Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
51 minutes ago, valric said:

 

 

The connector/Sensor  has this tab that you push up on and it will allow you to pull off...

1000007138 (1).jpg

Yeah, I could not get it to pull off.

1 hour ago, Bush Bandit said:

I didn't think of using those. I may go that route. That paired with transmission hose should hopefully get me through the life of the truck. I'm planning on doing this with everything mounted and not removing the original lines since the only leak is at the crimp 

If you had a really steady hand and a compact cutting tool you could maybe do it. The engine side especially would be hard to get to. 

Posted
31 minutes ago, AJMBLAZER said:

Yeah, I could not get it to pull off.

If you had a really steady hand and a compact cutting tool you could maybe do it. The engine side especially would be hard to get to. 

I turned it a half a turn to get it facing out and then I think I used a pair of pliers or something on it. Definitely wasn't happening for me without getting it turned to where I could see it though.

Posted

replacing the oil cooling lines on my 2019 chevy custom trail boss. seems like the top connection between the line and the cooler itself will not come out due to the fuse box in the way. has anyone else have this issue. would I need to take the fuse box completely out?

Posted (edited)
8 minutes ago, 2019custombossman said:

replacing the oil cooling lines on my 2019 chevy custom trail boss. seems like the top connection between the line and the cooler itself will not come out due to the fuse box in the way. has anyone else have this issue. would I need to take the fuse box completely out?

 

I couldn't figure out any other way. Had to take it loose and move it out of the way. Which is worse because the bolt(s) that hold it go from inside the box out, so you also have to disassemble the box to get to them. It's really not that bad but it was pretty annoying to figure that out.

Edited by relevante
Posted

I swore and pulled after taking the whole fitting out of the radiator.  Not saying it was the best method but it cleared on my truck by about a millimeter after that.

 

When reinstalling I put the fitting on the line, snaked it up in the hole, got the fitting threaded back in and tightened, and then reinstalled the line and the clip.

Posted

The male part that slips into the Radiator  actually swivels, I was able to pry a little an the fuse box and swivel the fitting at the same time and that gave me the room I needed to pull out. This also helps you pull it out from below by moving it around so it doesn't snag on everything and when working the new one  back in from below...It worked for me without removing the fuse box.1000007700.thumb.jpg.443abb21f48779e29a8653b89fdb70fb.jpg1000007701.thumb.jpg.03a4b60e0f42f5f78e518c2654220acd.jpg1000007701.thumb.jpg.03a4b60e0f42f5f78e518c2654220acd.jpg

Posted

I was able to repair mine without removing them. A knockoff Dremel with a flexible shaft and small cutoff wheel did it quickly. 

 

Went with 3/8 transmission hose and fuel injector clamps. Took 45 minutes tops and no issues 

  • Thanks 1
  • 5 weeks later...
Posted
On 3/22/2024 at 3:15 PM, Bush Bandit said:

I was able to repair mine without removing them. A knockoff Dremel with a flexible shaft and small cutoff wheel did it quickly. 

 

Went with 3/8 transmission hose and fuel injector clamps. Took 45 minutes tops and no issues 

I saw references to 3/8” and also 1/2” injector hose. You used 3/8”?  I have a 2016 5.3l. 
 

Similarly, I see reference to -6 and -8 AN fittings. Just trying to get a sense before I start cutting into line this week. 
 

I also plan to leave the hard lines on the truck and use the flexible dremel and cutoff wheel. 

Posted
On 4/21/2024 at 8:11 PM, bmh95 said:

I saw references to 3/8” and also 1/2” injector hose. You used 3/8”?  I have a 2016 5.3l. 
 

Similarly, I see reference to -6 and -8 AN fittings. Just trying to get a sense before I start cutting into line this week. 
 

I also plan to leave the hard lines on the truck and use the flexible dremel and cutoff wheel. 

 

I used 3/8 transmission line (holds up better than fuel line)

  • 10 months later...
Posted

any updates on those that repaired themselves with transmission hose and fuel injector clamps? 

 

I just bought a "new to me" truck (2019 LT 5.3 L)and discovered the same issue.  I don't want to do the factory replacement because I don't want the same thing to happen again and want to fix it better.

 

Also, this seems like a silly question, but did you need to drain the oil before making this repair?  (or perhaps all the oil is down in the pan when the engine is not running?)

Posted

 You don't need to drain the oil from the engine, only what is in the hoses. I replaced mine with OEM hoses.

  • 9 months later...
Posted

Is the factory hard line just ahead of the rubber sections truly 1/2” OD?

 

I am considering using a 1/2” compression to 1/2” barb fittings with 1/2” oil cooler hose but if that factory aluminum line is metric it likely won’t work……

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...