3.0 Duramax vs. 5.3 with DFM

[TRKLGND]

On 11/6/2021 at 7:20 AM, Big Lew said:

I'm just starting to do some research and build my truck. I just wanted to thank everyone for the info provided here on this site.

My wife and I wish to do a lot of traveling and I'm leaning towards the 3.0

One question....it seems we always go through a period where gas is so difficult to get, is it the same with diesel? I would think

that the 18 wheelers would have priority with their hauling and keeping America open, so is there ever an issue with obtaining

diesel fuel during these times? 

 

Where do you live that gasoline is difficult to get?

[T-Town-Z]

I'm considering a 2022 "Limited" Silverado with the diesel engine.   I have not really read of any issues with it.  Have I overlooked something, or has this engine just been that ultra reliable so far ?

Does it have any faults ? 

[redwngr]

Some early ones had a crankshaft seal that could be leak -- but there haven't been any recently posted about, so it appears the ones that were going to fail have already done so.

 

There have been some with an 'extended crank / no-start' condition.

They always seemed to start 2nd crank.  There were a couple mechanical things they thought it might have been -- but some with those issues 'corrected' still had the condition.

In October there was an update to programming.

Those with that update seem to have had the condition eliminated.

 

And lots have never had the crank/no-start.  Mine has never done it. A little over a year and a little over 16,000 miles. 

 

Warms up quick

Great mileage (mine is 25+ doing the same job that resulted in 20+/- 0.5 on a 15 and a 16 (one 5.3 one 6.2, both 8 speed 4wd standard box)

10 speed 3.0 work together very nicely. 

 

If I need a new truck tomorrow, it will be another 3.0.

Trying to convince my wife to trade her Acadia for a 3.0 Yukon....

[Transient]

6 hours ago, redwngr said:

Some early ones had a crankshaft seal that could be leak -- but there haven't been any recently posted about, so it appears the ones that were going to fail have already done so.

 

There have been some with an 'extended crank / no-start' condition.

They always seemed to start 2nd crank.  There were a couple mechanical things they thought it might have been -- but some with those issues 'corrected' still had the condition.

In October there was an update to programming.

Those with that update seem to have had the condition eliminated.

 

And lots have never had the crank/no-start.  Mine has never done it. A little over a year and a little over 16,000 miles. 

 

Warms up quick

Great mileage (mine is 25+ doing the same job that resulted in 20+/- 0.5 on a 15 and a 16 (one 5.3 one 6.2, both 8 speed 4wd standard box)

10 speed 3.0 work together very nicely. 

 

If I need a new truck tomorrow, it will be another 3.0.

Trying to convince my wife to trade her Acadia for a 3.0 Yukon....

If my wife parts with her 2017 Traverse I will be doing the same thing.  If something happened to my current truck where I needed to replace it, 3.0 it will be.  I love everything about the 6.2, but the gas bill. 

[T-Town-Z]

I really have not read anything bad about the baby duramax, but recall something on-line, that the engine needs removed or something major, to change a belt or chain after 100k miles..... ???

I'd like to read or see more about that.

[redwngr]

46 minutes ago, T-Town-Z said:

I really have not read anything bad about the baby duramax, but recall something on-line, that the engine needs removed or something major, to change a belt or chain after 100k miles..... ???

I'd like to read or see more about that.

It's a belt for the oil pump, and it's 150,000 miles. 

 

Seems to be a lot of speculation about what is needed to change.

Most seem to think the engine stays and the trans gets moved back or removed.

Not a nice job in the driveway, but with the right vehicle lift and transmission lift....?

 

 

[YZ-Dave]

A lot of mis-information on the whole oil pump belt thing. It doesn't HAVE to be changed at 150k - the engine itself was designed to have a 150k expected life cycle, which means they targeted that mileage before the eying needed opened up. GM recommends to replace the belt at 150k, but it can run much longer.

Best friend runs a dyno at the Milford proving grounds, they have LM2s with simulated 500k miles on the original belts. 

The transmission itself has a expected life cycle of 100k - that doesn't mean that when the odometer rolls 100k you throw on the blinker and put new clutches and bands in it on the side of the road, you run it until it gives you signs there is trouble.

 

[KARNUT]

1 hour ago, YZ-Dave said:

A lot of mis-information on the whole oil pump belt thing. It doesn't HAVE to be changed at 150k - the engine itself was designed to have a 150k expected life cycle, which means they targeted that mileage before the eying needed opened up. GM recommends to replace the belt at 150k, but it can run much longer.

Best friend runs a dyno at the Milford proving grounds, they have LM2s with simulated 500k miles on the original belts. 

The transmission itself has a expected life cycle of 100k - that doesn't mean that when the odometer rolls 100k you throw on the blinker and put new clutches and bands in it on the side of the road, you run it until it gives you signs there is trouble.

 

I’m surprised they admit any life expectancy. I had a 91 Cummins dodge that I pulled equipment with. You couldn’t work it harder. At 100K miles I gave it to a crew for pipeline work. At 200K it became a part running truck for the shop. Then a costumer ask me to help them on a project. I needed to pull a small remote control machine, too heavy for my half ton. After painting adding a new clutch at over 300K back to work it went. The odometer quit working 9 months later it was a parts runner again. A few years later my brother gave it to our shop Forman as a bonus. I could have killed him. Except for a few electrical issues it was flawless. Maybe it was the Amsoil.