Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey, Just received my 2020 2500 sierra 4x4 turbo crew cab 3 days ago. As I said , this is my first diesel and I have some questions that my seem elementary or common sense to you. Where should the oil pressure read? After 1st start in the am, warmed up she reads up to 60lbs pressure. After that she varies from 30 to 65. Is this normal? And before I start her should I turn key to auxillery to let glow plugs warm awhile before turning ignition? My buddy knows more than me about diesels, but I am afraid his advise may be outdated. Any help would be welcomed.400 miles today only 100 more and she is broke in. Cant wait to go over 60 . Anything else you think a rookie should know?

Posted

I had 120 PSI on my LP5 when I started it at 40 degrees, then when warm, it is between 30-65 ish so I'd say you are good.  Just make sure you run a good premium oil filter.  Change the tranny fluid every 25,000-35,000 miles along with spin on filter... change front and rear diff fluid every 30,000-60,000 miles, along with transfer case fluid.  I would suggest Amsoil gear lube, I believe it to be superior to other brands out there.  Change the fuel filter once a year and use a good quality fuel filter.  AC/Delco is good, I've never had any issues with WIX/NAPA fuel filters either, but some from previous generations claim they don't seal well, again I've never had any issues.  Replace air filter once a year.  Replace cabin air filter (if equipped) once a year.  Coolant every 75,000 miles.  (they say it's good for 100,000 miles or more but I believe in preventative maintenance) 

Posted

Mine doesn't have a key, so it spins the starter when the computer thinks it's OK after you push the button.  I think even with the key, it's all up to the computer anyway.    

Posted
22 hours ago, XY74 said:

Mine doesn't have a key, so it spins the starter when the computer thinks it's OK after you push the button.  I think even with the key, it's all up to the computer anyway.    

Yes.

'Bump' the key and the computer takes over. 

 

Been that way for a bunch of years.

Posted

So I bought some cheap faux leather seat covers, for my crew cab 2020 2500 sierra 4x4. they all fit fine until the back 60/40 bench, anyway I cant figure out if they some how fold or detatch from the back wall of the cab so I can fit these covers on. Its driving me crazy because there is all these loops for baby seats and such and I dont want to mess up and deploy an airbag or something? And I cant find anything about it in manuals about it. Any Ideas would be appreciated. Oh my truck doesnt have a button start just a key.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,860
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    HWN808
    Newest Member
    HWN808
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 876 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • https://www.gm-trucks.com/why-gm-chose-0w-30-gen-6-v8-oil/   The swing back to reality continues…
    • Diesel $5.42 at the truck stop on the hi-way
    • I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...