Jump to content

DIY Oil Cooler Line Replacement

Tx_Bowtie
 Share

Recommended Posts

AJMBLAZER Enthusiast

AJMBLAZER

Posted
Posted
51 minutes ago, valric said:

 

 

The connector/Sensor  has this tab that you push up on and it will allow you to pull off...

1000007138 (1).jpg

Yeah, I could not get it to pull off.

1 hour ago, Bush Bandit said:

I didn't think of using those. I may go that route. That paired with transmission hose should hopefully get me through the life of the truck. I'm planning on doing this with everything mounted and not removing the original lines since the only leak is at the crimp 

If you had a really steady hand and a compact cutting tool you could maybe do it. The engine side especially would be hard to get to. 

  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

RWTJR
RWTJR

Both Dealerships should have known better and the 'we'll try' story is dealership BS. If a dealership has a question about coverage of a clearly diagnosed problem (obvious leaking engine oil lines), t

Tx_Bowtie
Tx_Bowtie

My truck had the oil cooler lines fail at 44,****** mi, luckily i found the drops in the driveway before it was catastrophic.  The dealer said not under power train warranty due to "not a moving part"

Tx_Bowtie
Tx_Bowtie

This is the path of the lines, between the motor mounts, engine, and cross member.    It is a Chinese puzzle to get them out.  I found that if you remove the stud that holds the line t

Posted Images

relevante Enthusiast

relevante

Posted
Posted
31 minutes ago, AJMBLAZER said:

Yeah, I could not get it to pull off.

If you had a really steady hand and a compact cutting tool you could maybe do it. The engine side especially would be hard to get to. 

I turned it a half a turn to get it facing out and then I think I used a pair of pliers or something on it. Definitely wasn't happening for me without getting it turned to where I could see it though.

2019custombossman New Member

2019custombossman

Posted
Posted

replacing the oil cooling lines on my 2019 chevy custom trail boss. seems like the top connection between the line and the cooler itself will not come out due to the fuse box in the way. has anyone else have this issue. would I need to take the fuse box completely out?

relevante Enthusiast

relevante

Posted
Posted (edited)
8 minutes ago, 2019custombossman said:

replacing the oil cooling lines on my 2019 chevy custom trail boss. seems like the top connection between the line and the cooler itself will not come out due to the fuse box in the way. has anyone else have this issue. would I need to take the fuse box completely out?

 

I couldn't figure out any other way. Had to take it loose and move it out of the way. Which is worse because the bolt(s) that hold it go from inside the box out, so you also have to disassemble the box to get to them. It's really not that bad but it was pretty annoying to figure that out.

Edited by relevante
AJMBLAZER Enthusiast

AJMBLAZER

Posted
Posted

I swore and pulled after taking the whole fitting out of the radiator.  Not saying it was the best method but it cleared on my truck by about a millimeter after that.

 

When reinstalling I put the fitting on the line, snaked it up in the hole, got the fitting threaded back in and tightened, and then reinstalled the line and the clip.

valric Enthusiast

valric

Posted
Posted

The male part that slips into the Radiator  actually swivels, I was able to pry a little an the fuse box and swivel the fitting at the same time and that gave me the room I needed to pull out. This also helps you pull it out from below by moving it around so it doesn't snag on everything and when working the new one  back in from below...It worked for me without removing the fuse box.1000007700.thumb.jpg.443abb21f48779e29a8653b89fdb70fb.jpg1000007701.thumb.jpg.03a4b60e0f42f5f78e518c2654220acd.jpg1000007701.thumb.jpg.03a4b60e0f42f5f78e518c2654220acd.jpg

Bush Bandit Enthusiast

Bush Bandit

Posted
Posted

I was able to repair mine without removing them. A knockoff Dremel with a flexible shaft and small cutoff wheel did it quickly. 

 

Went with 3/8 transmission hose and fuel injector clamps. Took 45 minutes tops and no issues 

  • Thanks 1
  • 5 weeks later...
bmh95 New Member

bmh95

Posted
Posted
On 3/22/2024 at 3:15 PM, Bush Bandit said:

I was able to repair mine without removing them. A knockoff Dremel with a flexible shaft and small cutoff wheel did it quickly. 

 

Went with 3/8 transmission hose and fuel injector clamps. Took 45 minutes tops and no issues 

I saw references to 3/8” and also 1/2” injector hose. You used 3/8”?  I have a 2016 5.3l. 
 

Similarly, I see reference to -6 and -8 AN fittings. Just trying to get a sense before I start cutting into line this week. 
 

I also plan to leave the hard lines on the truck and use the flexible dremel and cutoff wheel. 

Bush Bandit Enthusiast

Bush Bandit

Posted
Posted
On 4/21/2024 at 8:11 PM, bmh95 said:

I saw references to 3/8” and also 1/2” injector hose. You used 3/8”?  I have a 2016 5.3l. 
 

Similarly, I see reference to -6 and -8 AN fittings. Just trying to get a sense before I start cutting into line this week. 
 

I also plan to leave the hard lines on the truck and use the flexible dremel and cutoff wheel. 

 

I used 3/8 transmission line (holds up better than fuel line)

  • 10 months later...
Ken A New Member

Ken A

Posted
Posted

any updates on those that repaired themselves with transmission hose and fuel injector clamps? 

