Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm a pretty tall guy 6'6"+, and want to purchase a 2020 Denali 2500. It cannot have a sun roof due to the loss of headroom.

 

Thats a tough configuration to find! And definitely not available locally or within my dealer's trade networks.

 

I reached out to some dealers out of state, who can arrange shipping a vehicle with my configuration. I would purchase through them, and ship through uShip or similar. 

 

Is this a terrible idea? Any tips for doing this kind of transaction? It's a new vehicle with 50 miles on it, from a 4.1 star dealer (500+ vehicles in inventory). The car will travel from Colorado to California. I'm hesitant to buy sight unseen, even with a new vehicle.

Posted

Make sure it has California emissions.

I have a Mexican-registered Cheyenne (Mexicans call Silverado that) and it does have California emissions on it, has the sticker under the hood. That was for the 5.3 engine.

You should make sure it has that.. otherwise, you CANNOT register it as a new vehicle here in California.

Posted

I would not ship, I would fly in and drive home. That way you can drive before you buy and as mentioned make sure it's a US truck with the correct emissions for where you live. A plane ticket these days is probably cheaper than shipping although you would still have to pay for the fuel to dive it home.

 

Jay

  • Like 3
Posted

I rented a car and drove to Michigan (5hrs) to pickup my truck I ordered


Ryan B.

Posted

Oops, it’s actually Kansas (been talking to a lot of dealers). So not quite as close. 

on the topic of emissions, it *looks* like this is CA compliant, but I’m not totally sure how to interpret it.

 

860976F2-B225-4868-9C39-379A1DE325EF.thumb.jpeg.d8099dbf04d03e47b0c2d93b4872d37a.jpeg

 

 

Posted

Correct me if I am mistaken, but wouldn't a 2500 (9200 GVW or more) be exempt from any emissions? Here in upstate NY they are exempt. They just get a safety check (lights, brakes ect.) Is California testing a 2500 for emissions?

Posted
1 hour ago, flattop said:

Correct me if I am mistaken, but wouldn't a 2500 (9200 GVW or more) be exempt from any emissions? Here in upstate NY they are exempt. They just get a safety check (lights, brakes ect.) Is California testing a 2500 for emissions?

https://dieselnet.com/standards/us/ld_ca.php#levii

 

This link lays out the cryptic details and ratings if you're interested :)

In summary, this truck/year has to qualify under the "Lev III" standards. Which looks California specific (some other states follow the same standards). According to the table, 14,000 lbs. and under needs to show they pass emissions standards. 

 

The emissions badge on this sticker shows ULEV270, which is under the Lev III standard.

 

 

Posted
10 hours ago, paticus said:

https://dieselnet.com/standards/us/ld_ca.php#levii

 

This link lays out the cryptic details and ratings if you're interested :)

In summary, this truck/year has to qualify under the "Lev III" standards. Which looks California specific (some other states follow the same standards). According to the table, 14,000 lbs. and under needs to show they pass emissions standards. 

 

The emissions badge on this sticker shows ULEV270, which is under the Lev III standard.

 

 

Good to know! Thanks

Posted
17 hours ago, flattop said:

Correct me if I am mistaken, but wouldn't a 2500 (9200 GVW or more) be exempt from any emissions? Here in upstate NY they are exempt. They just get a safety check (lights, brakes ect.) Is California testing a 2500 for emissions?

Nope.  When I used to live in CA (2 years ago) most counties have smog testing requirements, but there are a few areas that do not until you sell it.

Posted

I would not hesitate to buy out of state, many many people do.....could maybe pay a third party to inspect the truck or have it in paperwork upon receipt and inspected by buyer or fly out and pick it up.....

 

they delivered mine to my house from 100 or so miles away but basically I bought it sight unseen....never went to dealership at all and it was 10pm, lol which is a big no no for buying vehicles.....everything was fine

 

I wouldn't worry too much on new truck unless delivery dude messes it up......

Posted
18 minutes ago, Steve-2019 said:

Nope.  When I used to live in CA (2 years ago) most counties have smog testing requirements, but there are a few areas that do not until you sell it.

Wow, They really stick it to you in California! A 3/4  or 1 ton work truck that is by design not fuel efficient or environmentally friendly, gets smog tested like some commuter car? I guess this is one time I can say New York is doing the right thing not sticking it to Farmers, construction workers, Campers ect. that drive a large truck.

Posted

Yes, sticker's good. It's California-complaint. That's the BIGGEST mistake a California buyer can make. Before, it was just a $300 smog impact fee then the feds said it was unconstitutional so California said.. fine, no more $300 smog impact fees, it cannot be registered, period.

Mexican-built GMC Sierras and Chevrolet Cheyennes (Silverados) are all California-compliant. Dealerships from out of the state expect you to know that, they are not liable for California laws.

  • 1 year later...
Posted (edited)

In general, first it is necessary to be 100% sure that you just want to install this roof by any means necessary.
Having decided on this step, we cut a hole in the roof of the car, frame this ""new"" roof from above, get inside the car and look on the spot what and where it is necessary to weld, that supports of this roof could be attached.
Having coped with it, and making sure that the roof can rise and fall, begin to puzzle over the locks which fix the roof in the lowered position (and which, as I understand, are not available).
Bring better using guardianautotransport.
Roof still is not light, for this reason, something should obviously help lift it.
In the raised position it should be something to fix, probably there should be some racks.
And finally a tarpaulin or something else should be on the walls.

Edited by AmeliaNorth
grammar mistake
Posted (edited)

so i just got done registering my 2021 GMC elevation today in california and purchased in Arizona

 

i had to get smog cert, weight cert, vin verification, pay difference in tax between arizona and here....i could have wrote down whatever as they didnt even check....even though GM weighs specific vehicles and its on the sticker DMV didnt care.....had i known all this prior it would have made it easier/faster but i didnt.....but other than that it was pretty painless, on document it said i had a year to register it if purchased out of state.....i bought it feb 15th and no late or penalties, i did get a 3 month tag from dealer....also my registration starts from today not from febuary so i got few extra months i guess.......i went to san clemente DMV cuz its empty usually.....

 

but yeah as long as truck is california compliant you shouldnt have any problems......maybe get a smog and weight cert b4 you go so you wont have to leave and go back....i also have to smog every 2 years they said....

 

my truck was built in Ft Wayne, IN

Edited by Dunn

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 614 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...