lines and regulator.  Then create a wire harness or plug system so that I can connect either directly to battery, or via a 12v power port in bed or under hood, or both.  I dont know ?  what do you think ?  this would make it portable from vehicle to vehicle rather than permanently mounted on one.  

20200708_201429.jpg

davester Senior Enthusiast

davester

Posted
Posted

I would say it is highly unlikely, once you have it installed somewhere under the truck, you will want to remove it and install it on another truck more than once.  You'll do it, and find it's a huge hassle, and then you'll leave it on one truck, and perhaps remove it again when it's no longer needed on that truck...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      You got that Hengst D110??
    • contrabombarde
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By contrabombarde · Posted

      Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • parthery
      GM Hard Folding Tonneau by REV review

      By parthery · Posted

      Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...