Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey guys, looking to drop the trans pan on my 2000 k3500. It's got the 4l80e.

 

Some videos show removing the shift bracket, it sure doesn't look like I need to. I will have to unbolt the trans from the cross-member and jack it up to get the rear few trans pan bolts it appears. I bought a new trans bushing/mount anyway. The bushing looks good, but I've slowly been reconditioning this truck over the past year. I figure since I'm in there, do what  needs to be done.

 

My pan bolts look to be a bit rusty, I bought a new bolt pan kit. I have the filter, and 8 qts of fluid. I'd like to get this done before it gets too cold and I start plowing.

 

Can anyone confirm if I need to remove the shift linkage? That looks like it will be not enjoyable.

Posted

It's not terrible to do, but more annoying, at least in my experience.  If you can get the bolts out of the cover, that's the important thing, if you can do that without taking off the bracket...  On my '04, I think I managed to get them out without taking off the bracket using 1/4" socket/ratchet/extension (with a 10mm socket).

  • Like 1
Posted

I figured as much. And planned to do that.

 

Appreciate the info. Gotta get after this!

 

Just did the starter last week. Will just need injectors to fix the hot start issue and I think I'm finally done with this truck's work. Been a long 1st year of ownership. Will be way more enjoyable to plow this year too. Not having to baby it with a bad cv (didn't know that was bad on top of the bearing), and bad wheel bearing.

 

I've reconditioned this thing back to working order!

Posted

Got er done. New mount/bushing in. Makes room to take pan off without jacking transmission.

It was for sure time to change it. Cleaned pan and magnet. New gasket.

Pan bolts torque to 12 ft lbs. checked them all twice.d78085d93d4770e749a970f505d90744.jpg


A job well done!


Drain pan bolt would NOT break free. I even tried some heat.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Nice job!

 

My 2002 transmission drain bolt wouldn't come out either by using a 6 point socket.  It started to round off.  I got a bolt out kit from Sears and it worked like a charm. 

  • Like 1
Posted

I have a bolt out kit but didn’t have the right size.

I’ll have to take a pic of the energy suspension tans mount. Gave a lot more room to get pan bolts out without having to jack trans.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
7 minutes ago, ChevroletTough said:

I have a bolt out kit but didn’t have the right size.

I’ll have to take a pic of the energy suspension tans mount. Gave a lot more room to get pan bolts out without having to jack trans.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wow, that means the original mount was completely shot to have lowered the trans that much.  Might want to check your u joints.  :)

Posted (edited)

Not lowered. It’s just thinner and designed different so there’s space.

P.S. all amsoil fluids in this truck, front diff, trans, rear diff, t case.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by ChevroletTough
  • Like 1
Posted

Pulled the enclosed with both wheelers for about 3 hours. Shifted flawless. So far no leakage. [emoji1360][emoji1360][emoji1360][emoji1360]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,782
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ShowMeShooter1332
    Newest Member
    ShowMeShooter1332
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 2,934 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I was around and remember that era very well, so I'm calling b/s on that statement. If they were that bad no police department or taxi company would've bought a single one ... but they were used in both services (and fire) for DECADES. They were bulletproof and proven. Even the early 21st century ones weren't too bad! The early models were legendary.   Mine is proof, but people like atlas are blinded by agenda and refuse to believe facts right before their very eyes.   Even decades after they were built, a new generation started driving them, posting all their builds and shenanigans on Grandmarq.net and Crownvic.net. The failures would show up then, since they all were deep past 100k-150k miles by that point, and younger drivers tend to be a little aggressive, especially with vehicles than can lay a one-tire fire for as long as you hold your foot in it. They've more than proven themselves over the decades.   The only thing that'll really take them out is road salt. The bodies and sheet metal were garbage. A victim of the cheapout FoMoCo and GM have been partaking in before then, and since.   Today it's the stuff that counts - the undercarriage that rots away first!    GMs Caprice was no slouch either. Reliable as a stone ax - the opposite of what they build now.    
    • Let me know how your vehicles do in 10 years. You don't know ******, kid. 😂    There's a reason that Panther platform was used as police, fire, and taxi service for DECADES ... long before you were born, apparently.
    • If your connector also has a big lever to get the connector on and off, you don't want to force the lever either way, as it becomes a bigger problem if you bust the lever or the mechanism it works.
    • It's just useful to disconnect the battery to prevent odd shorting out when unplugging/plugging stuff together.  I also  touch the two cable ends together (after disonnecting) to drain the small amount of stored battery energy in various modules.   I believe the main system where you need to be more concerned with, so you need to do the above and then wait some time, iss when you are working on the air bag system, to prevent inadvertent firing of the air bags.   The in-cab switches are just that, plain switches, it's generally not a problem to swap them in/out.  For my '12, I'll get an error message on the dash if I power up the truck w them unplugged, but that's it (power up= turn the ignition on).   The ITBC located above the spare tire is a computer that manages the trailer brake system.  That is probably more important to have the battery disconnected.  It does have to be programmed to the truck, either before or after it's installed, for it to work.  For my '12, I had a very hard time reinstalling the main connector to it (IDK if yours is the same or not), it turned out the silicon seal was jamming up, preventing it from going on all the way.  I finally got it fully installed by lubing the seal with a bit of dielectric grease, then it slid on and latched in place easily.
    • JR ! I just got the truck back from the Dealership today . The technician did a cold remote start on the truck this morning and it made the noise . It was determined that it was a starter issue and replaced it under warranty . Of course   it did not make the sound after a new starter was put in because the truck was not cold . We will we see what happens tomorrow morning when I start the truck cold  . Keep tuned !   Oh I found a video on YouTube of a cold start and it did the same thing your truck and mine do , I will see if I can find it and post it up
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...