 

I just bought a "new to me" truck (2019 LT 5.3 L)and discovered the same issue.  I don't want to do the factory replacement because I don't want the same thing to happen again and want to fix it better.

 

Also, this seems like a silly question, but did you need to drain the oil before making this repair?  (or perhaps all the oil is down in the pan when the engine is not running?)

valric Enthusiast

valric

Posted
Posted

 You don't need to drain the oil from the engine, only what is in the hoses. I replaced mine with OEM hoses.

  • 9 months later...
DHBWA Enthusiast

DHBWA

Posted
Posted

Is the factory hard line just ahead of the rubber sections truly 1/2” OD?

 

I am considering using a 1/2” compression to 1/2” barb fittings with 1/2” oil cooler hose but if that factory aluminum line is metric it likely won’t work……

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,982
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    nolankd
    Newest Member
    nolankd
    Joined

  • Who's Online   2 Members, 1 Anonymous, 438 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Black02Silverado
      New Retail Account Promo

      By Black02Silverado · Posted

      For a limited time, retail accounts receive a free fender cover (G2803) with their order of $750 or more when they use code FENDER926 at checkout. The promotion runs through Sept. 8, 2026. Own a business and want to apply for a retail account?  Apply here. https://www.amsoil.com/business-opportunities/sell-in-your-store/?zo=521390  
    • Chuck FB
      Correct way to service 2024 l8t allison trans?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Thanks for that, yes just because I could I measured what came out just to give me some guidance although I already knew to expect it to take at least 9.5 to just throwing in the whole 10 quarts off the shot and doing a one and done heat cycle to drop out the excess to get to the proper level. I don't recall exactly now what I measured that came out but was less than I put back in, I knew I spilled some on the garage floor but the main part was that I was thrilled in the discovery I did not have to touch my exhaust to flex it down. The gasket manipulating is a pain of course to create that clearance to take the pan out and put back in but its all very doable if one is careful and not forcing the gasket to flex too much. From the quote I got at a transmission shop of 900.00 here in Canada ( never asked at the dealer what they charge ) I saved 700.00 doing it myself after paying for the supplies so that to me paid very good wages !, and I knew what fluid was put in and that I had changed the filter and that the level is correct without any doubts. 
    • bojanglespa
      2016 Sierra 1500 6.2L lifter Failure 🤨

      By bojanglespa · Posted

      I do have one of the AFM diasable box, using it for last 1.5 years.
    • Mellowth
      Tonneau cover and rack combo

      By Mellowth · Posted

      I found a setup that lets me open the cover partway with racks installed, using side-rail-mounted systems for easy access.
    • Chuck FB
      first oil change - 2026 2500HD gas

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Typically its said and I agree so far that the engine oil drain plug oring is not required to be changed out unless you see some damage happening to the oring as apparently the oring lasts well. The dealer I have been getting a few parts from never even stocked the oring but instead stocked the whole drain plug that comes with a new oring which for the dealer is easier because they just throw in a new drain plug if there was any question about damage on it as well and charge the customer accordingly but again only if it is needed.    Also a hint about the drain plug oring to help it last vs a risk of causing damage to it, after its been removed and wiped off or washed off ( that is a whole other topic about some solvents damaging orings because some solvent types do ) to make sure to relube the oring with a bit of new oil so that it won't "grip" on the sealing surface of the pan and needlessly stress out the oring. Its no different than putting some oil on the sealing ring of the engine oil filter. So I just grabbed a new drain plug to have on hand although more recently bought just the oring as well but as its special it costs half the price of the drain plug ... !   Since you mentioned the hate to be empty handed theme, I am not sure what you have in the way of filter removal tools as I like using the exact sized for the filter steel 1" wide band with side to side swivel handle filter removal tool, and it can be used to snug up the filter without risk of damaging a filter as well ( its probably a lisle brand I have ). The drain plug hex size is 15mm and I always like using a 6 point socket if I have a choice and with this truck I've been using just a 3/8 ratchet that has a fairly long handle. Do you have a funnel that will work to pour oil in as that is definitely the short coming bastard part about the design with that fill port on the valve cover on such an angle that no normal funnel will even work. There are adapters and things on the market that will set into or screw into that fill port, I didn't want to deal with US shipping as that is all I was seeing at the time so caved and bought a Lisle brand multi vehicle fit adapter funnel kit and it really works well but there are much less expensive adapters out there that work in conjunction with an off the shelf funnel that would do the job also. Now that I have it, I like how it works and works so slick with the shape of the Amsoil 1 quart containers I have now switched over to. Whatever you do, have a funnel system of some sort as you will be swearing if you dropped the oil and then realize you have nothing to properly pour new oil in without spilling it all over the engine !.     Other comments, quite a bit of oil flows out down the filter when its cracked loose due to the housing above the filter so let it dribble down the filter until it slacks off flow and then remove the filter to create less possible mess. It seems these engines can sit for quite a while and drip and if you have time let it sit there and drip out of the engine as much as it wants. Also a good time to grease the 9 zerks on the front end, that's my typical practice anyway to grease the suspension and steering each time I change the oil. And remember to reset the oil change minder ( not something I am used to doing with older vehicles and equipment ). 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...