Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
P0158 reflects what you see in the scanner. It's a high voltage code and the sensor is stuck around .900mv.
Yep

Sensor 1's are fine
Sensor 2 (after cat) is high, should be in .5-.7 range. High indicates low oxygen. This can be due to o2 sensor clogged, or the cat is on its way out. Cat converts NO2 and NO to N and O2.
Posted

I think i eliminated the o2 sensor being bad. Replaced all 3 of them in last year. Then swapped them from side to side and the cel code did not change. How do i test the cat? Is there a way to clean it?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

P0420 or P0430 are cat codes, the P0158 is strictly a circuit, wiring related code.

Posted

Downstream Cat codes are set for signal low, signal high, low efficiency.

 

Low signal is usually a broken harness wire that the ecu sees as 0v. If it's at .01-.2 then the wire is either corroded (high resistance), or the cat has lost its ability to cover CO (CO + O2 = CO2+)

 

Efficiency failing code is set when the cat is unavailable to convert anything, and is passing the fluctuating o2 exhaust thru the cat. The downstream sensor starts looking like the upstream sensor

 

When failed high, it will show either

a) a short in the wire thus sending .5v back without any fluctuation or

B) send a consistent result above .7 - an indication of low O2. O2 is produced on N conversion activities (and consumed on the CO conversion).

 

 

Posted

did some more testing with multi meter and 12 volt test light.    now since did testing with the plug,  p2a04 code comes up now.  O2 Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Bank 2 Sensor 2.

 

could it be the o2 sensor plug is bad?  

Posted (edited)

tested fuel pressure, its at 61psi.  

 

going to test temperature of catalytic converter,  what should that be? 

 

so if catalytic converter is bad  is it  good to go with cheap one or not?   found online can get stainless steel one for $250.   

 

 

Edited by DareDog
Posted
2005 1500 5.3L 160k. Gotten this code. The O2 sensors are new in last 2 years. New Acdelco parts put on. Could i have a defective part? How to tell if sensor is actually bad? Or something else? Coolant temp sensor? Truck runs normally and no decrease in fuel economy.
 
 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If you futzed with the wire and the code changed, then yes, replace the pigtail. Once pigtail is replaced, take a test drive and see if a code returns. Then swap o2 sensors. If the code stays, then cat is gone.
Posted
tested fuel pressure, its at 61psi.  
 
going to test temperature of catalytic converter,  what should that be? 
 
so if catalytic converter is bad  is it  good to go with cheap one or not?   found online can get stainless steel one for $250.   
 
 
Follow my recommendation on the pigtail.

As for $250 cat, you'll probably only get a few years out of it. If you want a long term solution, then get a CARB compliant version, it will have more precious metal in it.
Posted

took truck to mechanic.  they put scan tool on it.  Found no issues in wiring, PCM or converter.  they say its the 02 sensor that is bad.  I just put new one on last week and still get the code.    there going to put new o2 sensor on it and see.

Posted

Got truck back today. Have extender on that o2 sensor. Bought what i thought was a stainless o2 sensor extender. But Its not meant for the o2. Restricting the air flow. So that is what caused this. Tested the o2 sensor data on my scan tool. They all read .45 volts. Bank 2 volts moves up down now.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Well CEL back on. 420 and 430. Converter is bad. Looking at replacing it. What is good one? I see flowmaster for $579 on jeggs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I'm suborn like that Ed. There's a plaque in my doctor office that says, "Don't quit, take a break." Works for allot of things.    Reality is, the wife loves her SUV and even given it's issues, she'd buy another if she found one with low enough miles. Then again she has me to maintain it.    Most of what ails this thing is GM shooting themselves in the foot and by extension the buyer. Besides a ridiculous breather system the cat warm up strategy, IMHO, is the dumbest thing I've ever seen an OEM do to a vehicle they warranty. On cold start it r-e-t-a-r-d-s the ignition to like -17* ATDC and dump fuel like kicking over a pail to force combustion in the CAT's for rapid warm up. This literally hoses the oil off cylinder walls and creates enough varnish precursors to stick rings in even well maintained engines. THEN if that wasn't bad enough they recommend using a wanting fluid specification at equally stupid interval.    Common to all GDI motors I'm aware of is this silly practice of driving the HPFP off the cam giving a leaking pump direct and unchecked access to the crankcase. And sir, eventually the ALL leak. Your job is to "catch it if you can". Yes, these are the same people that removed dipsticks from engines and transmissions in belief Joe Average wasn't capable of checking, reading and maintain his own vehicles fluids. Sadly  and in large they were correct. Most people these days can't tell a sparkplug from a fire plug.  Great ideas one and all.    Every move and every error calculated to defend themselves from the law and their own customers.       
    • Most online suppliers and Amazon. All have noted "not for use with Bose speakers".
    • Very interesting thread. Definitely didn’t expect to see this kind of mileage out of that engine. 
    • Just did an injector/HPFP replacement on Pepper at 192,400 miles; close enough to 200K, RIGHT? (If 200K is considered life end and to me it isn't). But hey, to each his own.    Have never run a catch can on this vehicle. Back side of every valve looked like a new valve spray painted semigloss black. Port walls looked 'neat' (all a normal result of passive EGR via VVT) Zero build up even in AFM cylinders. Just color. It uses no measurable oil and never has.    At 155,000 I put her on E-85 and a borescope of the cylinders at plug change showed very clean pistons and valve faces. The replaced injector tips looked new. (It was the pump piston seal that was leaking). Oh well, have six good backups.    Still gets 28 mpg on gas (highway average) and over 20 (highway) on alky. UOA's look good and runs as good now as it did when I bought it. Better in fact.    What improvement would a Catch Can provide this motor?     And given all this I expect that IF I installed one I'd see some water/gas/oil vapor accumulation. Byproducts of normal combustion.   Having said that, IF my motor used an appreciable amount of oil I'd consider it a useful 'crutch' until I had the situation corrected OR if bore polished, until I junked it or rebuilt it to stave off repeated plug fouling.    I'm not telling you what I THINK. But what its DONE.          
    • Love the look. I'm a SCSB lover myself.    Two items. 1.) A spacer changes scrub radius but this also changes when we use wheels of different offsets. A little isn't a big deal. 2.) Steel wheels, alloy wheels all have different thickness. Same effect on the stud and lug nut as a spacer. When hub centric the wheel isn't supported by the stud. It's supported by the hub. The stud just keeps it all together.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...