Jump to content

Tires - load range, model availability, ride quality

shock99

By shock99
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

shock99 New Member

shock99

Posted
Posted

Hi folks,

 

Digging into tires on a new-to-me 2016 1500. I haven’t actually even seen it in person yet (another story).

 

It has 17 inch steelies on it now—got to go. It seems that 18 inch alloys are the smallest OEM replacements out there so that’s what I’ll prob get. I’m having trouble choosing a tire. I’ve previously had BFG KO and they were perfect for me. When I look at the 18 inch options for KO2 that are the correct diameter (ok choice) or slightly larger diameter (what I want), they only come in a load range E. I feel like that’s overkill and will result in a terribly bouncy ride.

 

If I go from a 265 down to 255 width, there is a load D available. Would that be crazy to go more narrow?

 

Me, in general, is one to stay fairly close to stock. I basically would like the truck to look like something GMC should have offered.

 

General use for this is as a grocery-getter/hardware store runs. But, I would like some off-road capability as I do go out to some trails (which around here is small-ish rocks and lots’o mud/ruts, no rock climbing).

 

I’m in favor of an eventual leveling or adjustable front stocks but I gotta keep it garage-able.

 

Any advice?

Load E KO2?

More narrow load D KO2?

Another tire that performs comparably that might come in size/load rating I want?

 

TIA

CamGTP Senior Enthusiast

CamGTP

Posted
Posted

I'd pick a different tire to be honest. Load range E's are way overkill on a single cab short bed truck.

 

Find something from Falken or even Nitto tires for a non load range E tire.

lovelessjl Enthusiast

lovelessjl

Posted
Posted

As far as ride quality, just run the tires at 32-35 psi cold, and you'll never be able to tell the difference.

Having something as critical as a tire being stronger than it needs to be is, in my humble opinion, a good thing.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
MichiganCCab Enthusiast

MichiganCCab

Posted
Posted

My 16 crew cab had factory 17" alloys with LT265-70-17 load range C's. BFG makes a LT265-70-17 in load range C and a LT285-70-17 in load range C.

  • Like 2
swathdiver Senior Enthusiast

swathdiver

Posted
Posted

Tires for seventeen inch wheels are much less expensive than for 18s.  Even tires for 20s cost less.  If you had 20s, the KO2 comes in a D, LT275-55-20. 

 

Run LT265-70-17s KO2 Cs on my truck.  In 3 years, 3 of the 4 have been punctured and none caused the tire to run flat, all were slow leaks despite the large size of the nails or screws.  

shock99 New Member

shock99

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I definitely like the idea of 17” alloys. I’ll keep looking. I haven’t run across any yet. 

  • Like 1
swathdiver Senior Enthusiast

swathdiver

Posted
Posted
13 hours ago, shock99 said:

I definitely like the idea of 17” alloys. I’ll keep looking. I haven’t run across any yet. 

Chevrolet Tahoe 5299MS OEM Wheel | 9596050 | OEM Original ...17" 2007 08 Chevrolet Silverado Avalanche Tahoe Wheel Rim ...07-10 Chevy Tahoe Factory 17" Wheels OEM Rims 5295 ...17" CHEVY SILVERADO SUBURBAN TAHOE OEM ALLOY WHEEL RIM ...

 

Some of what's around, all 17s if my memory serves.

  • Thanks 1
shock99 New Member

shock99

Posted
  • Author
Posted
9 hours ago, swathdiver said:

Chevrolet Tahoe 5299MS OEM Wheel | 9596050 | OEM Original ...17" 2007 08 Chevrolet Silverado Avalanche Tahoe Wheel Rim ...07-10 Chevy Tahoe Factory 17" Wheels OEM Rims 5295 ...17" CHEVY SILVERADO SUBURBAN TAHOE OEM ALLOY WHEEL RIM ...

 

Some of what's around, all 17s if my memory serves.

Def like that last example. 

KARNUT Senior Enthusiast

KARNUT

Posted
Posted

I always bought the highest ply load range KOs offered. I went with direct replacements. I didn’t inflate to maximum tire pressure. I had long life with a smooth quiet ride. I will admit I never tried anything else. Didn’t need to.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Donstar Senior Enthusiast

Donstar

Posted
Posted

Broaden your 17" search to GMC wheels. I have stock wheels similar to the "last example" except with 6 spokes.   Tire threads are popular (plentiful) on this forum and I always like to put a plug in for Costco Michelins.  This has been my preferred combination for over twenty years.  I've never turned away from an unplowed road and I've never found myself stuck or at the roadside with a flat.  I've had their M/S tires in P and LT ratings and found no advantage to the heavier tire.  The extra unnecessary unsprung weight of a LT will be noticed at the pump.  Of course this is not much of an issue when fuel is cheap, but I enjoy $5 + us gal. prices!  

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined

  • Who's Online   4 Members, 1 Anonymous, 652 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • Grumpy Bear
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...