Jump to content

Battery replacement

Rossum Possum
 Share

Recommended Posts

AE1M Enthusiast

AE1M

Posted
Posted

Yes I saw that when I ordered mine for pickup.  I guess now that I successfully installed it I am a "professional".    They should just post the link to the You Tube video instead of scaring people. 

 

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

BigBlue2014
BigBlue2014

I installed the H7 which I purchased from Advanced Auto Parts. The installation took me about a half hour from start to finish.

Rossum Possum
Rossum Possum

For those DIYers...I know join the club of those who have replaced the old flooded cell battery.  I also believe the engineers at GM to be sadistic.  I’ve never had to remove so much crap just to be a

Rossum Possum
Rossum Possum

In Florida, because of the intense heat, I’ll usually get right around 2 years, and when the battery decides to go, there is usually no warning.  You’ll just walk outside to leave, and nothing.

Posted Images

rav3 Senior Enthusiast

rav3

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Dick Lichon said:

There is a design issue on these vehicles with the amount of stress the negative battery cable places on the post. I got 4 years out of the original and replaced with a AGM just over 1 year ago. Again same negative battery post failure. The bending moment on the post induced by the negative cable fatigue cracks the post inside the battery. The plastic housing holds everything together and you will pull your hair out when temps and moisture cause the air gap in the cracked post to create resistance build up losing voltage and amp draw. Both times mine exhibited starting issues given the amount of amps you need to turn the motor over. Easy way to tell if your post has failed internally is to put a 10mm socket and wrench on the nut of the negative cable and tighten the nut only placing a small amount of torque on the post while someone is trying to start the engine. The post will generally fail on the right side and propagate toward the driver side given the bending moment of the unsupported cable length. There is a hole in the trough above the cable that I used to use a zip tie to support the cable and reduce the stress on the post. You guys may want to do that first chance you get. Hope this helps those experiencing electrical issues that tend to come and go until it finally cracks far enough to put you dead in the water. Regards!

Can you post a picture of the cable & zip tie?

BSherrod Enthusiast

BSherrod

Posted
Posted
23 minutes ago, 15 Z71 said:

I bought my battery at Advanced and they told me it comes up on their computer that they are not allowed to replace them. Guy told me it requires "professional" to install it on these trucks. Lol

Yep, actually got them to reimburse me for the part behind that.  I think it’s a certain order you have to take the distribution block off or something. 

rav3 Senior Enthusiast

rav3

Posted
Posted
2 minutes ago, Dick Lichon said:

 

20201006_181924.jpg

Thanks. May try that although I haven't had the issue you mentioned that I'm aware of. Looks like you have some extra grounds.

Dick Lichon Enthusiast

Dick Lichon

Posted
Posted
8 minutes ago, rav3 said:

Thanks. May try that although I haven't had the issue you mentioned that I'm aware of. Looks like you have some extra grounds.

I was running a dual battery setup until I installed my supercharger. Took the battery out to install the low temp coolant tank and pump which mounts in the 2nd battery tray. This battery was my spare given the other battery had the failed post. I had a similar side post failure on one of my batteries many years ago. It took forever to root cause the issue. The added cabling doesn't stress the post. It is the main ground in this example. It could be that the factory cable is on the short side to start with. I'm a Mechanical Engineer that worked in auto for many years, I cuss those engineers all the time, ha. Just wanted to point out a potential failure mode for all of you and one that I've seen twice now. I'm going to further support the cable a few more inches before it heads through the amp meter.

AE1M Enthusiast

AE1M

Posted
Posted

I do not have those extra wires on my  truck, just the stock ground wire.  I cannot identify how the ground wire would move separately from the battery.  What do you have the ground wire tied to with the Zip tie besides your extra wires that must be grounding some accessory.  Would zip tying it to the black enclosed bundle behind where you have it now insure the ground wire stays in place with respect to the battery?

