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Powered subwoofer


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I'm looking at getting one.

Lots of options, I don't have a clue.

There's the GM parts Kicker setup, plug and play, one with 200 watts $527.

They have a 400 watt model for around a grand. That's more than I want to spend.

Kicker also has a universal 150 watt setup for $254 on ebay.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kicker-HS8-8-Hideaway-Powered-150W-Subwoofer-Enclosure-Sub-Box-Hide-Away-New-/401071139574?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

 

They also have a 10" version almost the same dimensions 180 watts $349.

 

https://www.electronicexpress.com/catalog/189157/kicker-46hs10-hideaway-10-subwoofer

 

I think I would need a harness for them though not sure.

Then there are several that are in boxes that are bigger on the crutchfield site.

 

I am leaning towards the kicker hideaway because I'm pretty sure it will fit inside the lockable compartment under the jump seat. It's also a 8" speaker. the stock bose sub is only a 6".

One thing fore sure is I'm not digging how much room the GM kicker setup takes under one side of the back seat.

 

I would like to keep it simple.

 

Anyone have a powered subwoofer and what's your setup?

 

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Just upgraded my complete system. Cost around $900 for everything. I did the install and custom ported box myself. I went all out with big 3 upgrade, high output alternator, top of the line wiring, new dash and door speakers, as well as a sub.
You will need to purchase a break out harness and line out converter (loc), no matter how big u go. Here are some pics of my set-up.3ae913e3d6aff8e5e23f78697ac4157b.jpg38a34af50be98afecfb6640f4494d90f.jpgbdfc9730dd2cee62c5e67dc63067be55.jpg329738010150f8a5d648a5382f5e722e.jpgb126d12b74165ca890e8340a920575f0.jpga2baf2262cddb5a9525a270f89023b07.jpg

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I ended up going with the GM Kicker setup with the extra 200 watt amp for the door speakers.
Then I ordered some new door speakers. Kicker CS series. 6x9 front door , 6 3/4" in the rear doors. I see some guys using the same speakers in the front and rear doors. I think it's a matter of preference. Some say round sounds better. Some say oval is better. Who knows.

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upgrading the audio using the stock headunit is a little tricky on these trucks, the front door speakers are the sub's unless you have a center console, the various warning sounds, blinker, bluetooth, backup sensor sounds all go thru different channels off the amp. the stock amp has a dedicated bass output so you will not get any bass if you say decided to run your bass amp off of the rear speaker output, etc 

i changed all the speakers and added tweeters and subs under the back seat. Only needed to 2 hi/lo adapters and the amps of course. only lost the backup sensor beep for now until I either change the headunit or buy a $350 adapter. sounds so much better! before the dam front door panels would just rattle to hell when I turned it up, putting the bass speaker in the door panels is not a terrible idea but dam gm make it work right!  

for those that have the bose active noise cancellation you can really wake the system up by disconnecting the bose mic's, you will notice a difference! the ANC does work but it also hinders some sound, also if you add a bass speaker with the active noise cancellation active you may get feedback noise if the cancellation system is still active, took me a minute to figure what the issue was on my Denali when I added bass and that's what is was the dam bose mic's. 

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On 12/12/2020 at 8:28 AM, manderson7015 said:

Just upgraded my complete system. Cost around $900 for everything.

I need more pictures of this build!  Looks very good.  

 

Nice to see another reloader as well.  

 

I am thinking of adding a sub, but keeping it much simpler as it is really not high on my list... But your build has my attention.

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I need more pictures of this build!  Looks very good.  
 
Nice to see another reloader as well.  
 
I am thinking of adding a sub, but keeping it much simpler as it is really not high on my list... But your build has my attention.
No doubt let's see it manderson.
I don't have the balls to tear into my truck that deep.
I'm kind of tech challenged so my install should be a shitshow [emoji31].
I'll get as many pics as I can though in case someone is going the same direction I did.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 12/19/2020 at 11:02 AM, doubeleive said:

upgrading the audio using the stock headunit is a little tricky on these trucks, the front door speakers are the sub's unless you have a center console, the various warning sounds, blinker, bluetooth, backup sensor sounds all go thru different channels off the amp. the stock amp has a dedicated bass output so you will not get any bass if you say decided to run your bass amp off of the rear speaker output, etc 

i changed all the speakers and added tweeters and subs under the back seat. Only needed to 2 hi/lo adapters and the amps of course. only lost the backup sensor beep for now until I either change the headunit or buy a $350 adapter. sounds so much better! before the dam front door panels would just rattle to hell when I turned it up, putting the bass speaker in the door panels is not a terrible idea but dam gm make it work right!  

for those that have the bose active noise cancellation you can really wake the system up by disconnecting the bose mic's, you will notice a difference! the ANC does work but it also hinders some sound, also if you add a bass speaker with the active noise cancellation active you may get feedback noise if the cancellation system is still active, took me a minute to figure what the issue was on my Denali when I added bass and that's what is was the dam bose mic's. 

How do you turn off the mics or where are the connections to disconnect them? Thanks!

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1 hour ago, 15 hi miler said:

How do you turn off the mics or where are the connections to disconnect them? Thanks!

The mic's were in the headliner of my denali I would assume they still put them there in that case you can just unplug them, make sure you are not unplugging the ambient temp sensor, if not you can check the gm upfitter guide and cut them by the amp, on my denali the mic wires were right under the cup holder in the center console so I just snipped them, easy to patch back up if ever necessary.

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