Dick Lichon Enthusiast

Dick Lichon

Posted
Posted (edited)
38 minutes ago, AE1M said:

I do not have those extra wires on my  truck, just the stock ground wire.  I cannot identify how the ground wire would move separately from the battery.  What do you have the ground wire tied to with the Zip tie besides your extra wires that must be grounding some accessory.  Would zip tying it to the black enclosed bundle behind where you have it now insure the ground wire stays in place with respect to the battery?

It's mostly an inertial mass problem. The amount of unsupported cable is quite long before the cable is constrained. When your vehicle sees accelerations (aka vibrations through normal driving) it places small cyclic bending moments on the post. These bending moments are primarily what would cause the post to fail over time. Basically, high cycle, low load material fatigue failure. I've studied failure mechanics and it is surprising how small loads can be, but if the number of loading events is very high it will induce material failure (aka plastic deformation of the base material). Classic high cycle failure mechanics at play here. Not all will see this issue given there are many variables at play. Material of the post, it's strength, the actual average loading on the cable post, etc.

Edited by Dick Lichon
Dick Lichon Enthusiast

Dick Lichon

Posted
Posted
40 minutes ago, AE1M said:

I do not have those extra wires on my  truck, just the stock ground wire.  I cannot identify how the ground wire would move separately from the battery.  What do you have the ground wire tied to with the Zip tie besides your extra wires that must be grounding some accessory.  Would zip tying it to the black enclosed bundle behind where you have it now insure the ground wire stays in place with respect to the battery?

There is a hole in the metal trough where that zip tie is located. I looped it through the hole to take some stress off the post from the factory ground wire.

Dick Lichon Enthusiast

Dick Lichon

Posted
Posted (edited)

The good news is I got a brand new replacement from my auto parts store with another 3yr warranty and a new starter, cause I discounted the failure mode before assuming it was my starter going. I told myself there was no way it was my one year old battery. But, as stated, it was.  I have 105k on the truck. Now I shouldn't have to worry about the starter for the remainder of the life of this truck, hopefully!!

Edited by Dick Lichon
Dick Lichon Enthusiast

Dick Lichon

Posted
Posted
28 minutes ago, Dick Lichon said:

There is a hole in the metal trough where that zip tie is located. I looped it through the hole to take some stress off the post from the factory ground wire.

Also thinking about placing a wedge right at the post against the battery housing. This will achieve similar results to lowering the loading at the post.

  • 1 month later...
teamaed Enthusiast

teamaed

Posted
Posted

man I just had to replace my battery on mine.  In AZ I get right around 2yrs typically, just got that Die Hard platinum.  

 

That was the biggest pain in the ass battery to get out, I thought my CTS V was a pain.  Had to take so much ****** off and having the truck lifted doesn't help.  I almost took the reservoir off, finally figured out how to get that ****** outta there.   

Jimmah Enthusiast

Jimmah

Posted
Posted

Quick question, I'm curious, can our trucks not be boosted from another vehicle or use a lithium jump starter if the battery dies?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 81mmcat
      Higher oil pressure after DFM shut off

      By 81mmcat · Posted

      Can anyone explain why the oil pressure runs higher after the DFM is shut off?  just installed the Pulsar Lt.
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      Thanks!  I figured as such; GM and other manufacturers have used standard parts and harnesses across trim levels and such for decades.  I pulled the blank accessory cover off of my commuter van (a 2016 or so Chevy 15-passenger) years ago and found the plug for a USB outlet.  It wasn't connected to anything, though (I tried swapping in an outlet from another van).  I was a GM Tech years ago (late-90s) and was pretty familiar with my 2006.  I might be wrong, but I view newer vehicles (pretty much anything made in the past 20 years) as being a lot more plug and play.  Meaning, more unused wires and plugs unless you have the Mack Daddy of vehicles.    
    • Coastie05
      It's Been a Long Time...

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      Welcome back!
    • davester
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By davester · Posted

      not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...